Bike questions for you bike people - Not audi related - Thanks :)
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Bike questions for you bike people - Not audi related - Thanks :)
Not Audi related however have seen many posts on here about bikes etc..
New to biking, have been biking about a month and a half. Have 300 miles on the bike now. Previously I was a competitive inline speed skater (26.2 miles marathon distance) and skated ~30-50 miles 4-5 times a week. Had a level 3 sprain in my ankle at the start of May and basically have to miss the whole skating season. Was cleared to take up cycling and am starting to get into it. (I was cleared a week ago for skating but am not allowed to do anything hard for training, will take a few months to get my ankles back up to strength) I plan to bike 3-5 times a week anywhere from 20-100 miles. (Still picking up biking, averaging about 17-22mph with always keeping my rpms at a minimum of 80 and normally 85-95.)
Currently have a 2005 Giant OCR1. Contemplating upgrades now. Have a TruVativ Elita triple crank 30/42/52 (175mm) and a 9speed 12-26 on the rear. I am considering upgrading to something different. Ultegra? Dura-Ace? Carbon? It was suggested that I consider one of these with a new bottom bracket that has the bearings on the outside.
Is it worth it for me to switch to a double instead of a triple? Do not use the 30 at all. And with a good tail wind I have topped out the 52. If I went to a double was thinking of getting a 55/42 or a 53/39. Is it worth the money to change the derailleur and switch to dual? Currently have a 105 in the front and a ultegra in the rear. The rear is a long-cage, was told it is not required to change this to a short-cage if you get a dual but for the difference in price will I notice a difference in performance?
Also going to be getting new road shoes tomorrow, was looking at the SIDI Genius 5 (around $229 list can get for about $160) is it worth the extra money to go to the carbon for $250 or the ergo 1 for $350? (Currently have a 2002 northwave MTB shoe with spd pedals.) Also considering new pedals, it was recomend to go with look pedals.. the new Keo or KeoTI?, recommendations? I would rather spend a bit more now and not have to worry about upgradeing later, if the proformance benifits are there. If its 2% better for $200 more its not worth it, if its 5% better for $100 more it may be..
I doubt I will be doing any type of competitive biking this year, however may consider some next year for fun. (Not serious enough with training for cycling to win etc.. but at least be able to stay in the 2nd or 3rd pack.) (Not sure exactly how it works in cycling but assume it is similar to speed skating.)
The shoes I have to do now. The pedals I can wait if it will not make a big difference. The crank set etc.. Is it worth upgrading now or just wait till next year and get a full-carbon bike?
Thanks in advance for any constructive advice about which parts to get.
New to biking, have been biking about a month and a half. Have 300 miles on the bike now. Previously I was a competitive inline speed skater (26.2 miles marathon distance) and skated ~30-50 miles 4-5 times a week. Had a level 3 sprain in my ankle at the start of May and basically have to miss the whole skating season. Was cleared to take up cycling and am starting to get into it. (I was cleared a week ago for skating but am not allowed to do anything hard for training, will take a few months to get my ankles back up to strength) I plan to bike 3-5 times a week anywhere from 20-100 miles. (Still picking up biking, averaging about 17-22mph with always keeping my rpms at a minimum of 80 and normally 85-95.)
Currently have a 2005 Giant OCR1. Contemplating upgrades now. Have a TruVativ Elita triple crank 30/42/52 (175mm) and a 9speed 12-26 on the rear. I am considering upgrading to something different. Ultegra? Dura-Ace? Carbon? It was suggested that I consider one of these with a new bottom bracket that has the bearings on the outside.
Is it worth it for me to switch to a double instead of a triple? Do not use the 30 at all. And with a good tail wind I have topped out the 52. If I went to a double was thinking of getting a 55/42 or a 53/39. Is it worth the money to change the derailleur and switch to dual? Currently have a 105 in the front and a ultegra in the rear. The rear is a long-cage, was told it is not required to change this to a short-cage if you get a dual but for the difference in price will I notice a difference in performance?
