Need to Replace Clutch and Flywheel - Recommendations Please
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Need to Replace Clutch and Flywheel - Recommendations Please
I have searched and read alot about gear rattle and chatter. If all I did was track the car, then that would be OK, but 350 days per year it gets driven in traffic. So, it needs to be very driveable.
Any lightweight flywheels figured out how to provide the light weight while still performing like a dual mass flywheel?
Any lightweight flywheels figured out how to provide the light weight while still performing like a dual mass flywheel?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Wish I could help with the flywheel but from my personal experience
the South Bend DXD stage 3 is the way I would go - if you want I would drive by your house so you could feel how mine is and that might help you decide - take it around the block a couple times and see what its like - you might like it alot like I do - maybe?
Good luck on the flywheel though - wish I could help more!
Good luck on the flywheel though - wish I could help more!
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Joined: Aug 2004
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The guy that did my clutch - VFC Engineering, stated that it is not
a good idea to do the LW flywheel. Nobody has perfected it yet for the VW/Audi crew and it gives more headaches than its worth, so I did not do it to my baby.
John, maybe you should just get the stock flywheel? Or are you set on a LW one that you might have an issue with?
John, maybe you should just get the stock flywheel? Or are you set on a LW one that you might have an issue with?
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I thought AndrewTT ran a lightened flywheel...
I have read it affects the harmonic damping frequencies of the engine - I'm sure Steve has the link. I've 'thought' about a 14#, but def. not the 7# option.
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From: Boston, MA
I have the ecs stage III clutch kit >>
ECS Stage 3 Clutch Kit (228mm) with Light Weight Steel OEM 14lbs Flywheel, 300-375hp ES#127
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/iadmin/886_x600.jpg">
It's never slipped and my car has done ~340hp at the crank. I chose the 14lb flywheel because it has a steel center and the material meshes better with the hardware it bolts up to (the alternative is the 7lb all aluminum flywheel which people have had some problems with, but I think quicksilva runs it with his stage III setup).
It has a very accurate and grabby feel - but, the lightened flywheel does change things a bit. People that say it doesn't - don't know their cars enough, or changed clutch kits very early on. I did mine at about 75k.
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/iadmin/884_x600.jpg">
- more engine vibration
- harder to shift: rev matching is a must on downshifts if you don't already. Sometimes even on upshifts.
- the trade off is the setup is very forgiving. You are either in gear - or you're not. There are no grey areas.
If you have a chipped 225 with the basic power mods - look into getting a VR6 clutch and flywheel setup. It will have daily driveability and bullet-proof power handling.
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/iadmin/886_x600.jpg">
It's never slipped and my car has done ~340hp at the crank. I chose the 14lb flywheel because it has a steel center and the material meshes better with the hardware it bolts up to (the alternative is the 7lb all aluminum flywheel which people have had some problems with, but I think quicksilva runs it with his stage III setup).
It has a very accurate and grabby feel - but, the lightened flywheel does change things a bit. People that say it doesn't - don't know their cars enough, or changed clutch kits very early on. I did mine at about 75k.
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/iadmin/884_x600.jpg">
- more engine vibration
- harder to shift: rev matching is a must on downshifts if you don't already. Sometimes even on upshifts.
- the trade off is the setup is very forgiving. You are either in gear - or you're not. There are no grey areas.
If you have a chipped 225 with the basic power mods - look into getting a VR6 clutch and flywheel setup. It will have daily driveability and bullet-proof power handling.
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