Folks this is my first posting on Audiworld. A brief intro is in order.

Have had my A6, 2.8 Black for 2 years. Other car is a 2002 BMW 330i (replaced a 87 BMW 325 with 153 K miles).

I used to maintain my 325 myself and would like to do the same for my Audi. After reading the manual here is what I need some inputs/tips (plan to get parts from Audi Dealer):

- Spark Plug Change (removed main cover but not side one to look)
- Microfilter
- Air Filter
- Oil Change (understand that the filter is hard to reach)
Will get dealer to flush AT Fluid (every 4 years) and Brake Fluid (every 2 years)

The Bentley Manual is not out till later in Jan 02 (already pushed out since May 01).

Any place to get procedure on this or any tips/comments/welcome

 

As in "length of warranty lifetime."

 

What's a microfilter?

 

Like an AC filter for your house, except in the car. Can cause the AC not to function if it clogs

 

Ist nicht "ze pollen filter" der proper teminology Herr Dallas? ;-)

 

I thought it was the one in the same?

 

Yes, I ment the pollen filter

 

I have a 97 2.8 12V engine. Similar but not the same animal. I have a spark plug procedure and a rough oil change procedure.

Give me an email and I will send them out. All I want is feedback on where the procedure is wrong.

Air Filter - Easy

Oil change - Use a quarter (25cents) to undo the engine bottom shield, especially in the wheel wheels (if that works for '98 A6s).

Dealer will tell you AT fluid is lifetime.

Brake Fluid - recommend you get a Motive Bleeder and fluid at <a href="http://www.germanautoparts.com">German Auto Parts</a>

<img src="http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/parts/BB1.jpg">

You don't need racing fluid, blue fluid won't help that much to tell if the brakes are bleed and no way you want silicon based fluid (DOT 5). Check your manual because I'm assuming you need DOT 4 fluid.

You need about 2 cups per brake circuit, bleed order is rear passenger first, rear driver second, front passenger third and front driver last. I used 2 liters for my job, divide by four for quantity per circuit. They are essentially equal, i.e. you won't be able to measure the difference.

I get my oil filters at <a href="http://www.autohausaz.com">Autohausaz</a>. Some people prefer <a href="http://www.bimmerparts.com">Bimmerparts</a>, I don't for minor reasons. Another place is <a href="http://www.rapidparts.com">Rapidparts</a>. I haven't tried them yet but most people like them.

Get a Mahn or Mahle oil filter with the "extended wear media". I don't like Bosch becaue they don't cost enough, that's right. I don't like Fram either.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12414/of_side.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12414/of_top.jpg">

Get some anti-seize for your new spark plugs. Ask the NAPA guy which kind. Buy NGK plugs, they seem to work the best. Bosch is OK for most but some don't like them, everybody has good luck with NGKs that I know of.

I think you may have forgotten the fuel filter, I have a procedure for that too.

The coolant is gonna be fun. You need to locate the two breather vents and the drain plug in the block.....or locate at least one vent and cover the alternator with plastic and pull the lower radiator hose.

During the antifreeze flush you'll need 1 gallon of Audi/VW red and 1 gallon of DI water. You can get the DI water at the grocery store next to the bottled water. It says "Good for irons, car batteries, etc." on the label. Cost about $1 per gallon. I filled and drained my system 3 or 4 times with just DI water to get all the crap out. Again check your manual for capacity.

Now here's the part you are going to hate. It's considered "common wisdom" at 60,000 to change the water pump, timing belt, tensioners, timing and serpentine belts and some other parts...like the thermostat. I wouldn't even try it without a manual. For the 12V engines the recommended interval for a timing belt change is 90,000 miles. Before that happens the water pump (which is driven by the timing belt) usually fails and sometimes takes the timing belt with it. I'm sure you know about bent valves. Your engine may be differant. You may want to put off a coolant flush if you are going to do the water pump and thermostat in the near future.

If you really want your AT fluid flushed you can just drain it and have the car flat-bedded to a dealer. Cost to refill the transmission at a dealer is about $400.

No sit down and grab your manhood, take a deep breath and chant "I love my Audi, I love Audi"

 

- Timing belt & tensioner
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Serpentine belt
- Coolant flush
- Fuel filter