I know 7200 is the stock redline, just curious what the fuel-cutoff enforced redline on aftermarket chips is.

Cameron

 

7,100 unless you ask for and pay for a custom race program . . .

 

Do you mean 8,100?

 

You need to build the rest of the engine up to be able to sustain high rpm. Just setting a rev limiter does not mean the car can achieve that let alone use it.

The 1.8t is not an engine that is usable at higher rpm's. It is an engine that wants to live between 2,500 and 6,500 Mine stops pulling the closer it gets to 7,000.

I had a 1.6 Datsun 510 engine with a redline of 8,500. It could pull to 9.700 but I put the limiter on it to make it last longer. It pulled for 30 minutes at that speed. The Audi 1.8t is not made like that.

 

turbos that are too small or the chip program not maintinaing boost until redline? the TT will be my next car but I would really like to see a chip that will hold boost right up to 7000 rpms.

 

Chips can increase the flow into the power plant by increasing the output of the Turbo. However, at higher RPM, the increased flow into the car is out of balance with the amount flow out. The stock Turbo has headroom beyond what the stock exhaust can take. Chip and exhaust combination would give you what you what your asking for $1.5k. Bigger Turbo needs bigger intake, fuel reg, injectors, exhaust man, down, cat, and back to be effective. That's about $8k

My $.00002k

 

I had one of them, rusty old thing. But a nice car with independent rear suspension and all. Mine was a 72 that I inherited from a professor at school - it really was ready to die body wise but the mechanics were still tough...

 

Regardless of how far the engine WILL rev..at least one time, by going far past it's power peak area you are losing power and overstressing the moving parts big time.

Intuitively we think of more revs as more power, which is only correct up to a point. IMO, one of the biggest draws of the Honda S2000 is it's 8900 rpm limit. While it has 240hp @ 8300, it's MAX torque is 153 @ 7500. "Rowing it around with the gear lever." is the way to go fast in an S2000.
That it weighs about 500 lbs less than a TTR helps, too!

As stong as the TT's 1.8 engine is, you can break it if you regularly exceed about 7000, and as Larry said...there's no reason to do so.

 

If you want to get a 1.8t engine to spin as freely at 8,000 as it does at 6,000 would take much more than some add-on parts . . .

First of all I don't think any of the KKK turbos are capable of that sort of air flow. The engine would grenade if you even tried it.

You would need to replace the pistons, valves, cams, crank, valve guides and every other part within the engine. Remove the external comfort items. The head would need to be ported, poolished, flowed. The bottom end would need to get beefed up to take that sort of speed. I am not even talking about increasing the power, just putting in lighter stock sized part! Going to a 2.0 might help, but not necessarily. Bringing the engine down to a 1.6 might allow it to rev higher but you will not produce as much hp/torque without also creating a grenade.

This engine does not seem to want to rev past 6,500 no matter how you might build it up with add-ons. I have yet to hear about a GT-25 1.8t from APR, even their Stage III+ being able to rev past 7,000. That turbo is light years ahead of the KKK turbos. Scott Smith who has the A4 on the APR coverpage runs in the Northeast and I have seen that car run. He has done all sorts of engine work to his car and he does not run past 7,000. His power peak as far as I know is below 6,500.

It would take well over $10,000 to build up a full-on race engine out of the 1.8t and you still would not be able to get it to rev above 7,000 <b>and</b> produce enough power to justify the expense!

You would be better off putting in different gears into the transmission to allow yourself to get as close as possible to 50mph in 1st gear and then spread the rest of the gears out accordingly. That would greatly improve the usefulness of the engine for a track as well as the street.

 

taking the motor down to a 1.6 in order to help rev...

Your reference to lightening parts and replacing stock items were on the mark, but the real key to making this motor free rev has nothing to do with combustion chamber size.

The way to build a free revving motor is to lighten and MORE IMPORTANTLY blueprint and balance the crank, rods etc. The other binding factor of todays motors is the fact that most use hydraulic lifters which will quickly lose their ability to keep up with the valves, causing valve float.

My best friend owns a Scirroco 16V turbo that was built from the ground up as a turbo motor. It puts 387hp to the wheels and it revs like an MFer due to nothing more than being balanced and blueprinted and replacing the hydraulic lifter head with a solid lifter. He currently has the limiter set at 9000rpm's....and this is on a VW..

Anyway, just wanted to add a little info to your post