need help diagnosing suspension issue.....
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need help diagnosing suspension issue.....
Yesterday I had a new set of tires put on the car. The old tires vibrated very bad, like they were continually out of balance. With the old tires off and the new ones on, the wheels balanced perfectly. I was glad to here that the rims were not bent as I was told earlier. The car definitely rides much better, except for one issue.
When I reach about 65mph, I start to get a little wiggle in the steering wheel. It gets a little stronger around 70mph. It is just a little thumpimg in the steering wheel. It is a continuous, cyclic thumping. I hesitate to call it a vibration because vibrations tend to have a higher cyclic rate. I quess you could call it a low frequency vibration. Any ideas what could be going on?
Do cabs. need 4 wheel alignment? Are the set up for this type of alignment?
When I reach about 65mph, I start to get a little wiggle in the steering wheel. It gets a little stronger around 70mph. It is just a little thumpimg in the steering wheel. It is a continuous, cyclic thumping. I hesitate to call it a vibration because vibrations tend to have a higher cyclic rate. I quess you could call it a low frequency vibration. Any ideas what could be going on?
Do cabs. need 4 wheel alignment? Are the set up for this type of alignment?
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i don't have my bentley with me, but....
one shop has said front only, and another said that all four wheels can be aligned. Is the cab set up to have all 4 aligned? I know they can shim things back into alignment, but I would rather the fix the problem rather than compensting for it-if that is the case.
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This is what bentley says.......
Wheel alignment specifications
Front axle
Standard and Sport suspension
(1BA and 1BE)
Total toe (without load, wheels not pressed)
+10 10
Camber (wheels in straight-ahead position)
-45 30
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Toe difference angle at 20 lock from left to right
-1 + 30
Caster (not adjustable)
+2 10 30
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Rear axle
Standard and Sport suspension
(1BA and 1BE)
Camber
-1 30 20
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Toe per wheel (not adjustable with specified wheel camber)
+15 + 10
Total toe (not adjustable with specified wheel camber)
+30 20
Maximum permissible deviation from direction of travel
max. 25
Front axle
Standard and Sport suspension
(1BA and 1BE)
Total toe (without load, wheels not pressed)
+10 10
Camber (wheels in straight-ahead position)
-45 30
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Toe difference angle at 20 lock from left to right
-1 + 30
Caster (not adjustable)
+2 10 30
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Rear axle
Standard and Sport suspension
(1BA and 1BE)
Camber
-1 30 20
Maximum permissible difference between left and right sides
max. 30
Toe per wheel (not adjustable with specified wheel camber)
+15 + 10
Total toe (not adjustable with specified wheel camber)
+30 20
Maximum permissible deviation from direction of travel
max. 25
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Control Arm bushings or Alignment
You can do a two wheel alignment, I dont recomment it though. If the car has ever been hit, even like minor fender bender to say like the bumper, the get a four wheel alignment. The rears can be shimmed. I never thought I would say this , but you might have to take it to a dealership, the reason why is because there is a special tool that bolts to the rack and the clamp that holds the tie rods that keeps the wheel at the zero position. If you dont have it the wheels will be straight but the steering wheel will **** slightly left or right.
Check your control arm bushings, and remember not to tighten them till the car is on the ground.
If the wheels need balancing then it would feel like your car is riding on rocks.
Check the inner and outer tie rods and where they bolt to the steering rack arm. you can check this by looking behind the engine and having someone rock the wheel back and forth. Its a two bolt clamp where the steering damper (shock looking thing) also bolts up. Check the inner tie rod ends and check the bolts that hold the clamp to the rack.
Check your control arm bushings, and remember not to tighten them till the car is on the ground.
If the wheels need balancing then it would feel like your car is riding on rocks.
Check the inner and outer tie rods and where they bolt to the steering rack arm. you can check this by looking behind the engine and having someone rock the wheel back and forth. Its a two bolt clamp where the steering damper (shock looking thing) also bolts up. Check the inner tie rod ends and check the bolts that hold the clamp to the rack.
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