Also going to be getting new road shoes tomorrow, was looking at the SIDI Genius 5 (around $229 list can get for about $160) is it worth the extra money to go to the carbon for $250 or the ergo 1 for $350? (Currently have a 2002 northwave MTB shoe with spd pedals.) Also considering new pedals, it was recomend to go with look pedals.. the new Keo or KeoTI?, recommendations? I would rather spend a bit more now and not have to worry about upgradeing later, if the proformance benifits are there. If its 2% better for $200 more its not worth it, if its 5% better for $100 more it may be..
I doubt I will be doing any type of competitive biking this year, however may consider some next year for fun. (Not serious enough with training for cycling to win etc.. but at least be able to stay in the 2nd or 3rd pack.) (Not sure exactly how it works in cycling but assume it is similar to speed skating.)
The shoes I have to do now. The pedals I can wait if it will not make a big difference. The crank set etc.. Is it worth upgrading now or just wait till next year and get a full-carbon bike?
Thanks in advance for any constructive advice about which parts to get.
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Answers
DOnt waste your time getting new cranks now if you are going to get a new Carbor bike next year. If you get a good bike it should have those cranks on it already. And, why did you get a triple? Triples are for sissys, but then again so is rollerskating....
As for shoes, carbon is nice it allows the shoe to be lighter, stiffer, and most importantly closer to the pedal. But its really about what shoe its your foot the best. Sidi makes a nice shoe, and so does Specalized.
As for pedals, Ti axles have always made me nervious. But, the Keo is a great pedal, especailly for the price. Also consider Speedplay X's.
As for shoes, carbon is nice it allows the shoe to be lighter, stiffer, and most importantly closer to the pedal. But its really about what shoe its your foot the best. Sidi makes a nice shoe, and so does Specalized.
As for pedals, Ti axles have always made me nervious. But, the Keo is a great pedal, especailly for the price. Also consider Speedplay X's.
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Bike answers...
<font color="gray">Currently have a 2005 Giant OCR1. Contemplating upgrades now.</font>
Nice bike, good deal.
<font color="gray">Have a TruVativ Elita triple crank 30/42/52 (175mm) and a 9speed 12-26 on the rear.</font>
No offence, but the cranks you have are entry level, heavy, do not dampen road vibration and well, are just your run of the mill component.
<font color="gray">I am considering upgrading to something different. Ultegra? Dura-Ace? Carbon? It was suggested that I consider one of these with a new bottom bracket that has the bearings on the outside.</font>
While the new outboard bearing systems are great, they do not reduce weight significantly and the design is intended to allow for longer bearing life, so that like me (200lbs) you wont be replacing your BB every few years. (Although in all honesty, I have yet to use the new outboard system longer then a few test rides and have never worn out a current BB like you have, even after 4 years of moderate to heavy use.)
<font color="gray">Is it worth it for me to switch to a double instead of a triple?</font>
Yes, for you it will allow you to shift quicker, and save a decent amount of weight ditching a crank designed to accomodate an extra ring, as well as the added material to make the BB spindle longer, longer cage, more chain links etc.
<font color="gray">Do not use the 30 at all. And with a good tail wind I have topped out the 52. If I went to a double was thinking of getting a 55/42 or a 53/39.</font>
You will not use a 55/42, thats for TT bikes and if you want blown knees to go with your sprained ankles, thats what you'll end up with if you try and run a 55/42 all season. Get a standard road 53/39 set up.
<font color="gray">Is it worth the money to change the derailleur and switch to dual? Currently have a 105 in the front and a ultegra in the rear.</font>
While the Ultegra components will last, the 105 front you'll probably want to get rid of soon anyway.
<font color="gray">The rear is a long-cage, was told it is not required to change this to a short-cage if you get a dual but for the difference in price will I notice a difference in performance?</font>
Just find a deal on some decent DuraAce 7700 (9 speed) omponents. They last practically forever and with the 7800 series (10 speed) DuraAce on the market now, this has pushed the price of the 7700-7704 stuff down considerably.
