TT (Mk1) Discussion Discussion forum for the Mk1 Audi TT Coupe & Roadster produced from 2000-2006

If I have the black sensor looking item at the bottom of my oil pan then I have the oil level sensor

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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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Default If I have the black sensor looking item at the bottom of my oil pan then I have the oil level sensor

correct? I have seen oil pans without that black box at the bottom and I am assuming that means they did not have the sensor. So if mine has the box I should be buying a pan with the hole- even if it is not for my engine code- but for the 225 or later TT's?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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Default if you have a "doo-dat" that being hold up by 3 5mm allen head screws then yes ... get the part i

posted on the other thread. they're cheap, reliable and fast. also you can call them and get the sealant from them too. you need that.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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Default The link you posted gives me a list of engine codes, I went to mine and it did not have the sensor

hole listed. But I know I have a small black box under there and was told it was the oil level sensor, but they only list the pan with oil level sensor hole for the later TT's, AUM and AWP engine codes. That is why I was wondering
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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Default if you have one then get the pan for the AMU... it's the same dam pan just with a hole for the sende

make sure... be EXTRA careful when you remove and replace thse screws. you do not want to buy a helicoil kit in addition with the new pan.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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gotcha, kinda what I thought
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Default good luck...if u need reference let me know i'll post pics.actually if u have time take some more

pics and i'll send you mine so you can do a formal write up. this should really be in the FAQ page since the dam part is soft like mud and easy to crack/striped
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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How long did it take you, or should I plan on? Also do you know how much shipping might be for this?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Default shipping isn't much you can call them and get a good/precise qoute. they are quick and reliable not

to mention the CHEAPEST place around to get a frikin pan.

time requirement i would say 2 hours. less if you been under the car often and take things off quickly. i DO NOT advise to RUSH it as i've mentioned before, this thing is made out of ALUMINUM... who the hell make Al oil pan? so rush it and stripped it will yield more times and headaches.

20 5mm allen heads screw around the pan
3 5mm for the sender
2 6mm for the oil turbo feed
3 17mm or maybe 19mm tranny screws
you need to take off the coolant line to get to one of the screw.
sealant ... i used the red one on the site.
get a rubber hammer and knock the **** off. good time to change oil filter

i'm going off by memory so something might not match up but those are the basic. shoot me an emails and i'll send you all the pics i have and you can take some so you can write up a formal how-to. this will help lots of ppl

<img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h249/Cruzad3r/oil%20pan/DSCN1357.jpg">
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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Does the coolant drain out, should I have some G12 for it?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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Default it's actually a little holder for the coolant line... here's the picture.

<img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h249/Cruzad3r/oil%20pan/DSCN1348.jpg">


that's the 19mm bolt connect the pan to the tranny... the black line is in the way..

<img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h249/Cruzad3r/oil%20pan/DSCN1342.jpg">

notice the black line again, the screw is there. i don't have a clear pic of the dam screw.
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