I'm dangerously close to the 90,000 mile mark in my 2000 A8 and a search for a comprehensive parts list for a 5 valve Timing Belt parts change did not come up. I'm in the office and the Bentley is home, so I'll dig through it tonight, but here is what I have on the list so far:

- Timing belt
- Water pump & gasket
- front lower crank seal
- TB tensioner
- tensioner lever w/roller
- roller right small
- Pentosin Coolant (5 liters)
- not sure if there is another idler bearing to replace as well.
- Harmonic Damper pulley bolt
- Serpentine belt ( are the pulleys due?)


Pretty sure about the following:

- 2 Camshaft seals (using cam shaft holders)
- Oil cooler o-rings and plastic pipe


...and where do I find part numbers for all the other little bits? Are they in the Bentley CD?

I'm also still on the fence about doing the job myself. I suppose tht depends on access to the special tools. I've done my share of engine swaps and wrenching including several V6 and I4 timing belt jobs, but this looks like the most involved one so far. Although the 92 Maxima was memorable...first remove right front tire..nothing good can happen after that.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Brian C.

 

It's been my experience that replacing a front main seal that isn't leaking introduces more problems than it solves. There is a good chance that the either the seal or the engine block will be scored or damaged during the removal/press fit installation process.

 

Timing belt rollers: there's also a roller on low on the left side (driver's side in the US) opposite the roller on the tensioner lever. This roller has an eccentric mounting to set the initial belt tension.

Thermostat: they don't last forever, and they do sit behind the timing belt on the 5V engine.

Plastic coolant reservoir: will probably crack before 180,000 miles. Some don't even go to 90,000.

Distilled water: to go with the new coolant.

Electric fan retainer pin: maybe called a rivet in the Audi parts diagram, it's a backup to the electric fan bracket's latch to keep the bracket from rotating in its slots and hence detaching from the radiator. I don't know how to remove it without destroying it.

Press-in wire tie holders for electric fan wires: these were nonreusable on my car, and I had to cut a few to get the electric fan out of the way. The dealership had some nice press-in plastic bases (part number N-906-661-01) with replacement wire ties already in them. These parts are better because they accept standard wire ties the next time you do the job.

Left rear timing belt cover, metal (077 109 098 B on my car at least): You maybe won't need one, but I did. The water pump supports the bottom edge of the rear left timing belt cover. The studs welded to this cover stripped when I put a new water pump on, and seem to be made of too soft a metal. A new cover costs less than $30 -- wish I'd had it before starting. Audi used what looks like blue Loctite on the water pump nuts attached to this cover, so I did too.

With the required tools (www.zelenda.com is one source), attention to the Bentley, and enough time, the job is pretty straightforward. There's enough room in front of the engine once the fans are out of the way. The biggest pain for me is removing and reinstalling the plug in the side of the block for the crankshaft locking pin. Done by feel not sight, unless you find a better way than I used. 8 mm hex key, don't lose the sealing washer, and make sure to really stick your finger in there and positively feel the indentation in the crankshaft before pinning the crankshaft.

Note that while the sequence in the Bentley is correct, some pictures look like they were carried over from the 4V engine, they don't consistently use the same names for the TB rollers and idlers, and I don't think you'll find a torque spec for the little idler between the right cam sprocket and the water pump.

I'd also skip the front crank seal. They don't seem to give much trouble. Then you won't need to remove the harmonic damper.

Tom