First a thanks to Jeff Bipes on his page for installing a power gasket because it has good steps to follow in getting to the gasket part.

As part of the Dahlback installation, I also installed EVO Shield phenolic spacer and gasket, new 4 bar FPR, installed an oil temp. sensor and wire, and new dipstick tube.

For the Dahlback:
On the left end is a large banjo bolt. This is where the unique moulded hoses fits on the manifold. I found it better to not try to directly connect this banjo bolt to the unique hose for fear of cracking the unique hose. Instead, I installed a 90 degree elbow that points under the "hot" pipe along the left side of the engine. I then connected ~12-16" of hose and looped it back around the front of the left side samco and connected to the banjo fitting, which I had pointed toward the front to the car.

The small fitting on the backside of the manifold has a hollow bolt that connects two hoses, one for the FPR, and one going over to the top of the coilpacks. In my case, the 2nd hose is the one I tee off of for my AWE boost gage. (More on that later). These two hoses are connected to banjo type fittings that slide onto the hollow bolt that fastens to the back of the manifold. My hollow bolt was only drilled to allow one of the banjo bolts to sense pressure/vacuum. KMD tuning overnighted to me the correct bolt, which has 2 rows of holes. Check yours. Kudos to Danny at KMD for his quick response.

On the bottom side of the manifold is a larger connection for another hose. I found that I had to replace the OEM hose on the end and add about 6-8" of new 1/2" hose to reach the fitting on the bottom side of the manifold.

Because the Dahlback manifold sticks forward much more than the stock manifold, that means the throttle body is much more forward. I found the electrical wire would not reach the connection on the throttle body. I had to unclip where all the electrical wires come along the right side of the engine so the connection could be made.

Also, due to the Dahlback size, my Samco hose on the infeed to the manifold is a kinked and restricting flow. This is in part due to me having relocated my DV. I plan to reinstall my Optima battery soon, and at that time I will have to shorten the ends of the samco to make it fit better. I may opt to have a custom stainless pipe made up.

Boost Gage Issue:
When I installed my AWE boost gage, they sent a small plastic tee with a little metal insert in the section going to the boost gage. As part of the manifold install I had to Remove the hoses from this tee and the tee broke. I reinstalled a brass tee. My boost gage is not reading correctly now so I don't know if it is the use of the wrong tee, or something to do with the Dahlback.

I installed a temperature sensor in the top of the filter flange. There was a plug there that required a 5mm socket for removal. Even with the manifold and other stuff out of the way, it was still difficult to remove and replace. You cannot get your hand on the bolt and it requies a universal joint to get at. Jim at Dieselgeek can get you the correct fitting for this port. I attached a connector and wire and will use this for my gauge pod. However, I think this is an excellent spot to be picking up the oil temp.

The Dahlback manifold blocks your dipstick tube. The dipstick tube must be rotated 180 degrees. In that location it will be between runners 2 and 3 and in the area between the fuel rail and the manifold. Mine broke off as I began to work on it. I would suggest just buying one and having it on hand if yours should break in trying to remove and rotate yours. It is part # 06A 103 663B and will cost between $5 and $10 depending upon dealer. The interesting thing about this tube is that it has an inner and outer annulus that slips over the tube on the inside and outside. Since mine broke, then it became the chore of removing the remaining part without getting any down the tube. I nibbled away at the part above the metal tube with channel locks until I got it down to the tube. I then took a large lag bolt and threaded it down into tube grabbing the plastic as it went. I then gave a good jerk and out popped the inside part of the plastic. I then chiseled away the remaining plastic on the outside of the tube. This tube was very brittle. I am amazed they would use something like this and then have some of it sticking inside the tube. Install the new tube 180 degrees opposite the OEM way. You will need to push down pretty firmly to get it finally seat. This took awhile since I was afraid I would break another tube, but it finally popped in.

Installation of the 4 bar FPR. I pushed and pushed and still could not get it to seat enough for me to slip the retaining clip end. The easy solution was to put a big c-clamp on it and slowly crank down until it slides down enough to get the retaining clip in.

Took car for a ride and no CEL's, although I did have a lurking Lean Code that I found before I had recranked the car.

Also, make sure you have lots of hose clamps for small hoses.

Another suggestion: Have plenty of tape on hand. You will need to stick bolts down into places you cannot afford to let have them drop.

Also, before removing anything, get your car up on ramps and remove the belly pan. I have 2 bolts (not needed), and one 5 mm allen wrench laying in my belly pan.

All in all, this manifold is one beautiful piece of work. Even after a couple of very spirited runs where everything under the hood was popping and making all those noises when hot, the manifold was still cold to the touch.

You need a full complement of metric sockets, wrenches, and allen sockets to make this happen. I even used a coping saw, hammer, and c-clamp, and wood screw to get all this done.

I hope this helps anyone doing this install in the future.

John

 

So what was/is the fix for your Boost Gauge?

 

Does it seem feasible to replace the plastic dipstick tube with aluminum tubing?

Can I safely assume that the Evo Shield comes with longer bolts/studs/whatever?

The hose underneath that you replaced..is that a hot water hose?

TIA,
Dan

 

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24437/oem_hoses1.jpg"></center><p>1. Replacing the tube with aluminum could throw off the depth at which you read your oil level. Also, you need a tight fit at the top of your dipstick. I had considered doing a rubber hose that I new I could get a good snug fit on the dipstick. My replacement tube cost $7.22. I would just buy one or two and go that way.

2. Yes the evo shield comes with longer bolts. KMD tuning has the evo shield for $99.

3. The larger hose above is part of the vacuum system. The hose circled is the one I replaced with a 1/2" hose about 6-8" long.

 

Got it. Thanks again

 

itself. If you replaced it with a brass "T", it won't have the proper sized hole in it, so your readings won't be accurate or won't even work. You will need to order another "T" from AWE or use a similar reducer.

 

you'll have some settling and should retorque the bolts. You'll see that they will be slightly loose.

 

I'll call AWE on Wed.

And yes, I will retighten those manifold bolts.

Your TT and mine have almost the same exact mods, and I'm just a DV ahead of you on the future mod list.

Thanks, John

 

Sorry you had so many issues with it. =/

 

I have great respect for anyone that grabs a wrench and goes after it. Busted knuckles creates character.