Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to Audi, and want to pass on my experience so far and offer some tips. I'm Saab all the way (own 4 NGs). Trying to get my 1995 90Q on the road; used sitting for long time, previous owner lousy upkeep -- meaning lots of repairs and puzzle-solving for me now. Wow! I thought my Saabs were bad when it comes to DIY and idiotic design. Hate to say it, but I'm regreting I bought the car. Idiotic design! Just about any DIY repair on 95 90Q is going to be a challenge, but it is possible -- just give yourself lots of time, patience, and make sure mom and granny are nowhere nearby 'cause you'll do lots of swearing and cussing. Here's my first contribution -- thermostat replacement. Symptoms: engine overheating, but fans were running. I assumed t-stat, and the old one was pretty beat up once I took it out. But I did not first bleed the system of any air pockets (as many suggested in the forum). My first advise for anyone with overheating issues, try to bleed the system. It works (esp. if your fans are not coming on, cause the air pockets will keep them from kicking in). To bleed, I loosened the firewall-side bolt on the metal part of the upper radiator hose -- follow the upper hose as it clamps onto the metal part and bends around back of engine; bolt is under break fluid reservoir, slightly to left (yours).

Thermostat: There are lots of helpful posts on this subject - so thanks to all. I'll just add a few points, skip some steps and obvious things (like drain system first, take off plastic engine covers, etc), and try to post some pics later. A few points: (1). I did it without removing the timing belt. It's doable this way, but it will require a deft touch and lots of swearing and scraped knuckles to put the new one in. (2). I removed (but did not disconnect) the fan and laid it on the engine to the side to give more room to work -- just pop out the 3 bolts on top and pull up carefully. Since the fan cables were all twisted underneath and had little give to allow fan to come all the way up, I had to go underneath the car to loosen the fan cables, 4 wires total, with the hot (+) wires attached to some stupid slab bolted on the fender, and the 2 negatives bolted directly on the fender (don't forget to reattached these, especially both negative cables, when you're done). (3). Remove the cerpentine belt - focus on the tensioner pulley; first, use a socket wrench (I think it's 17mm) on the big bolt poking out of its underside, bent down to release the tension, slide off belt. Then unbolt tensioner pulley; it's a star bolt. Set aside pulley (you'll see a nipple on its bottom, when replacing align it carefully to the impression on its housing compartment. Snap off the plastic cover of the timing belt; mark T-belt with marker or something, teeth/pulley location just in case! (4) After taking off the two smaller lower rad hoses (actually attached to the t-stat housing cover) remove rectangular-ish aluminum t-stat housing; 2 bolts (10mm), right-side one is touch, no room. Housing may be stuck, but just gently pry it off. Problem is slipping it past the nipple-cone of the the thermostast, since T-belt is in the way. Not much here to work in. You'll need to twist T-belt about 45 degrees or so (gently, carefully, etc). It took me forever to do this part, and used long screwdriver as pry-bar, but careful not to damage the housing, since it's easily chipped. T-stat itself may be stuck, but pop it out. New one slides in between the belt. This is not as easy as it seems, since you need to keep the rubber o-ring of it. Little breather hole on t-stat, up. (5). Replacing housing: tough, and lots of WTF! Not sure how, but managed to slide it over the t-stat by coming from underneath the T-belt. Also, during this part, I unbolted and put aside the ball-shaped plastic vacuum gizmo and outside sparks wire (mostly out of desparation). Put housing on by coming up from underneath, again bending the T-belt (teeth facing you). Good luck, and I'll try to post pics.

Other things I've done so far:
- cleaned ISV
- remover EGR for cleaning (WTF!!! that was tough and a PITA, and I can post tips later)
- ignition switch
Next repair jobs:
1. tie rod ends. Holy crap! The !@#@!%# thing is NOT coming out! WTF!!! I'll keep you posted.
2. Idle needle is still jumpy, my emissions people couldn't keep it at 2500 RPM, and sent me back home.
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