Quickie "self-alignment" to KMAC has one side maxed out for toe, while other side has more to give?
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From: SoCal
Quickie "self-alignment" to KMAC has one side maxed out for toe, while other side has more to give?
i tried to make both rear wheels "match" for camber and toe using long levels, and measurments to matching body panels. (driver rear was WAY off after initial install with all KMAC "centered".
so using the handy FAQ (timely post, Schwing!) i tried to help things along until my alignment. why would one sde be SO far off initially, with all KMAC identical? install error? i cant remember ANY play, or possible nudging of any control arm to be off like that. it is the bottom arm on the driver side.
any ideas? i am just worried that i need more toe adjustment and just cant get in spec on the rack.
help?
so using the handy FAQ (timely post, Schwing!) i tried to help things along until my alignment. why would one sde be SO far off initially, with all KMAC identical? install error? i cant remember ANY play, or possible nudging of any control arm to be off like that. it is the bottom arm on the driver side.
any ideas? i am just worried that i need more toe adjustment and just cant get in spec on the rack.
help?
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There is toe adjustment at the "root" of the rear trailing arm (minimal). Also, Scott
mentioned you removed some subframe bolts - did you have several out at once, or did you do them one at a time? If several at once, you could have shifted the subframe.
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From: SoCal
hmmmmmmmm
i am not more than 1/8" off since a little arm adjustment goes a long way on at the wheel... is there that much adjustment at the "root"? maybe its possible the sub-frame shifted a smidge if there is play between washer/bolt? :-{ crap LOL
can you describe exactly where and what to push/pull for this other arm adjustment?
thanks!
can you describe exactly where and what to push/pull for this other arm adjustment?
thanks!
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Here's the pic....Plus..>>
I think for that technique to be anywhere near ballpark Doug, the car must be ABSOLUTELY level...
That's one nice thing about the Smartcamber guage. You can get an accurate measurement even if the Surface the car is on is not level. You zero it to the slope, then take the camber measurement.
<img src="http://images14.fotki.com/v219/photos/7/7305/63346/trailingarm-vi.jpg">
That's one nice thing about the Smartcamber guage. You can get an accurate measurement even if the Surface the car is on is not level. You zero it to the slope, then take the camber measurement.
<img src="http://images14.fotki.com/v219/photos/7/7305/63346/trailingarm-vi.jpg">
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From: SoCal
thanks for the illustration... last question - how can i KNOW for sure the sub-frame didnt shift?
any way to check? cross-measure diagonally from certain points? if so, which points?
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Dunno......Seems to me..>
You'd want the physical suspension adjustments set identically side to side, then shift the subframe until alignment specs left and right are equal. Just like you do on the front. There may be a Bentley technique, but there seems to be a lot of variance from car to car. Hungarian Jigs ya know...
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