sorry if this is convoluted, i'm just throwing some thoughts together...

first of all, thank all of you who have done a how to write up. i couldn't have done this without you all. i literally had 5 write ups printed off. the bentley just doesn't cover it well.

this was the most instense job i've done on a car so i took my time. i'm OCD about tq specs and making sure everything is perfect but it took me about 10-12 hours of total work time.

i'm sure there are a few out there that can do this job alone, but i just don't see how. i had to have 2 extra hands to help me on 10% of the work.

i had 58 k miles on the car. it's an '01. the belt was in perfect shape, in fact i'd say the age factor is pretty insignificant for all of you in question. unless you're into the 8-10 year range and still haven't met the mileage like TTinWV will be ;P

however the tensioner damper roller was almost shot, the bearing cartridge had play in it and the bearing spun way too freely. you could also see on the seal of the cartrige where grease was shooting out. i'd venture to say that this little rollerskate grade cheapo bearing is the culprit of most failures. without lube it could heat up and seize. you can figure out what's next.

timing belt pulley was in great shape but i replaced it anyway.

waterpump was cracked all to hell. it looked like part of it was broken prior to pulling it out and we also broke some more on the way out looking at freshness of the cracks. glad i got the iron replacement.

i replaced the thermostat too. for the record it can be replaced w/out taking of the mani or alternator, but it's not easy (actually it was the hardest part of the job). next time i'll probably just take off the alternator, considering i had the serp belt off. i didn't use the diesel geek thermostat housing, it wasn't oem and the bolt sleeves weren't bonded in the plastic like the oem unit (plus my oem unit seemed to be in sturdy good shape yo!)


serp belt was in pretty good shape but i think it may have been slipping a bit.

serp tensioner was in good shape, but i'll change it at the next timing belt interval. providing it doesn't fail sooner.

to get the timing belt on i had to turn the crank shaft to ease the belt on the cam gear like someone did in a write up. (and this is where the extra hands come into place, because this is somewhat risky move) I also use a clamp on the camshaft gear technique to hold the belt on. just quadruple count your teeth on the old belt and new! (a second brain is good for this too!)

i had to take the entire motor mount out. oddly it was easier to put all the crap back together than it was taking it apart. that was a very pleasant suprise. but it's a little scary to turn those stretch bolts 90 degrees past spec'd tq range. yikes!

car seems to be heating up faster and staying pegged in the middle now. before it was up a tick or down a tick a lot.

yes, i'm very glad i did it myself. but i did have some extra brains in and out of the garage (brains that have built engines)it was helpful.

i think that's it. if your somewhat mechanically savy i say go for it and get a buddy that's slightly more savvy than you to help for some of it.

oh, there is one tq spec i couldn't find in bentley. crankshaft pulley (for serp belt) to crankshaft is 25 newtwon meters (18 ft lbs) for the record.

also make sure you use grease on the dieselgeek waterpump removal bits. i snapped one off.

i'm very glad i changed it when i changed it. whoever came up with that 60k interval seems to be right on the money.

now i get to go spend the money i saved on suspension !!!

i guess i need a new sig. lol

 

Well done! Now put your old TB parts up as your sig

 

My belt slips just abit when the car is cold. Already changed the t-stat.

 

And, I'm now just over 18K miles, so it might actually take me 13 years to get to 60K!

 

We (myself and a former diesel mechanic buddy) were able to do it in about half that time, though we were on a lift when possible and didn't do the thermostat.


There is a flaw in the design of the DG waterpump removal screws. There should be a fillet at the base of the head. Instead there is an amazingly square corner that acts as a stress riser and allows the head to snap off.

 

future usage. also, thanks to the both of you and others who shared your thoughts after the long process.... siiiiiighhhh i guess i'm next in the line siiiiiiiiigh PAIN

 

I was able to get the pump out with the remaining screws. Should probably still email him though.

 

Glad everything worked out. Next year will be my car's appointment with the TB fairy.

 

Thank for the writeup!
I will be doing the same next weekend and will compare notes.
I assume you got the replacement belt tensioner from DG? Still waiting for mine - should be here soon.

 

in that case you'll have to install it onto the tensioner damper. proper tq spec is 20nm (15ft lbs)