Just had the car in for service on thursday because the car keeps dying. It has happened several times where under hard accel., the car powers off and the ESP, EPC light and check engine light come on, all power is shut off. Then after a few seconds the car comes back to life and seems no worse for the wear. It's very scary when it happens while merging into traffic... The only DTC is the low voltage error.

This morning, while driving along in third gear about 1/4 mile from my house, the thing just dies. Same symptoms as before except not under accel. Then it goes into limp mode and won't start when I turn it off. After a few tries, it starts and I go home and plug in the computer. Here's what I got:

9 DTC's Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Inj. System: Incorrect Flow Detected
35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
35-10 - - - Intermittent
17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal
35-10 - - - Intermittent
17877 - EVAP Canister Solenoid Valve 2 (N115): Open Circuit
35-10 - - - Intermittent
18038 - Throttle Position Sensor (G79): Signal too Low
35-10 - - - Intermittent
17580 - Throttle Actuation Pot #2 (G188): Signal too Small
35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Throttle Actuation Pot (G187): Signal too Small
35-00 - -
17987 - Throttle Body Controller (J338): Adpatation Not Started
35-10 - - - Intermittent

It doesn't look pretty. Could this be the cluster problem that seems to be fairly common? Any ideas before I take ANOTHER day off work to drive 90 miles to the nearest dealer so they can tell me they can't duplicate the problem and they couldn't find anything wrong?

 

Looks like a loose connection to me...

M,

 

i'll double check the connection, but the original problem has happened with both stock and APR chip...

 

And a loose connection does look like a suspect imho,

M,

 

any ideas on the problem that the dealer couldn't figure out that was only generating the low voltage error? I don't think they tried very hard to figure it out...
Could it be possible that whenever ESP kicks in, the whole car would lose power? Seems to happen more often when accelerating hard from a stop, turning onto the highway, maybe when the inside wheels are slipping?

 

than when I replace the stock chip back into the ECU.