Well, I finally got my fiberglass project underway by first making these 2 practice pieces.. The process wasn't too difficult b.c I have a book that lays out all the steps (Competition Car Composites).. Here is how I did it in case anyone was wondering..
Step 1.. Clean surface
Step 2.. Using a paint brush apply the release onto surface being used and let dry
Step 3.. Using a paint brush apply a 1/64" layer of Gel coat (with catalyst) and let dry until tacky
Step 4.. Using a paint brush apply a generous layer of Resin (with catalyst) on top of the tacky Gel Coat
Step 5.. Place a layer of Fiber Glass on the Resin and make sure to let about 1/32" of the material to hang off of the surface
Step 6.. Using the paint brush apply resin onto the Fiber Glass in an up down motion and using the same technique apply 3 more layers and let dry over night..
Step 7.. Once the resin and fiberglass has completely hardened, remove the piece..
Im pretty happy with the way things came out, but before I start building anything for the project I want to make some reinforced pieces and try adding layers to the dried piece.. What I learned during this process is that I need to buy this roller type tool so I don't get more air bubbles, working inside the basement is a bad idea (opening the windows & door, and having fan didn't help a whole lot), and the first step should be to cut the fiberglass pieces.. I also need to go out and buy a timer, and next time I need to add more of the release agent.. Later today I am going make a reinforced piece, and also add some layers onto the 1 layer piece I made last night, and depending on how it comes I would like to start building my box tomorrow...
This is a 3 layer piece which I still have to trim.. The air bubbles should not be there, but that little roller like tool should help that
<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_003.jpg">

The piece on the left is 3 layers thick and the piece on the right is the 1 layer thick(very flexible)
<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_004.jpg">

<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_005.jpg">

<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_006.jpg">

<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_007.jpg">

In case anyone was wondering the whole reason I started doing this was because eventually I would like to make carbon fiber and kevlar parts but because carbon fiber is soo expensive ($55-$60 a yard) I figured Id play with the cheap stuff first..

 

try a squeegee instead of a roller.

 

Im going to pick up some sand paper and we'll see how well that takes care of the corners..
<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_001.jpg">


<IMG src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25882/fiber_glass_3.29.02_002.jpg">

 

Ah, cool.. thanks.. Any other suggestions or tips??

 

no, not an expert but many friends make surfboards/sailboards.

 

you will want to do a resin coat on the edges and wet sand smooth for final touch.

 

Test piece looks decent. Also try:
- Playing with different weight cloths (usually sold by the Ounce). This will increase part strength and thickness immediately. The photos look like you used Fiber Mat which is also a stuctural backing material. Cloth is woven and a little trickier to work with on complex curves. Work fast but be patient.
- Don't be tempted to over-catalyze for a quicker cure time. This is a Thermoset material, and creating a "hot batch" will weaken the material's properties when fully cured (it tends to become more brittle).
- SAND! If applying multiple coats or laminating, sand aggresively between coats. This sets up a "tooth" for the next layer / coat to "bite" onto. 100 Grits good.
- VENTILATE! If you have a waterheater in your basement (or any other appliances with a pilot-light), build somewhere else - or make sure their off! Also wear a carbon filtered mask to avoid loss of brain cells, consciousness, and toxin accumulation in your liver.
- And remember: The better your mold surface finish, the less finish work after de-mold.
Gutte Luck.

 

John's a beach bum =)

 

:-0

 

Volume manufacturers use vinyl ester resins. They are cheaper. But epoxy resins are easier to work with and superior in most ways including strength and toxicity (you can really mess yourself up breathing vinyl ester resin fumes).

There a several good makers. The original and most popular is West System (www.westsystem.com). They make very easy to use, well packaged products and have excellent telephone tech support geared for both amateur and professional users. The boat industry wouldn't be the same without WestSystem.