I'm about to order 4 new coil packs and either NGK PFR6Q or the Denso IK22 plugs and was wondering what sites people have had the best luck with in regards to service and prices?

 

http://purems.com

http://ecstuning.com

 

thanks xclr8TT, I'm familiar with ecs and have used them multiple times but not sure of some of the other companies that provide more replacement stuff.

but alas, my last post, I may not need to get these! I regapped my plugs and I drove the car and zero problems I hope the results stay!!

 

[QUOTE=silverTTQC;23772262] not sure of some of the other companies that provide more replacement stuff.
QUOTE]

purerms.com looks like a great link let me know if they get your order shipped next day. Thats the one thing I miss about my DSM, slowboyracing.com got right on everything pronto and stocked every thing. They were a great business to do business with.

 

What you should know before buying all new coils.


What sucks is the wire, the companies use to make ignition plugs is guranteed to come in with defects usually a maximum of 10 per 100ft. (You see the odds of getting an igntion coil with subpar insulation) The other issue is the enamel coatings and impregnation varnish/epoxy of coils. This is why some people have a coil that fails before others.

The issue with manufacturing checking for weak insulation takes to much time. So its always best to ONLY REPLACE THE BAD COIL. Because even if you buy all new coils you may be replacing a well made coil with one that has a defect. Also some weaks/defects may not show up till wrapping the coil because of poor adhesion of enamel to copper. This is similiar to fish eyes when painting. no matter how much the wire company acid cleans the copper it will always have some spots with poor adhesion for enamel.

Almost nobody does quality checks for dissipation factor from incoming wire vendors. The dissipation factor tells you if the varnish was cured at the right temp and duration. Why do you care as a customer, because over or under cured enamel will will eventually crack with heat and vibration. I have seen this a hundred times. But the wire companies will say we monitor all that and its good. I believe that crap as much as they say "we only give 10 defects per 100ft", then you ask them to define a defect and then they choke. If you really test the hell out of the wire you will find its garbage when compared the best quality wire making company in the world.

The use of brittle expoxies is not good. When the epoxy cracks it propogates through the varnish and enamel. Most epoxies also do not adhere well to varnish or enamel.

If eventually all coils over the life of the vehicle fail this will point to CRUMMY Engineers who do not deserve to be working in the automotive field. The reason for 100% coil failure is simple.

1. Use of non-inverter grade materials and no traditional impregnation method (roll, trickle,vpi)before epoxy encapsulation. Gel epoxies don't wick into the coils for nothing. Why do you want good wicking? Air bubbles between wires holds air when encapsulated. This air break into ozone usually around 1kv but sometimes lower. The ozone is a kiss of death to wire insulation. Another reason why the boots that drop down in the head will short through some times. Ozone breaks down anything organic.

2. Engineers only using IEEE,IEC, JIS standards for bendability and stretch ability of enamel on wire. And have there studies use no respect to bend radius and break down voltage,and temp.

3. Improper material handling, coils must be treated like glass until they are filled with epoxy. And all tooling must be polished.

4. Lack of market research for best available material. THIS IS KEY TO ALL ELECTRIC coil\MOTORS. I only know of one vendor worthy of making automotive grade wire.


Trust me I deal with manufacturing all sorts stuff for cars primiarily engines and transmissions and have gone way to indepth with analysis of preventing electric motor/coil faults to save warranty costs.

I hope this will help you understand some of the reasons coil fail.

Rather than some company that sells ignition coils saying "dude buy all new coils, it makes me richer"

The processes to make good ignition coils are my secret, sorry.

 

one weakest link of the coils used on the 1.8T's is not the ignition coil (transformer) itself, but the resistive spark plug boot (or the actual spark plug wire) which protrudes from the coil to the sparkplug. This is not new technology but almost the same kind of boot used by VW's since the 70's. It is usally 2K ohms when it's good. The carbon element inside it eventually breaks, or the boot has cracks breaching its dialectric properties with high voltage. I've temporarily repaired these with electrical tape.

On older 1.8T's, you can easily yank this out and replace it. On the newer ones, they are part of the coil.

The other thing I noted that fails is the integrated igniter module (the FET discharge transistor) built in the new coils like what we have on the TT.

I haven't seen a coil fail due to the coil itself.

 

The boot is talked about above. Where do you get your data for the coil it self. I am interested and want to know. Typically fet or mosfets don't fail.

 

Just looked it up. Fets and mosfets usually account for less than 3% of all returned failed coils. Usual those components are stout.

 

are you drilling into the epoxy and tapping the top connection of the low side switch and testing the coil for turn to turn shorts with a baker surge tester or similiar. An open in the coil will look very similiar to a burned resistor or a bad fet.

also electrical tape does not fix the 2k resistor you speak of.

 

They only asked for a location of where to buy them, not a verbose response on what you believe is why they failed