2.3 swap into a 4000csq
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2.3 swap into a 4000csq
I have been reading the forums for a few days now and am going to ask my frist semi-dumb question. I have an 86 400csq with 5000tq ground controll adjustable struts and koni adjustable shocks with the upper strut brace with the 5000 csqt 5 lug wheels and it handles great. I want to bump the hp without going the Turbo route. How hard is it to swap the Audi 90 2.3 engine into my car? Which electronis will I need to use. Anyone done this yet? Thanks for any ideas.
Britt
Britt
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BTDT
It is virtually a bolt-in.
There are a few little weird things to deal with. The vacuum pump goes goodbye, and it isn't missed. I think the rubber plug on one of the intake fittings is the same size; just plug it and let the line run straight to the booster. Use your intake system. The injector sleeves have to be replaced with yours (they are threaded into the head; remove with an allen wrench). Pipe fitting on the back of the block has to be swapped around. The block is drilled for all the brackets you'll have to re-use, no problem there. Oil pan and valve cover may need to be used from your old engine (I used a 5k motor, and they were different). Not much else to it. If you get an automatic motor you'll have to removed the bushing in the end of the crankshaft and replace with a pilot bearing. This is not a fun job for the home mechanic, but it can be done.
Engine comes out from the BOTTOM with the trans attached. There are other ways to do it, but you'll beat yourself up trying. Some guys cheat and cut the rad support off the car, but I prefer not to chop my car apart to R&R an engine.
Safety note: these motors are ungawdly heavy! Don't try to move one yourself, or you'll be at the chiropractor shortly afterward.
There are a few little weird things to deal with. The vacuum pump goes goodbye, and it isn't missed. I think the rubber plug on one of the intake fittings is the same size; just plug it and let the line run straight to the booster. Use your intake system. The injector sleeves have to be replaced with yours (they are threaded into the head; remove with an allen wrench). Pipe fitting on the back of the block has to be swapped around. The block is drilled for all the brackets you'll have to re-use, no problem there. Oil pan and valve cover may need to be used from your old engine (I used a 5k motor, and they were different). Not much else to it. If you get an automatic motor you'll have to removed the bushing in the end of the crankshaft and replace with a pilot bearing. This is not a fun job for the home mechanic, but it can be done.
Engine comes out from the BOTTOM with the trans attached. There are other ways to do it, but you'll beat yourself up trying. Some guys cheat and cut the rad support off the car, but I prefer not to chop my car apart to R&R an engine.
Safety note: these motors are ungawdly heavy! Don't try to move one yourself, or you'll be at the chiropractor shortly afterward.
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Re: BTDT
Hey Dwight would you say it was worth the effort and expense? I would like to get the power up to about 150 hp NA so I can give the VR6 guys in my VW club a run for their money. I can eat them alive in the twisties but they kill me on the straights.
Britt
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Boys, Boys...
One question at a time ;>
Yes, I feel it is a worthy swap, but only if you simply swap engines. If you have to rebuild the donor motor it is a poor value, as the 5cyl is an expensive one to rebuild. Used engines are generally cheap for these, and anything around 100,000 miles should be fine with fresh seals, gaskets and lifters.
I would suspect the quatt is only slightly different from the CGT as the cars are the same from the bellhousing forward. I would think the engine should still come out from the bottom. The steering linkage gets in the way of a top removal and it is really difficult to maneauver it in the small amount of space left.
I also think you'll still get smoked by the VR6's. They are simply fast.
Yes, I feel it is a worthy swap, but only if you simply swap engines. If you have to rebuild the donor motor it is a poor value, as the 5cyl is an expensive one to rebuild. Used engines are generally cheap for these, and anything around 100,000 miles should be fine with fresh seals, gaskets and lifters.
I would suspect the quatt is only slightly different from the CGT as the cars are the same from the bellhousing forward. I would think the engine should still come out from the bottom. The steering linkage gets in the way of a top removal and it is really difficult to maneauver it in the small amount of space left.
I also think you'll still get smoked by the VR6's. They are simply fast.
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Re: VR6 is 175-180hp, depending on the car it's in. You'll still be a bit short.
Agreed thet will still have a HP advantage but they are 2 wheel front drive and most of the drives we go on have short straights and I've seen them light up the tires coming out of a corner. I'm hoping to have a higher exit speed to help me stay at least close until we get to the next turn. Now if I'm in front coming out of a corner with a greater exit speed and the VR6 guy sees me moving away a bit out of the corner it's my hope that he will really mash that right pedal and smoke em!
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which clutch?
I think the splines are different on quattros than on the coupes. I'd also be concerned about doing away with the knock sensor in the high compression NG motor. I have a spare NG and a 4000q with a blown motor I've been thinking about swapping. I'm sure it can be done but I'd like to have the parts ready for the swap rather than making wasted trips back and forth to the parts store.
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