North American debut of one of the greatest B6 mods of ALL time!
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North American debut of one of the greatest B6 mods of ALL time!
Can you guess what this is? 
The control unit.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20982/srkctrl.jpg">
Sweet goodness at the center.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20982/srkled.jpg">
The control unit.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20982/srkctrl.jpg">
Sweet goodness at the center.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20982/srkled.jpg">
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Super User
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Should have used a different LED but it works just fine.
The LED and load resistor pads are all there. Had to use a miniature LED (~3mm but 2.5mm would have been much better and wouldn't have needed trimming). Why Audi didn't just have it put in during assembly is beyond me.
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You have to (edited)...
...remove the overhead console (see Bentley CD), remove the SunRoofKnobSwitch (3 #10 Torx and two connectors), take off the back off the SRKS (3 #8 Torx), and slip out the circuit board.
You can solder in two LED load resistors, or one and a jumper, or a jumper (depends on LED voltage and current requirements) on the holes and solder pads already available. Watch out for how much wattage the LED consumes. I think there's room for two resistors so they could split the load and still use 1/4 watters.
The hard part comes with the LED. It goes right down the middle of the potentiometer used to set the sunroof opening. It has to have a small enough diameter to slide down and has to go down far enough so it doesn't interfere with the clear shaft coming out of the ****. This shaft not only links with the potentiometer, it's also clear to allow light to channel into the **** to light up the indicators. I trimmed down the base of a ~3mm LED so it would slip past the fitting that's there where the factory designed a LED to go in the original assembly (but left out). There are two holes with solder pads for the LED to be soldered to (make sure you have +/- leads in the right holes).
An ultrabright red (off state clear) of 3000 mcd intensity matches the best. I've now gone to a 6000 mcd intensity and it's bright even in the daylight.
You can unsolder the potentiometer to install the LED much easier from the top. Be very careful when you put it back together that the pot hasn't rotated. Otherwise you'll have to take it apart, reassemble it, and VAG out (clear) the error codes.
Put it all back together, attach the plugs, and reattach the upper console.
A little more than plug and play (or I could go into business modifying these) but it's so obvious it's already designed for this to have been done in the first place.
Enjoy!
You can solder in two LED load resistors, or one and a jumper, or a jumper (depends on LED voltage and current requirements) on the holes and solder pads already available. Watch out for how much wattage the LED consumes. I think there's room for two resistors so they could split the load and still use 1/4 watters.
The hard part comes with the LED. It goes right down the middle of the potentiometer used to set the sunroof opening. It has to have a small enough diameter to slide down and has to go down far enough so it doesn't interfere with the clear shaft coming out of the ****. This shaft not only links with the potentiometer, it's also clear to allow light to channel into the **** to light up the indicators. I trimmed down the base of a ~3mm LED so it would slip past the fitting that's there where the factory designed a LED to go in the original assembly (but left out). There are two holes with solder pads for the LED to be soldered to (make sure you have +/- leads in the right holes).
An ultrabright red (off state clear) of 3000 mcd intensity matches the best. I've now gone to a 6000 mcd intensity and it's bright even in the daylight.
You can unsolder the potentiometer to install the LED much easier from the top. Be very careful when you put it back together that the pot hasn't rotated. Otherwise you'll have to take it apart, reassemble it, and VAG out (clear) the error codes.
Put it all back together, attach the plugs, and reattach the upper console.
A little more than plug and play (or I could go into business modifying these) but it's so obvious it's already designed for this to have been done in the first place.
Enjoy!