You can find the lowest price for this stuff by reading along this link:
<a href="http://comparisonpricing.com/shimanoda2.htm">Find the lowest price on component grouppo's</a>
When you have finished researching on BB and Derailleurs, take a look at <a href="http://www.carbonLORD.com/cranks.html">this</a>, and I think the owner will give you a decent price break, (since you are into Audi's and bicycles as he is
<font color="gray">Also going to be getting new road shoes tomorrow, was looking at the SIDI Genius 5 (around $229 list can get for about $160) is it worth the extra money to go to the carbon for $250 or the ergo 1 for $350?</font>
IMHO, No. Yes, the Carbon sole will be stiffer, and the overall shoe lighter, but you have to weigh price versus performance and for a shoe, its subjective (I can think of better upgrades to be had on the actuall bike for better price points while the Genius shoe is proven and will work just fine).
<font color="gray">(Currently have a 2002 northwave MTB shoe with spd pedals.) Also considering new pedals, it was recomend to go with look pedals.. the new Keo or KeoTI?, recommendations? I would rather spend a bit more now and not have to worry about upgradeing later, if the proformance benifits are there. If its 2% better for $200 more its not worth it, if its 5% better for $100 more it may be.</font>
If you go from MTB Nortwaves and sh*tty SPD pedals to a set of Speedplay X1's (or X2's) you will never want to use Shimano's garbage pedal system ever again. Trust me, Speedplay X1's are the best thing since sliced bread. However with a road pedal, the cleats stick out major and are weird to walk on. They are not ergonomic walking devices like a MTB show with a recessed cleat would provide, but thats not the point, the point is to engage seamlessly, and flawlessly with enough float so you dont torque out your knees.....and thats exactly what Speedplay offers.
<font color="gray">I doubt I will be doing any type of competitive biking this year, however may consider some next year for fun.(Not serious enough with training for cycling to win etc.. but at least be able to stay in the 2nd or 3rd pack.) (Not sure exactly how it works in cycling but assume it is similar to speed skating.)</font>
You get there when you get there. I have yet to ever race either, even though I can carry a 25-30 average on a 50-100 mile route and ride between 25-50 miles every day. Its how you enjoy the sport and matters none if you race or not.
<font color="gray">The shoes I have to do now. The pedals I can wait if it will not make a big difference.</font>
I recommend doing the SiDi Genus and Speedplay X2 (or X1 if you have the $$$). I am 200lbs at 6'3" and have the Ti spindle X1's for 8 years trouble free (Speedplay rebuilt them 3 years ago for free and I bought them at a swp meet so they really stand behing their products).
<font color="gray">The crank set etc.. Is it worth upgrading now or just wait till next year and get a full-carbon bike?</font>
With a Carbon Crank, you will save rotational weight and have an item that reduces road vibration, while being stiffer (with use of 20 layers of directional composite fibers) and that certain company offers a Lifetime Warranty, unlike any other crank venfor in the world. It will also be lighter, and lets face it, will look a helluva lot cooler then a crappy stock tripple that came with your bike
<font color="gray">Thanks in advance for any constructive advice about which parts to get.</font>
Lets review, you will need new Sidi Genius shoes, Speedplay X1, Carbon Crank double 53/39 DuraAce 7700 BB, DuraAce short cage 7700 RD, DuraAce 7700 FD double, new shifters (for the double) probably a new chain (start fresh, get DuraAce) and if you really want to go the distance, I'll throw in a Carbon Seat Post at my cost if you buy a crank on discount.
Let me know, and when youre up for it come for one of my daily training rides.
<img src="http://www.carbonlord.com/SACwR.jpg">
Cheers!
Nice bike, good deal.
