TT (Mk1) Discussion Discussion forum for the Mk1 Audi TT Coupe & Roadster produced from 2000-2006

battery or alternator?

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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:14 AM
  #1  
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Default battery or alternator?

I've been through 3 "new" batteries now, and each one ends up the same way. Dead, along with my TT.

the first new battery actually checked out "bad", the second and third were good.

It all started when I replaced the OEM battery a few weeks ago. could jump it, but could not restart. bought new battery, bingo. car starts, car runs...for about 40 - 60 miles. then car dies again...the slow agonizing way that has been described in other posts, cluster, radio, radar, etc. start flaking out, then car finally won't run at all.

got my 3rd battery and tested it in my garage. at idle only putting out 11.5 or so at the battery terminals. just let it run and turned on all accessories, and it died after about 10 minutes.

now, these are not the best batteries (Interstate) in the world, but after 3, I'm thinking I've got a problem.

Is there anything to do but replace the alternator? I thought I had seen someone's instructions (somewhere on the net) on how to remove/replace the alternator, but I can't find it now (looked in tech section, etc.). If anybody can point me in the right direction, that would be great. I'll attempt the replacement this weekend.


45K miles on an '01 225 Roadster.

thanks!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Default Your alternator is gone and you've apparently been in denial..>>

Sorry, but this should have been checked earlier. Voltage output into a good battery at the terminals is 13.7-14V.......One of the first things you should check in any electrical charge diagnosis. You can buy digital voltmeters for $3 occasionally on sale at Harbor freight...Everyone should have one!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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Default lol alternator denial...

btw, do you have any pictures of how your rear seat delete came out? i don't think im willing to spend 1500 just yet. thanks
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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Default My name is A62.7TT and I have an electrical problem.....

yes, you guess it...really really really wanted it to be the battery.

the only reason I ended up with two more batteries was because after the initial replacement (and joy), the thing died on the interstate while driving home from a Friday night bowling league. only thing to do was to get a ride, pick up ANOTHER battery, and at least get the thing home. (cheaper than a tow truck...it worked like a charm)

but now I'm facing the truth and am willing to enter a 12-step program to replace the alternator. OEM replacement = $171 at parts store, they have exactly 1 that I can pick up today.

any tips on getting the old one out...? it sure is buried, but I guess it's time to take the wrench and go after it...well, that and a 12-pack out to do it....

thanks!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:32 AM
  #5  
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Default I believe alternator removal is part of a TB replacement, you might try looking at some of those

write-ups...
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Old May 28, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Default

<hijack> Hey Sage (Steve), YGM. :-)
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Old May 28, 2006 | 01:02 PM
  #7  
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Default ok, riddle me this...if Alt = Bad, shouldn't Alt Light = ON, hmmm?!?!?!

checked "fresh" battery with volt meter and it says 11.5 sitting out of the car, put supposedly charged battery back into TT, start it, and now it reads 11v, rev engine, no change.

so it's definitely not charging....alternator must be bad, right?

so why no Alternator Light on the cluster???

I'm slowly working my way toward the alternator, any tips on getting those dang clamps off? Just trying to get some of the hoses out of the way, and one runs right across the top of the alternator, and is attached to a little plate attached to the manifold and holds the dipstick. I'm sure it's simple, but I've not worked on this car to date...so it's an education.

thanks for the help!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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Default Oooops...Sorry to say that 11.5 is a dead battery...>>

Sorry I didn't pick up that fact in the first post. You've been working with bad info and possibly a bad part (several actually). A fully charged 12V battery will register around 12.6 + volts. Maybe the alternator is OK....It won't charge a toasted battery. Put a known good batery in and try again with the measurements to absolutely determine what the actual problem is.....I would look for a new battery source..

<img src="http://images16.fotki.com/v271/photos/7/7305/776256/DSC04647-vi.jpg">
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Old May 28, 2006 | 01:14 PM
  #9  
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Default Actually I put the seats back in...>>

Even with extra insulation the car was noisier...I also didn't have the time or patience to build the box to flush the floor.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #10  
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Default I'll backslide toward denial and take the battery back....since I've only made marginal

progress in taking the alternator out. just one bolt short of getting it out, but it's a doozy. the bottom bolt is blocked by the tensioner....which means I either need to take the tensioner off, or figure out the creative way someone does it otherwise.

of course, getting the serpentine belt back on will be fun....but good practice for when I need to replace it.

instead, I think i'll spend the next hour getting that battery replaced!

will let you know details, or at least I'll have a good post on a "12 step program for replacing your alternator and not worrying about your drinking problem."

thanks again...
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