Rear End Jumping Out On Corners
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Rear End Jumping Out On Corners
Car just clocked 67K. 03 2.7t TIP(owned it since 38k). I love driving it, but a problem (that seemed to get worse with the GS D3's @ 38PSI) is the rear end jumping out a bit if I hit a bump mid-corner.
I'm not talking about enough to scare, or cause you to perform any kind of corrections. Went out and checked the shocks today, and they seem to rebound very firmly, and only once.
I presume this is a function of the stiffer tires/pressure ect. Its not nearly as bad on the winter tires or the stock P6's.
I am thinking of replacing the shocks soon anyway, but was curious if this was in-fact a symptom or something to be expected with a stiffer suspension/tires/ect.
My friend told me his SCCA car does the same thing, but he has road road bilsteins/heavily lowered. I'm just on the stock /sport suspension.
I'm not talking about enough to scare, or cause you to perform any kind of corrections. Went out and checked the shocks today, and they seem to rebound very firmly, and only once.
I presume this is a function of the stiffer tires/pressure ect. Its not nearly as bad on the winter tires or the stock P6's.
I am thinking of replacing the shocks soon anyway, but was curious if this was in-fact a symptom or something to be expected with a stiffer suspension/tires/ect.
My friend told me his SCCA car does the same thing, but he has road road bilsteins/heavily lowered. I'm just on the stock /sport suspension.
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The firmer the rear end in relation to the front, the more tail happy a car will be. On the other
hand, higher tire inflation tends to keep the tire in the ideal shape for maintaining traction in turns.
Have you played with inflation and reduced pressure by 2 or 4 psi? 38 cold seems rather high to me.
Have you played with inflation and reduced pressure by 2 or 4 psi? 38 cold seems rather high to me.
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Re: The firmer the rear end in relation to the front, the more tail happy a car will be. On the othe
It doesn't seem to make an appreciable difference between 35 to 38.
There is no issue running the tires @ 38, or 42 really. If I'm not mistaken, even the door jamb listed 40psi for heavy loads / high speeds.
I should probably start pricing some new shocks.
There is no issue running the tires @ 38, or 42 really. If I'm not mistaken, even the door jamb listed 40psi for heavy loads / high speeds.
I should probably start pricing some new shocks.
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While there is usually no issue with running the tires up to the max suggested on the sidewall
it will effect handling on the limit. Every model tire has it's sweet spot for even wear and predictable handling. If you search the forum, you'll see folks running between 32 and 38psi. Use the search function and look for "tire pressure recommended" on this forum.
If you aren't noticing any difference by playing with pressures, then it is probably the soft sidewalls for which those tires are noted by some on heavier cars. Since that is the only thing you have recently changed, that is the logical conclusion. Of course with a stock suspernsion at 67K miles on a heavy car, you will be experiencing some wear. Should show up first as excessive body motion while driving.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/444144.phtml">one such thread</a></li></ul>
If you aren't noticing any difference by playing with pressures, then it is probably the soft sidewalls for which those tires are noted by some on heavier cars. Since that is the only thing you have recently changed, that is the logical conclusion. Of course with a stock suspernsion at 67K miles on a heavy car, you will be experiencing some wear. Should show up first as excessive body motion while driving.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/444144.phtml">one such thread</a></li></ul>
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Rear tire inflation pressure should depend on how the tire is actually riding - the contact patch.
You can tell this by looking at the wear on the tread and how the shoulder of the tire is wearing. One easy trick is to draw a chalk line perpendicular to the rolling axis of the tire - across the tread and up onto the sidewall.
You then go drive on a good test section of road and see how much of the chalk line is worn off. Adjust the tire pressure and re-chalk and do it again until optimum is reached. If you are mostly driving by yourself you may need only 30 psi or even less for optimal grip on the rear - BUT be careful if you then load the car because the rears will require more pressure to handle the load. All this assumes that the suspension is in good condition. The inflation sticker is recommended average for all conditions and is likely optimal for no one condition. Don't mess too much with inflation if you are not willing to adjust and check the pressure quite often, though.
You then go drive on a good test section of road and see how much of the chalk line is worn off. Adjust the tire pressure and re-chalk and do it again until optimum is reached. If you are mostly driving by yourself you may need only 30 psi or even less for optimal grip on the rear - BUT be careful if you then load the car because the rears will require more pressure to handle the load. All this assumes that the suspension is in good condition. The inflation sticker is recommended average for all conditions and is likely optimal for no one condition. Don't mess too much with inflation if you are not willing to adjust and check the pressure quite often, though.
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