A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

Fair price for new alternator?

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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 07:58 AM
  #1  
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Default Fair price for new alternator?

Unfortunately for me, the quickest and safest way to get my electrical problem diagnosed is to take it to the dealer and pay the $119 diagnostic fee. I'm quite sure it's just a bad cable, but want to be prepared if they tell me somehow it's internal to the alternator. They say the alternator itself is about $500, but didn't get back to me on the labor; it's a '99 A6 Avant Quattro (30v 2.8); anyone know what a good indy, or even a "good dealer" would charge?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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AutohausAZ has them from 200-340. Labor, essentially a TB job. You have to remove the TB to get it
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Default You have to remove the TB to get to the alternator on V6 models?

If so, that sucks. On my 4.2, it's mounted out in the open on the passenger's side of the engine.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Default What exactly is the problem? Your alternator could be a Valeo or a Bosch.

Wiring problems are pretty rare. If the alternator isn't charging, the bushes are probably worn out. The easiest thing to do is to replace the alternator.

The Valeo or the Bosch will work, but they have different pulleys on the front. If the alternator you buy has a pulley on it, no problem. But if you have to reuse your existing pulley, the alternator needs to match the unit you have now. Be careful what you buy. The dealer stuff is stupidly expensive, but the cheapo Autozone stuff is garbage (STFA on the B5 forum). I bought an aftermarket unit for $200 that has worked for 50k+ miles.

You will need to put the nose into service position, but you will not need to remove the timing belt. However, since there is some labor overlap, consider doing a complete belt service if you are close to a timing belt change.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Default Re: What exactly is the problem? Your alternator could be a Denso or a Bosch.

Thanks for the advice. The problem is that any time I brake hard going downhill, some connection seems to be broken and the car stops immediately, with the lights on, just no power to the engine. So I suspect some faulty wiring somewhere, but it's kind of odd; the problem first surfaced as my battery not charging, eventually draining to where it wouldn't start the car. But the voltage meter looked good, so I replaced the battery (I'd had a power amp that was constantly trickling off the battery and thought that might be why the 3-year-old battery died...). The new battery seems to be charging, but now this oddity with the car cutting out when I generate enough forward G's (I can see the voltage meter dipping toward 12 when I brake hard; it's usually sitting a little above or a tiny bit below the 14...). An intermittent connection might explain all, so I'm going to have them look for that, but wanted to get some parameters on prices if I'm wrong.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:06 AM
  #6  
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Default Valeo or Bosch

<ul><li><a href="http://www.autopartsworld.com/1999_audi_a6-quattro-v6-30v_alternator_parts.html">http://www.autopartsworld.com/1999_audi_a6-quattro-v6-30v_alternator_parts.html</a</li></ul>
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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Doh! Right. Valeo, not Denso! &lt;edits post&gt;
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Default Weird. Does not sound like an altenator.

Is it possible that you see the volt meter dropping because the engine is stalling? As the engine stalls, voltage will drop to battery level.

What codes are you finding in the ECU? Have you tried a new ignition switch?

What happens if you left foot brake and use your right foot to try to hold the revs up?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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No. Service position needed, but belt and covers can stay on.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Labor for swapping the alt. is about a 7/10 on the PITA scale...maybe he included said labor(?)
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