Allright.. it has been 2 months since I installed my manual boost control. MBC

I thought I would share the experience with my fellow modders here. I purchased the Joe P manual boost controller about 4 months ago, and couldn't wait to put it on. I'm running stock programming, if you can call that programming. But stock nonetheless. My list of other mods is not exhaustive, but most of them are on there. Oh yeah, if you are considering purchasing a MBC, make sure you get one with Dual ball bearing design, as the single ones do not hold boost and are subject to SPIKING, and you will most likely be leaking boost.

Anyway, here are some findings. I would like to share with all of you from my experience, and hope that you can avoid the same mistakes.

1. OEM programming is very safe and controlled, as it is tuned for comfort+ a little extra juice to undercut the 4 banger"ness" of our cars. Suffice to say, not much boost coming stock.
As a result, there are many safety features that kick in when you overdo it, (duh!)
2. SO, don't over turn it. At about 14.5 PSI, the engine says "shiIITT!" and goes into something called "soft" limp, which is more like "impotent" to me, but regardless, limp it is. WHen this happens, you must wait until the car cools down, then restart the engine.
3. Once you have hit this upper limit, there's a code in the ECU that gets recorded and makes future overboosting very difficult, as it will immediatly kill your boost again, for example.. you boost 14psi, then all of a sudden you feel like somebody shot you in both legs, and you trip and fall. Your car will dip and cowl to a blistering 3-5 PSI, something around there right when it hits the upper limit, or exceeds it.
4. When sustained high boost (compared to oem boost) is retained while in high RPMs, you will get a check engine light. The code is for "upper boost limit exceeded". I had to clear those a few times. Thanks Vag =)
5. At and around 11-11.5 PSI is probably the max you can go at any REV range where the car still functions "normally" meaning, no limp, no surge, no oh my god it's falling apart ordeal.

Considering all these conditions and disadvantages of a MBC on our cars, I have taken it off, and reconnected my factory boost solonoid (not sure how to spell that one) , (solenoid?) oh well. No phonics for me.

I have probably killed a lot of my cat's life and put unecessary wear on my engine needless to say.

However, there are those who will still try it, so I thought that I would share my experiences as there appears to be such little information on this subject for our cars. Evidently, becuase it is not the best idea. Seeing that it is, this "project" was a poor man's recourse to a chip. Hmm... I think that's it.

Last note,
I am open to criticism, recommendations, explanations, etc.. anything is fine.
So if the older guys want to chastize, here is your chance. Bring it on.
I'm ReADY. !!!

 

im running a two stage mbc with my 1+ setup, when valve controls boost onset and creep, the other controls boost levels

 

feeback =)

 

I give you credit for trying. Most won't go to the extent of trying something different. However, the fundamentals of what you were trying to do were basically being over run by the software your car has. Bottom line, you had two conflicting interests; your boost controler and your computer.
Within trying to obtain more boost, you failed to acknowledge air/fuel ratios and timing. You added more air into the cylinders giving you a lean condition, (as one reason you had a fault code).
Revo has a good software and the SP setup to adjust some of these elements.

 

tends to run rich. Though I don't know exactly how much this helped.

But yes, software tuning is more in line since we have such high tech cars.

Thanks for the input!

 

and a bov isnt gonna balance anything out, lol, its gonna make you run rich for a few seconds only when you go off throttle and between shifts

 

yeah obviously... which is why i decided to switch it out.