<font color="gray">Have a TruVativ Elita triple crank 30/42/52 (175mm) and a 9speed 12-26 on the rear.</font>
No offence, but the cranks you have are entry level, heavy, do not dampen road vibration and well, are just your run of the mill component.
<font color="gray">I am considering upgrading to something different. Ultegra? Dura-Ace? Carbon? It was suggested that I consider one of these with a new bottom bracket that has the bearings on the outside.</font>
While the new outboard bearing systems are great, they do not reduce weight significantly and the design is intended to allow for longer bearing life, so that like me (200lbs) you wont be replacing your BB every few years. (Although in all honesty, I have yet to use the new outboard system longer then a few test rides and have never worn out a current BB like you have, even after 4 years of moderate to heavy use.)
<font color="gray">Is it worth it for me to switch to a double instead of a triple?</font>
Yes, for you it will allow you to shift quicker, and save a decent amount of weight ditching a crank designed to accomodate an extra ring, as well as the added material to make the BB spindle longer, longer cage, more chain links etc.
<font color="gray">Do not use the 30 at all. And with a good tail wind I have topped out the 52. If I went to a double was thinking of getting a 55/42 or a 53/39.</font>
You will not use a 55/42, thats for TT bikes and if you want blown knees to go with your sprained ankles, thats what you'll end up with if you try and run a 55/42 all season. Get a standard road 53/39 set up.
<font color="gray">Is it worth the money to change the derailleur and switch to dual? Currently have a 105 in the front and a ultegra in the rear.</font>
While the Ultegra components will last, the 105 front you'll probably want to get rid of soon anyway.
<font color="gray">The rear is a long-cage, was told it is not required to change this to a short-cage if you get a dual but for the difference in price will I notice a difference in performance?</font>
Just find a deal on some decent DuraAce 7700 (9 speed) omponents. They last practically forever and with the 7800 series (10 speed) DuraAce on the market now, this has pushed the price of the 7700-7704 stuff down considerably.
You can find the lowest price for this stuff by reading along this link:
<a href="http://comparisonpricing.com/shimanoda2.htm">Find the lowest price on component grouppo's</a>
When you have finished researching on BB and Derailleurs, take a look at <a href="http://www.carbonLORD.com/cranks.html">this</a>, and I think the owner will give you a decent price break, (since you are into Audi's and bicycles as he is
<font color="gray">Also going to be getting new road shoes tomorrow, was looking at the SIDI Genius 5 (around $229 list can get for about $160) is it worth the extra money to go to the carbon for $250 or the ergo 1 for $350?</font>
IMHO, No. Yes, the Carbon sole will be stiffer, and the overall shoe lighter, but you have to weigh price versus performance and for a shoe, its subjective (I can think of better upgrades to be had on the actuall bike for better price points while the Genius shoe is proven and will work just fine).
<font color="gray">(Currently have a 2002 northwave MTB shoe with spd pedals.) Also considering new pedals, it was recomend to go with look pedals.. the new Keo or KeoTI?, recommendations? I would rather spend a bit more now and not have to worry about upgradeing later, if the proformance benifits are there. If its 2% better for $200 more its not worth it, if its 5% better for $100 more it may be.</font>
If you go from MTB Nortwaves and sh*tty SPD pedals to a set of Speedplay X1's (or X2's) you will never want to use Shimano's garbage pedal system ever again. Trust me, Speedplay X1's are the best thing since sliced bread. However with a road pedal, the cleats stick out major and are weird to walk on. They are not ergonomic walking devices like a MTB show with a recessed cleat would provide, but thats not the point, the point is to engage seamlessly, and flawlessly with enough float so you dont torque out your knees.....and thats exactly what Speedplay offers.
<font color="gray">I doubt I will be doing any type of competitive biking this year, however may consider some next year for fun.(Not serious enough with training for cycling to win etc.. but at least be able to stay in the 2nd or 3rd pack.) (Not sure exactly how it works in cycling but assume it is similar to speed skating.)</font>
You get there when you get there. I have yet to ever race either, even though I can carry a 25-30 average on a 50-100 mile route and ride between 25-50 miles every day. Its how you enjoy the sport and matters none if you race or not.
