There its any difference between US and Canadian wersion of a 1988 Audi 90Q?
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There is between a US & Canada 1991 Audi 90!!
1) Daytime running lights - include headlights, front parking lights and rear taillights - cannot shut these off while engine is running. (Well, you can with some modifications...!)
2) No Driver's Airbag in Canada - Airbag in US (not sure what year this started)
3) Both have ProCon Ten - cable system that tightens seatbelts in severe front end
collisions. This changes things like transmission mounts, etc.
4) Canadian (mine anyway) speedometer shows only KM, no MPH markings at all. (If you can convert in your head, fine...)
5) Odometer is in KM. Only a pain when trying to figure MPG, etc.
6) Gauges are metric - Bars instead of PSI, Temp in C, not F, etc. Doesn't bother me at all.
Probably more, but that's what I can think of now...
2) No Driver's Airbag in Canada - Airbag in US (not sure what year this started)
3) Both have ProCon Ten - cable system that tightens seatbelts in severe front end
collisions. This changes things like transmission mounts, etc.
4) Canadian (mine anyway) speedometer shows only KM, no MPH markings at all. (If you can convert in your head, fine...)
5) Odometer is in KM. Only a pain when trying to figure MPG, etc.
6) Gauges are metric - Bars instead of PSI, Temp in C, not F, etc. Doesn't bother me at all.
Probably more, but that's what I can think of now...
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So how does 1988 = 1991?
He was asking about the '88, not the '91. Anyway...it is some good info, but here's more for ya ;-)
BTW, none of our gauges are in PSI or Farenheit. Celcius for water temp and oil temp, and Bar for oil pressure. Our speedo's have mi/hr as primary, and km/hr as secondary units.
DRL's suck.
Airbag's intro'd mid 1990.
BTW, none of our gauges are in PSI or Farenheit. Celcius for water temp and oil temp, and Bar for oil pressure. Our speedo's have mi/hr as primary, and km/hr as secondary units.
DRL's suck.
Airbag's intro'd mid 1990.
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Yeah, it's not the same year, but some things to think about....
and you are right... DRL's suck!
Lights up my neighbor's house every time I start the car. No room to point it a diff direction, so some weekend that's the project.
And no, it turns out stopping DRLs is not as simple as removing the DLR relay in the underdask panel... when I get it done, I will spell it out here, in case anyone else wants to make the change.
Lights up my neighbor's house every time I start the car. No room to point it a diff direction, so some weekend that's the project.
And no, it turns out stopping DRLs is not as simple as removing the DLR relay in the underdask panel... when I get it done, I will spell it out here, in case anyone else wants to make the change.
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There is a resistor in the circuit
with the low beams when the DRL relay kicks on. Supposedly, the lights are about 20% less bright. When you actually turn the headlights on, you can see a little increase in brightness, but not much.
The actual bulbs themselves are the same as the headlight bulbs.
In Europe, they have "City Lights" which are separate small, usually 5 watt bulbs, in the reflector along with the halogen headlight bulb. These usually can be switched on separately.
Various conversion kits let you add a city light within your headlight reflector if you wish.
The actual bulbs themselves are the same as the headlight bulbs.
In Europe, they have "City Lights" which are separate small, usually 5 watt bulbs, in the reflector along with the halogen headlight bulb. These usually can be switched on separately.
Various conversion kits let you add a city light within your headlight reflector if you wish.
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