I'm looking at different cars for when I sell my Golf TDI. I'm thinking about getting a 4000 quattro. What can you guys tell me about this car? From what the Audi guys on the Vortex tell me, is that the quattro drivetrain is pretty much bulletproof on these cars. Which year was the best? I'm guessing the last one, but I want your guys opinions. thanks all.

 

Well, I've had mine now for about 6 years. When I first got it, I lived in Nebraska, the land of ice and frozen crap. My GTI just wasn't cutting it with it's one wheel drive (most cars are), so the traction was a real Godsend. I was actually hunting for the steepest hill in town to drive up in the snow!

You'll find that the car is a quality piece of machinery. Rust isn't much of a problem, except on possibly the body. Audi didn't galvanize their cars until 1988. The engine/drivetrain is in fact quite sturdy, if a little rough. Think of it as a lowered Jeep of sorts. Originally these cars cost 17-19,000 bux new for the 85-87 cars and some of the 'luxury' touches show through.

With that aside, these cars are somewhat labor intensive and parts can be quite pricey. A cv boot replacement/ tranny mount job cost me 300 bux last week. Not having a turbo definitely cuts down on the cost, and reliability is much better than the pressurized 5000's, but you'll have to get used to the lack of power at higher speeds.

If you do get one, make sure the clutch has been replaced...no exceptions. That job costs around 700 bux due to the 4wd system, so be prepared. Be sure also that the timing belts were done and check all cv joints (there's 8!). As you might already know, having driven another German car, the electricals SUCK on these. Something is always burning out. Wires in the door hinges get cut in half from bending so much. If windows don't roll up, the wires are suspect. Check the rear defroster lines...they are so thin, one nick will take out half the defroster. Also check for the functionality of the diff locker system. It's vacuum operated and the lines tend to leak. Put it in the '1' position, take a tight corner and see if the wheels hop ON GRAVEL...not on dry pavement. See if the rear locks too.

There's other things, but in my experience those are some of the more major areas to check. Ticking from the engine is probably the wrong oil filter...use Bosch only!

Get an 87 in good condition.

Chris
86 4kq

 

A clutch job is expensive, but the clutches can last far in excess of 100k miles. Ticking in the upper part of the engine is unfortunately normal, thanks to the lifters which seem to like a heavier rather than a lighter weight oil. Wheel bearings, control arm bushings, struts tend to wear out (which makes sense; they are wear items). Electricals can be annoying but are rarely completely dibilitating. 4kq's after 1984 got a better electrical system, so I always recommend the 85-87 models. Miles can be ignored IF the car has been well maintained and cared for by a typically eccentric owner. Only rust I usually see on them is the rear quarter panels and sometimes the undercarriage in the rear. Built like tanks but sadly a bit underpowered.

 

Thanks for the insight guys

 

I just bought one myself :} '87 4000Q, bright (soon to be again) red

 

Best car I've ever owned. A real blast in the snow. Watch for electrical accessories.

Mark
'87 4KQ