<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/adjlink6.jpg"></center><p>
Just driving home from the drive-on lift that is required to do the balancing the difference is huge and much greater than the sum total of parts used to achieve it. Everything is now so precise-feeling, balanced and incredibly confidence-inspiring to drive. Tramlining with such wide wheels (8.5") and wide tires (245/40) totally disappeared after corner balancing.

Car tracks PERFECT!! The car was very well aligned before but now it will track in a straight line for minutes instead of seconds with no hands on the wheel. Braking from 100mph-to-zero is perfectly straight with no wander or creep left or right.

The new 28mm RS2 bar with the 22mm rear bar (now adjusted to it's stiffest setting) is incredible!! I can bring the rear end out at will and make a quick correction and then, even with no hands on the wheel, the rear end will hook up and follow the front again with no need or fear of counter-correction required. The rear swings out perfectly controlled and to whatever degree I feed it with the gas pedal then tucks back in and follws the car out of the turn in VERY precise, predictable, confidence-inspiring repeateability time after time. I can do a controlled drift at virtually any speed and hang the rear tires within an inch of the pavement edge over and over again without getting the rear tires off the pavement and into the marbles.

I got lucky last night and got some rain so I was able to really test the new mod on some rural farm-to-market roads out east of town. Got to play with the same dynamics I do on the track but at less speeds due to the wet pavement. With all the weight removed from the front of the car and lighter overall everything is falling into place. The Vogtland's now work like they should and no longer feel a little under-rated in the front. And they have never bottomed out again since the front end weight was lightened. When I first got them I thought they were sprung about 50 lbs light each in the front. Well if you cant bring Muhammed to the mountain, take the mountain to him. I knew Vogtland wouldn't give me a 50lb heavier spring so removing 100lbs off the front axles did the trick.

The lil red 90 is now incredibly well-balanced. Maybe the best-balanced/compensated street car I've ever owned. My gut tells me I just lost another +/- 1 second off my lap times and with the R-compounds probably another second beyond that. And that puts me only 2 seconds behind my friends 400HP UrQ on our local road course. Of course if he throws on R-compounds he'll get a second back but I still gained the additional +/- 1 second on him via the sway bar corner balancing since last time we went "round &amp; round." GAWD this thing corners flat and like its on rails now!

My plan is to hit the road course tomorrow to see what I "really" netted out of this.

 

I really want to see this car in action.

 

Sweet....Def. let us know the results on how it goes.

 

that I could put on and run you guys one lap around my local road course. Takes about 1:24.XX seconds for me to do a lap and with a grill-mount might be kinda fun to watch and hear.

My track closes for the seaon on Oct 31 so I dont know if I can pull it off in time but next year when I have a power plant that more closely matches the platform I could do that when the track re-opens or the new motor is finished.

But I'll see if I can yet pull it off this year. I need to find out who's got the camera and if our team "techie" wants to come out with me and set everything up.

 

a bit off the sway bar link topic, but did you powder coat your Vogtlands? mine are red, yours appear black. Secondly, I see a mighty red power cable going through there! haha
and finally, how do you think the car would handle with 28mm RS2 front bar and a skinny 16mm rear RS2 bar?

 

and fronts are kind of a bordeaux/burgundy color.

Yeah I dont like running 12 volt thick gauge wire thru the cabin so my positive battery cable is under the car and zip-tied to the unibody pan and encapsulated within fabric covered oil line at any chafe/rub points and all zip-tied locations.

Due to our weight a skinny rear swaybar just makes the car "plow" (understeer) so badly. Our race car (2600lbs) does fine without a rear bar or with one link disconnected rendering it useless. But due to it's power-to-weight ratio it can get away with that setup on short, twisty tracks but needs the bars on long (fast) tracks.

My car being under-powered isnt so lucky. I'm still turning my fastest lap times with large front/rear swaybars tho I doubt I could use the stiffest setting on the 22mm rear bar if I was running even 8" wide wheels. Takes a H-U-G-E contact patch of rubber on the ground to keep the 90 from turning into a "tail-happy" zealot ala 993/911. That is to say at speed just turning the wheel one direction or the other and let off the gas (transfer weight to the front axles) at speed and the rear end will move out and around you faster than human hands can correct it. When I get more power I will definately have to re-think front/rear bar diameters but for 220HP or less bigger will always be better in this 3,000lb+ chassis if you have the contact patch to tame/manage it.

 

I ran my 2 gauge cable through the cabin because I worry about it getting hit by something under the car. I have a 200-amp fuse inline with it, though, so that add a sense of security.
Still strange that your Vogtland springs are Silver...perhaps that would explain the difference in height.
And as far as the 16mm RS2 bar I have in the rear, it is definitely better than the stock one, but yes, I know the car still understeers turns. I'm not upping the size of the rear bar until I find a way to run wider tires...which has proven to be challenging at the moment.

 

you mount some triangulated rear sway bar mounts. Next step up for you beside having something custom-made is a 19mm rear bar and those are fatal to stock sub-frame mounting tabs without triangulated mounting brackets.

Your tire/wheel combination now is perfect for a 19mm rear bar but no sense doing an intermediate upgrade if your goal is to end up at 22mm in the rear.

 

17mm from LLtek, and 20mm from ECStuning i think...but the 22mm will probably be my final step. =)

 

I ran a custom made "one-off" set on my UrS4 that was 40/34 front/rear and LOVED em but that car was such a boat weight-wise. If I was keeping the power on the 90 at/near stock levels I'd likely have a 34/26 pair made. The only problems with doing that is having custom heavier duty end links fabricated along with bar center mounts and the links upper mounting tabs need to be reinforced lest they snap (BTDT!).