After reading several reviews and a handful of research, I am thinking of ordering the FSD's and the H-Sport sways.

A couple of the reviews noted that Koni didn't include a "rear spring mount". I wanted to get clarification on this so I can order it at the same time/ be prepared. I did some searching, but couldn't find any relevant info.

TIA,

Shawn

 

If you give me a couple weeks to get 'em off the car I'll make you a good deal on a set of one-week-used FSDs.

In my S6 I've basically traded 35% too much damping with the stock shocks for 15% too little with the FSDs. They're really close, and the ride quality is great, but they don't have quite enough low-velocity damping to control the S6 springs. They'd likely be a much better match for a non-S6 C5.

I called Koni about revalving and they're not set up to revalve the FSDs.

So it's been an interesting experiment, but they're not the solution I'm after.

As for the rear spring mount, yes they do include one, but it's not shaped like the stocker which is what had me confused.

 

come in october

 

come up with the damping percentage figures, relative to critical?
You must be talking about rebound damping? Is your S6 spring rate stock? I highly doubt that the stock spring rate would be 35% over damped with stock shocks.

 

No, no adjustment on the FSDs. I didn't like mine, underdamped even with stock non-sport springs.

 

The stock S6 shocks are rock-hard and generate a fair amount of unpleasant NVH over broken pavement. And since this country (or at least many of the larger states thereof, like the PDRC in which I reside) have utterly forgotten how to do infrastructure, even brand-new Caltrans pavement e.g. the 101 repave tends to be full of ripples and waves, this matters a lot.

When one considers what one has to put up with as so-called 'pavement' these days, one starts to think of Land Cruisers as a really good idea.

Another problem with the stock shock valving (in addition to the buckboard ride) is that they prevent the rear suspension from doing much suspending, the rear wants to hop and bop around over ruts and bumps in corners a little like a stick-axle Mustang. In the couple eight-tenths squirts I've managed this week the FSDs handle that situation a lot better, they let the rear suspension work.

At higher speeds the FSDs seem to work well, and at residential-street speeds low-frequency ride motions don't have enough force to confuse them. But they're just a little too floaty in the 35-65mph range for me to live with 'em.

I'll probably swap the stock fronts back in for now, drive it that way for a few days and see how it feels, then decide whether I want to pull the rears right away.

Speaking of which - why does it seem to be impossible to get the inner pivot bolt for the front suspension front lower arm (the one that carries the spring-strut) all the way out? It'd make it a whole lot easier to change shocks if you could just drop the INNER end of the arm. Something I'm missing here?

I'll have to take a little time to consider other options...

 

I'd very much be interested in that. *empties cart @ PUREMS*


Not sure if this board has a PM/Message system, but feel free to email me @

sshawnj@gmail.com

When you are ready.

Thanks!

 

That 101 repave is the worst job I ever saw. That's out taxes they're wasting.

 

...condemn it, close it, and tear it up immediately.

You may pay ridiculous amounts of money for fuel over there, but you do at least see where the money goes.

 

Will drop you a note offline.