How to get to this switch
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How to get to this switch
How can I get to item number 2 - the ac safety switch? I have the part. I was wondering if I can replace this myself rather than going to the mechanic and save a few bucks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2009
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I was having AC issues wherein the clutch won't even turn on or engage. No sign whatsoever.
I left the car at the mechanic for a few days. He tested the usual stuff, freon, sensors inside the cabin, traced the line etc etc. He said he finally put a jumper (apparently alligator clips) and the compressor kicked in.
He gave me the part # and I ordered it.
I was just wondering if I could install this myself. The part looks straight forward although it appears that it it is a screwed in valve of some sort. It looks like if I do this myself I might end up evacating the whole freon tank and will need to have it refilled.
Thanks in advance for the responses.
I left the car at the mechanic for a few days. He tested the usual stuff, freon, sensors inside the cabin, traced the line etc etc. He said he finally put a jumper (apparently alligator clips) and the compressor kicked in.
He gave me the part # and I ordered it.
I was just wondering if I could install this myself. The part looks straight forward although it appears that it it is a screwed in valve of some sort. It looks like if I do this myself I might end up evacating the whole freon tank and will need to have it refilled.
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Tech Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,010
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From: Olney, MD
Yup. Depending on how fast you are, you could probably extract the switch and replace it before all the freon leaks out and then recharge 134A to operating pressures.
However, the system would probably work a lot better if you suck and recharge with the precise amount of refrigerant specified.
Two more points...I'd replace the desiccant/dryer piece on a 98 car if not the expansion valve/filter (if there is one) if they've never been. There's also a good argument for replacing hi pressure hoses on a 11 year old car!
At one time the EPA was considering a regulation that would require a 4-year replacement cycle for automotive AC hoses...you can guess how far that one got! But the point is that hoses fail and leak anyway....
However, the system would probably work a lot better if you suck and recharge with the precise amount of refrigerant specified.
Two more points...I'd replace the desiccant/dryer piece on a 98 car if not the expansion valve/filter (if there is one) if they've never been. There's also a good argument for replacing hi pressure hoses on a 11 year old car!
At one time the EPA was considering a regulation that would require a 4-year replacement cycle for automotive AC hoses...you can guess how far that one got! But the point is that hoses fail and leak anyway....
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Tech Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
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LOL.
The mental picture of someone trying to insert the new switch against the pressure of freezing refridgerent is a crack up. :-)
First, has the switch been tested?
Second, is the system fully charged?
If the switch is faulty, discharge and replace. It isn't a bad idea to replace the receiver/drier, but far from mandatory given the brief time that the system will be open. Replace the hoses? Totally not necessary.
Also, system charge is weight based, not pressure based, so insure a correct charge, the system should evacuated and recharged correctly.
The mental picture of someone trying to insert the new switch against the pressure of freezing refridgerent is a crack up. :-)
First, has the switch been tested?
Second, is the system fully charged?
If the switch is faulty, discharge and replace. It isn't a bad idea to replace the receiver/drier, but far from mandatory given the brief time that the system will be open. Replace the hoses? Totally not necessary.
Also, system charge is weight based, not pressure based, so insure a correct charge, the system should evacuated and recharged correctly.
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Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
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LOL.
The mental picture of someone trying to insert the new switch against the pressure of freezing refridgerent is a crack up. :-)
First, has the switch been tested?
Second, is the system fully charged?
If the switch is faulty, discharge and replace. It isn't a bad idea to replace the receiver/drier, but far from mandatory given the brief time that the system will be open. Replace the hoses? Totally not necessary.
Also, system charge is weight based, not pressure based, so insure a correct charge, the system should evacuated and recharged correctly.
The mental picture of someone trying to insert the new switch against the pressure of freezing refridgerent is a crack up. :-)
First, has the switch been tested?
Second, is the system fully charged?
If the switch is faulty, discharge and replace. It isn't a bad idea to replace the receiver/drier, but far from mandatory given the brief time that the system will be open. Replace the hoses? Totally not necessary.
Also, system charge is weight based, not pressure based, so insure a correct charge, the system should evacuated and recharged correctly.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,098
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From: Jamaica Queens, NYC
you need to get to it by going behind the passenger headlight. i had a similar problem where it turned out that some line burned out from that switch to the climate control. causing the climate control to go dead (no power) and the shift lock selanoid to go dead as well (burnt the shift board)