Pre-purchase Inspection?
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Pre-purchase Inspection?
Hiya! I'm paying a shop to do a prepurchase inspection on an 86 4kq on Friday and I'd like some help telling them what to look for. It's got to be thorough, because if I buy the car I'll need to fly to pick it up and then drive back 15 hours....
My main concern is corrosion- where is it likely to be hiding out?
The center diff light doesn't work- is there some clean way to tell if the diff is ok and the issue is the light itself?
I'm not too worried about the tranny/motor; only 120k miles on the clock (odo works...)
AC is dead; that's ok, it's a winter car...
Doors work, as do windows/radio/heat/moonroof..
I'll have the bearings/struts/bushings/strut bearings looked at...
How much play in the propshafts/diffs is too much?
What am I missing?
Thanks for any help,
Robert
Summer = Turbo Miata
Winter = not summer
My main concern is corrosion- where is it likely to be hiding out?
The center diff light doesn't work- is there some clean way to tell if the diff is ok and the issue is the light itself?
I'm not too worried about the tranny/motor; only 120k miles on the clock (odo works...)
AC is dead; that's ok, it's a winter car...
Doors work, as do windows/radio/heat/moonroof..
I'll have the bearings/struts/bushings/strut bearings looked at...
How much play in the propshafts/diffs is too much?
What am I missing?
Thanks for any help,
Robert
Summer = Turbo Miata
Winter = not summer
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Re: Pre-purchase Inspection?
Be SURE the clutch has been done recently. It's $$$$ to do a clutch, somewhere around 600 bones. The propshaft to the back will have some play, but not much more than say...1/16th of a turn. I wouldn't worry much about the engine/drivetrain except for excessive oil leaks somewhere. Rust isn't much of a problem underneath either, just on body panels. Check ALL the electricals...does the rear defroster work with all the lines (turn it on then fog the inside with your breath).
The center diff light could be any number of things, from a leaky vacuum hose to a kaput light in the panel. Put it in the '1' center lock position, then drive on some gravel. Take a very tight corner, and see if your rear wheels scrub.
Audi's mostly have electrical/plastic problems, so that's what you'll be fixing the most. Good luck!
Chris
86 4kq
The center diff light could be any number of things, from a leaky vacuum hose to a kaput light in the panel. Put it in the '1' center lock position, then drive on some gravel. Take a very tight corner, and see if your rear wheels scrub.
Audi's mostly have electrical/plastic problems, so that's what you'll be fixing the most. Good luck!
Chris
86 4kq
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Re: Pre-purchase Inspection?
Thanks Chris!
Clutch has been done, but I am not sure about the t-belt. Can you tell me what the change frequency is and if these are interference motors?
I'd asked about most of the electrical stuff, but totally forgot about the defroster; good one!
And thanks for the tip re the diff lock too. IIRC, there is a two-position switch. Is it center first, then center and rear?
Both of the ones I looked at locally had leaky output seals on the rear diff; are these easy to swap or is there some expensive audi-specific tool required?
Thanks again,
Robert (owner to be?)
Clutch has been done, but I am not sure about the t-belt. Can you tell me what the change frequency is and if these are interference motors?
I'd asked about most of the electrical stuff, but totally forgot about the defroster; good one!
And thanks for the tip re the diff lock too. IIRC, there is a two-position switch. Is it center first, then center and rear?
Both of the ones I looked at locally had leaky output seals on the rear diff; are these easy to swap or is there some expensive audi-specific tool required?
Thanks again,
Robert (owner to be?)
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,028
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Um, well
Ok, lets clarify this. The rotary **** is to lock your differentials. The '0' position means none is locked, and you have an 'open' differential (I suppose for towing, maybe...just be sure to put it in neutral!). This is what everyone uses 95% of the time, for rain and dry pavement. If you were to put one tire (doesn't matter which) on some gravel or ice, that tire will spin, and that's it.
The '1' position locks the center, meaning the front and back axles will turn together. Only use this in slick conditions like snow and gravel.
The '2' locks both the center and rear, as the rear axle wheels will be turning together. This is if you get REALLY stuck or have a severe incline to get up in the snow.
As for leakage at the diff, how bad is it? All cars will have some seepage, so if it's not terribly fresh, don't worry about it and check the diff oil level.
The '1' position locks the center, meaning the front and back axles will turn together. Only use this in slick conditions like snow and gravel.
The '2' locks both the center and rear, as the rear axle wheels will be turning together. This is if you get REALLY stuck or have a severe incline to get up in the snow.
As for leakage at the diff, how bad is it? All cars will have some seepage, so if it's not terribly fresh, don't worry about it and check the diff oil level.
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Re: Pre-purchase Inspection?
Thanks for the clarification, Chris. Not sure about the diff leak on this one, the mechs should be looking at it within the hour...
What should I pay for this car? 86 4ksq, 120k, good paint, electrics and odo work fine...
Thanks!
Robert
What should I pay for this car? 86 4ksq, 120k, good paint, electrics and odo work fine...
Thanks!
Robert
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RESULTS (was: Pre-purchase Inspection?)
Probably the best $60 I spent all year... very thorough.
Bad to not so bad:
1. Center diff not locking because the 'servo' (?) is bad. Garage said the part is less than $100 but that it's a tricky install, 2-3 hours.
2. E-brake is dead and requires new rear calipers and cables to repair.
3. Heater blows hot at first then cools while driving. Mech suggested partial heater core blockage.
4. No record of t-belt change
5. Clunk from front end (minor). Car has new a-arm bushings, mech thought perhaps the subframe bushings were bad.
6. Drivetrain noise; possibly the propshaft bearing carrier.
7. No power windows. Generally a switch problem, no?
8. Other minor stuff (sw off center, bit of brake pulse, dead trunk lift...)
I'd like some feedback on the first 3 or 4 of these- the quattro stuff is a bit mysterious to me, so I know _nothing_ about the diff servo. What will I pay for rear calipers (I'll do the work).
Thanks!
Robert
Bad to not so bad:
1. Center diff not locking because the 'servo' (?) is bad. Garage said the part is less than $100 but that it's a tricky install, 2-3 hours.
2. E-brake is dead and requires new rear calipers and cables to repair.
3. Heater blows hot at first then cools while driving. Mech suggested partial heater core blockage.
4. No record of t-belt change
5. Clunk from front end (minor). Car has new a-arm bushings, mech thought perhaps the subframe bushings were bad.
6. Drivetrain noise; possibly the propshaft bearing carrier.
7. No power windows. Generally a switch problem, no?
8. Other minor stuff (sw off center, bit of brake pulse, dead trunk lift...)
I'd like some feedback on the first 3 or 4 of these- the quattro stuff is a bit mysterious to me, so I know _nothing_ about the diff servo. What will I pay for rear calipers (I'll do the work).
Thanks!
Robert
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