TT (Mk1) Discussion Discussion forum for the Mk1 Audi TT Coupe & Roadster produced from 2000-2006

Few stereo questions for Bose owners...

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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 06:49 PM
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Default Few stereo questions for Bose owners...

My understanding is that if you want to replace your head unit you will need to rewire all the speakers with that, correct? I would need to run new lines from every speaker into the new head unit. Does that also mean I would need a new amp, or would the amp in a head unit going to be enough? Would it be better to just replace the speakers, etc now, and will that allow me to install ANY head unit I want at any time? I am not looking for competition, or anything like that, but I want good sound for a good price, and the ability to replace my head unit- for reference I like the Bose, have not had any problems with it yet.
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 06:54 PM
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Default Also if I wanted to replace my speakers, what sizes and how many of each are we talking?

I think I have 2x 5 1/4 up front, 2x 6 3/4 in the back, the center bose channel, and i think that is it. What am I missing?
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 07:07 PM
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Default info.

if its coupe,

front are speakers,
back are 2 subwoofer.

when you buy a new unit, get wiring harness for Audi TT (same as vw, skoda etc). all it is a socket that you can plug into existing audi plug.

do the wiring from that socket (wiring harness) to the new head unit.

get head unit kit - which is a plastic trim to let the aftermarket head unit fit (our bose is slightly wider than aftermarket, hence you will get gaps).

thats it, if you want to upgrade speakers, take out the speaker you want to replace (i.e cut the wries or unplug) add new ones and connect the wires.

there is no need to rewire from head unit to speakers of such sort.

the most anoying part you will find is that, some head units does not fit *easily* into the slot, and the plastic cover (audi install kit) sucks sooo bad that you have to trim it alot.

oh and the last part is that get head unit that you can put rear speakers as sub woofer - (cause ours is sub woofer) or you will get lots of clipping sound -

it took me 4 hours, 40 min to do the wiring only to realize that some problems where there with the rear speaker connections, then the rest of the time triming the install kit, and trying to slide the unit in - yes 3 hours and 20min.

ps, the aluminum cover does not close any more cause the new unit i got, sticks out too much. !@#$
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 07:09 PM
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Default i'm not sure how this would work with our bose..but check this out

this box lets an aftermarket HU talk to the bose amps. however, since it's only 4 channel output, there's no provision for a sub amp.

(more ignorance here..you've got a coupe? do the coupes have rear speakers or just subs? if no rear speakers, then the rear preouts of this box could be used for the sub amp, piece of cake...)

i don't know enough about the stock bose wiring to give any more input from here.. don't know if the stock headunit has 3 preouts, or if the subamp gets a preout feed from one of the other amps ... (?)

hth, at least somewhat - this box seems like it would greatly simplify installation. piece of cake if the stock bose sub amp is wired with a pass through. then it's plug n play...<ul><li><a href="http://www.linkmeup.com">http://www.linkmeup.com</a</li></ul>
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 07:20 PM
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Default So I can put in any headunit if I match the two harenesses?

I thought the Bose speakers ran at a diffrent power level. I would keep the factory Bose speakers, I just want to switch headunits.
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 09:27 PM
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Default yes - let me tell you in more detail...

factory wiring goes something like this -

front left and right speaker,
back left and right speaker (does not exist on TT!)
sub woofer left and right (acts as back speakers)
remote amp/antena on/off (turns sub woofer amp on/off)
constant power 12V
accessory power (ignition dependant)
grounding, and negative.
antena line

extra...
cd changer line,
phone line
mute line,
dimming line



this is all on top of my head - but i think i got all the lines.

a good deck unit will have all those lines - but might miss one or two, like dimming, mute, phone etc, and CD changer.

all deck operate on the same lines, so you shouldn't worry.

just read the wiring diagram on the new deck (instruction manual) and then compare it to the list i have above.
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 09:33 PM
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Default btw - if you want to improve your sound...

you need to get a good deck (higher voltage output deck- like 4V gives better sound) with a good sound equilizer.

but ultimatly the bose unit is pretty good unit (despite no equalizer), so you will have to eventually upgrade the speakers (which is not that hard).

depending what you are going for - you might consider getting a 10" sub woofer, or something equivalent to use with your new deck.

oh ya, listen to every sub woofer before you get it - don't think expensiver is better - its not.
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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 11:41 PM
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Default

You have mail, thanks so much!
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Old Aug 25, 2002 | 07:41 AM
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Default Yes, Yes, YES! You are matching line-level outputs from the H/U to the line-level inputs of the amp.

find a H/U that will output 5V at the line-levels, and you will have no problems.
Use this oft-posted schematic to wire into the harness.

<img src="http://home.attbi.com/~ttbipes/jpgs/headunitwiring.jpg">

I wired in a new H/U for a guy in about an hour.
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Old Aug 25, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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Default doors are 6.5, rears are the same I think....

MBQuarts 6.5 units fit *exactly* in the doors.

This URL is wrong. the tweeters in the doors are 1"<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/news/00/01roadster/bose.shtml">Speaker Location and Sizes</a></li></ul>
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