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Help - brake bleed question...

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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 02:30 PM
  #1  
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Default Help - brake bleed question...

I just installed Mintex red box brakes up front. Bled the fronts only, starting at passenger side first. Used nasTTcar's slick vacuum bleeder. Added some Petosin high temp fluid.

Problem now is mushy brake pedal and brake warning symbol on info panel. Car does stop, but I would hate to try an 80 mph panic stop.

Did I not run enough fluid out?
Do I need to bleed all 4 corners?
Need to fix this tonight.
Thank God for the garage; it's f'n cold out.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 02:35 PM
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Default 27 F here - glad it's not me outside here... Bleed fartherest away 1st (rear) >>

Should be Firmer than before, NO mushy!
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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Default Did the new pad have a wear sensor? If not you need to short the wires to get the brake light to go

out. I doubt the light is related to any air in the lines. You should not need to bleed the rears. How much did you run through the fronts? Did you even remove any brake lines to do the pads? If not, you should not even need to bleed. New pads to need to be broken in some before they reach their braking potential - have you done a pad seating series of stops (like 10 stops from 30 to 0 in rapid succession, then let them cool, then do it again; instructions on StopTech's site)?
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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Default Dooh! Did not short harness connector. Will try that to get rid of warning light.

Got UneekTT's SS brake lines, but did not install em. Waiting until I put in rear pads, then bleed whole system.

Pads are champhered. Sprayed the anti-squeal stuff on back of pads. Also used a product from ECS that sprays on pads and rotors. Some aluminum based anti-squeal product.

Started bedding procedure you described, but too many cars on road. Will try later tonight. Meanwhile, will bleed fronts a bit more.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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Default Bleed all 4wheels: RR, LR, RF, LF. Need to close the bleeder valve while .....

there is good vacuum being pulled. I would close the little valve on the vacuum bleeder, pump 10x, open little valve on vacuum bleeder, and then crack open the bleeder valve on the car. When you think you are ready to finish off that wheel, then close vacuum valve, pump 10x, open vacuum valve and then close the brake bleeder valve.

Done many cars and that always works for me.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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OK. Gil and John both recommend bleeding all 4 corners. Will try that. Now 17F out. 32F in garage.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 03:32 PM
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Default

you should bleed the clutch while you are at it.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 05:15 PM
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Default

And dont forget the blinker fluid too - Its right there - tee hee
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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Default Bingo. Brakes now all good.....

Did the 4 wheel brake bleed. Probably only 2 ounces per corner but that fixed the mushy brake pedal issue. Here is nasTTcar's vacuum brake bleeder on right rear:

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77447/brakebleed1.jpg">

Did left rear, then right front. Was able to do the fronts with wheels mounted. I had already pulled them twice. Notice how clean the winter wheels look? Washed and waxed em today:

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77447/brakebleed3a.jpg">

Here is worm's eye view of right front bleeder nipple with vacuum bleeder in place. It barely fit with 16x7 rim. ET40 offset just clears calipers.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77447/brakebleed3b.jpg">

Did 2 sets of 10 panic stops from 40-50 to about 10-20. The smell of toasty pads lingers in the 14F air tonight.
Thanks all for your advice.
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 07:22 AM
  #10  
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What's the consensus on vacuum versus pressure bleeders?
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