<font color="gray">The shoes I have to do now. The pedals I can wait if it will not make a big difference.</font>
I recommend doing the SiDi Genus and Speedplay X2 (or X1 if you have the $$$). I am 200lbs at 6'3" and have the Ti spindle X1's for 8 years trouble free (Speedplay rebuilt them 3 years ago for free and I bought them at a swp meet so they really stand behing their products).
<font color="gray">The crank set etc.. Is it worth upgrading now or just wait till next year and get a full-carbon bike?</font>
With a Carbon Crank, you will save rotational weight and have an item that reduces road vibration, while being stiffer (with use of 20 layers of directional composite fibers) and that certain company offers a Lifetime Warranty, unlike any other crank venfor in the world. It will also be lighter, and lets face it, will look a helluva lot cooler then a crappy stock tripple that came with your bike
<font color="gray">Thanks in advance for any constructive advice about which parts to get.</font>
Lets review, you will need new Sidi Genius shoes, Speedplay X1, Carbon Crank double 53/39 DuraAce 7700 BB, DuraAce short cage 7700 RD, DuraAce 7700 FD double, new shifters (for the double) probably a new chain (start fresh, get DuraAce) and if you really want to go the distance, I'll throw in a Carbon Seat Post at my cost if you buy a crank on discount.
Let me know, and when youre up for it come for one of my daily training rides.
<img src="http://www.carbonlord.com/SACwR.jpg">
Cheers!
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 42,940
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I won a BMC for $1280 on eBay last ight!
<img src="http://www.carbonLORD.com/Bike/BMC.jpg">
I'm stoked! Its being sent COD for Thurs. delivery! I should have it in time for this weekends 100 miler
and all of my parts are pretty much in now too:
<img src="http://www.carbonlord.com/Bike/BMCparts.jpg">
I got these Syntace Carbon bars that weigh as much as a napkin!
Cant wait to try this set up out. It will be a 58cm bike that weights 14.7lbs complete!
WOO!
I'm stoked! Its being sent COD for Thurs. delivery! I should have it in time for this weekends 100 miler
and all of my parts are pretty much in now too:
<img src="http://www.carbonlord.com/Bike/BMCparts.jpg">
I got these Syntace Carbon bars that weigh as much as a napkin!
Cant wait to try this set up out. It will be a 58cm bike that weights 14.7lbs complete!
WOO!
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 42,940
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I want to know what slowagen said before he deleted it?
I realized after my long response that DavidRS4 was the troublesome speeder around these here parts.
Perhaps he is just as quick on the bike, and I'll finally have someone who can keep up
Perhaps he is just as quick on the bike, and I'll finally have someone who can keep up
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New Member
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leave the HR monitor at home and ...
get it dirty.
<img src="http://www.teamsally.com/galleries/pictures/pic1723.jpg">
Actually, sounds like a nice bike. I'm a huge fan of the new style of BB with outboard bearings, but that is because I break a lot of bottom brackets. I don't know how much of a real strength upgrade it could be on a road bike.
Triples are stupid here, it's pretty flat you know. I'd say leave it alone, ride it a lot and just buy up a notch or two with your next bike. Can't help with your pedal/shoe question. Clipping in is dangerous, don't you know?!
Eric! the jumps are calling you man ...
<img src="http://www.teamsally.com/galleries/pictures/pic1723.jpg">
Actually, sounds like a nice bike. I'm a huge fan of the new style of BB with outboard bearings, but that is because I break a lot of bottom brackets. I don't know how much of a real strength upgrade it could be on a road bike.
Triples are stupid here, it's pretty flat you know. I'd say leave it alone, ride it a lot and just buy up a notch or two with your next bike. Can't help with your pedal/shoe question. Clipping in is dangerous, don't you know?!
Eric! the jumps are calling you man ...