Best rotors/pads for stock 2.7T wheels?
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Best rotors/pads for stock 2.7T wheels?
14K miles and I'd be on my 3rd set of front rotors if I was actually dumb enough to go back for more punishment. Ridiculuous for a $45K car to have such a simple problem as this.
Anyway, I'd like to replace my constantly warping rotors with something aftermarket that won't have this problem. Can someone suggest which rotors and pads are best and will work with the 16" stock wheels?
Anyway, I'd like to replace my constantly warping rotors with something aftermarket that won't have this problem. Can someone suggest which rotors and pads are best and will work with the 16" stock wheels?
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Nah. Watch out for some compounds as they are very hard on the rotors. Others have a warm-up cycle
With some compounds, you need to use the brakes/warm them up a time or two before they really bite. I use Ferrodo for the street and Porterfeild at the track.
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Do you have an experience you would like to relate ?
Cross drilled do not last long ( not intended to ). Slotted last much longer. Cryo stabilizes the metal crystal structure. Much like tempering.
I have never heard anyone who has had it done ( for things like track events ) who has felt that it was not worth it. Some vintage race cars have small diameter vintage wheels. The rotors are small and cannot be upgraded without changing the wheels. The newer stickier tire and brake compounds allow the brakes to be more effective at the cost of rotor durability. They use cryo a lot.
I have never heard anyone who has had it done ( for things like track events ) who has felt that it was not worth it. Some vintage race cars have small diameter vintage wheels. The rotors are small and cannot be upgraded without changing the wheels. The newer stickier tire and brake compounds allow the brakes to be more effective at the cost of rotor durability. They use cryo a lot.
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Joined: Jul 2000
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Re: Ming 2.7T, if you're going to Commonwealth talk to Mark the Serv. Mgr. or
to Larry the Service Advisor.
Use my name if you like. I know them well. Looking to play some golf with Mark.
There both nice guys and will work with you.
Audi A6 4.2
Black / Van. Onx.
Stock
Use my name if you like. I know them well. Looking to play some golf with Mark.
There both nice guys and will work with you.
Audi A6 4.2
Black / Van. Onx.
Stock
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Cracked/warped rotors after X number of laps vs non-cracked/warped rotors
The point is to be able to run an event as hard as you want for the whole event without replacing the rotors. Whether that is one weekend or a season is up to you and the car. If you use the really effective pads ( hard on rotors ) and race slicks, the standard rotors are shot in a few sessions. Remember that I am refering to older cars with wheels as small as 13in. The rotors were never intended to deal with the heat that more modern pads and tires can create.
If I were going to wail on my 4000lb car often, I would go with thicker, vented ( already in the fronts for the 2.7t and 4.2 ) and cryo'd rotors. I might even slot it. Heck, it's cheap insurance.
If I were going to wail on my 4000lb car often, I would go with thicker, vented ( already in the fronts for the 2.7t and 4.2 ) and cryo'd rotors. I might even slot it. Heck, it's cheap insurance.
