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Drop in Boost on 3k RPM Runs in 3rd

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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Drop in Boost on 3k RPM Runs in 3rd

My friend (ALMS 225 Coupe with APR91, VTDA, 2.5" Catback, 18" RS4 Rims) and I (225 Roadster with GIAC91, VTDA, Custom 3" Catback, heavy 19"s) made several WOT runs last night. I have a boost gauge and Modshack boost machine, and he has neither. Neither of us have a 3" downpipe, FMIC or silicone hoses.

We would start at 3k RPM in 3rd gear, honk the horn 3 times, and compare how we would pull on each other to redline. For the most part, we were completely nose-to-nose, however I noticed on my boost gauge that I would spike to 21-22psi @ 3k, hold at 20psi from 3k to 4.5k, then from 4.5k to redline it would steadily drop to 10psi. Is this normal? I'm asking this because my friend's TT would continue to slightly pull after we've reached 4.5-5k RPM, while I would start to taper off.

Secondly, what sorts of mods would help me retain boost longer? FMIC? 3" downpipe? Silicone hoses? Larger intake manifold? Adjust my Modshack Boost Machine? What's recommended..

I've realized his car is possibly 300lbs to 400lbs lighter than my car, especially with my heavier rims. While this has a lot to do with acceleration, I doubt it plays a part in the ability to hold boost to the higher RPMs.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Default He's got APR, You have GIAC....>

Hate to say it, but lots of GIAC cars have that same problem....

Generally at 4500 + heat soak sets in....ECU dials down boost as a protective measure. Best thing you can do for WOT High boost performance is an FMIC..
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Default A FMIC will allow you to hold boost as it scrubs heat...>>

better than the SMICs do. You won't gain any HP but it keeps you from loosing it.

The Samco turbo intake hose was made because the Audi hose would collapse around 5K. The IC hoses are the same ID throughout the hose whereas the Audi tapers.

The DP will help with the upper RPMS by being less restrictive and 1/2 inch ID larger.

As far as the intake goes, Maybe getting it extrune honed will help with flow. But Audi has done a good job on this peice.

Just my $0.02
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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Default

So GIAC, while some say is more aggressive, is known to dial down boost?
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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Default It was a relatively cool night too.

I remember some estimates of the 225's Dual SMIC being 83% effective while a Forge FMIC being 90% effective. Is the difference in the ability to hold boost really noticeable in real world application?
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Default Numerous complaints here in the past year...>

Exactly as you describe. You might want to see if there's a flash update..
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Default yup

i had to get rid of GIAC b/c of this issue. APR has never done it.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Figured you'd jump in!
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Default expensive lesson to learn

i'm still convinced GIAC can't adapt to different fuel grades like they claim, and my local "93" is actually 91 or lower. shame. btw, i run my apr on the 91 program.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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Default Hey----- Where is that "they are all the same, just use the nearest tuner" talk ?

This makes sense though. I have yet to see the need for a FMIC. Mine holds boost better in hot weather than in cold. (yes I know the ECU dials boost back due to density of cold air)

Oh --Schwing. I finally installed the boost machine. Cool. Had to MAKE myself dial it back to about 21-22 peak. Was seeing 24 !
Makes a small but noticable difference. I mounted it by clamping to the strut brace. just enough room to clear the hood. (For other readers I used the stock air box. Call me old and conservative.
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