Greddy RS valve - noise under vacuum - finally took it off.................
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Greddy RS valve - noise under vacuum - finally took it off.................
after screwing with it (literally 5.25 turns) I can't rid the valve of the honk at 6-8 in/hg. So this weekend I put my Forge back on. NO noise and it holds boost better up top - Greddy was wavering a bit between 15psi and 20-21psi.
So before I sell this thing - any suggestions on how to get it to hold boost better and eliminate the noise?
So before I sell this thing - any suggestions on how to get it to hold boost better and eliminate the noise?
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the basics:
1. verify the integrity of all of your hoses, the control line from the n249, and the 1 inch from the boost path, and back to the inlet.
2. verify the adaptor's components, is everything tight?
3. check the diaphram... any tears?
I find it hard to believe that this diaphram fails in service, it's so robust. That said, I think it's VERY easy to tear it during the rotation of the valve's cap to align the vacuum connection, or change the springs. So much pressure is required to compress the spring(s), it seems quite possible to slip, and nick the diaphram with a tool or one of the screws.
4. There are two camps on the issue of the springs. One uses both springs and leaves the adjustment untouched. The other removes the inner spring and runs the adjustment down 4-6 turns. Whichever you're doing, try the other..
Hope this helps
2. verify the adaptor's components, is everything tight?
3. check the diaphram... any tears?
I find it hard to believe that this diaphram fails in service, it's so robust. That said, I think it's VERY easy to tear it during the rotation of the valve's cap to align the vacuum connection, or change the springs. So much pressure is required to compress the spring(s), it seems quite possible to slip, and nick the diaphram with a tool or one of the screws.
4. There are two camps on the issue of the springs. One uses both springs and leaves the adjustment untouched. The other removes the inner spring and runs the adjustment down 4-6 turns. Whichever you're doing, try the other..
Hope this helps
Elder Member
Joined: Jul 2001
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joe, i'm surprised that you are having those issues. like russ says, make sure you check
everything before discounting the fact that the Greddy is toast. yeah, the forge works without the noise. also make sure the seals are all tight, including the main body to the top...and check all the 'O' rings to see if they are not ripped.
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Ok - i've done everything you suggest - twice :-) I'm running the single spring
and I opened it up when I replaced it with the Forge and the diaphram was fine - but I'll check that again. All the adaptors are tight. Maybe I just need to keep increasing spring tension. That's what I just don't know. I'll crank it up to six turns and see what happens. I know I had to run the yellow spring in my Forge when I was in the reverse orientation. Now that it's back in OEM orientation - i'm running the green spring and one shim.
Part of my problem with this is - this should be such a PITA to deal with - it should just work :-)
Part of my problem with this is - this should be such a PITA to deal with - it should just work :-)
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Elder Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 11,381
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shine a light behind the diaphram to make sure that you don't have any micro tears in it...
it could be that you can't spot it right off hand...and most are running it in the relocated area in reverse orientation i think.
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