I have been trying to get the panel off for almost an hour, but can't tell what is still holding it in.

I just picked up a 96 Cab and the right rear window is not working. I want to figure out if it is a regulator or motor issue before I buy a replacement.

It almost looks like I might need to open the top but it isn't working. Anyone know where I can find some detailed trouble-shooting for the top? I will try to scan with VagCom tomorrow to see if the top is throwing any codes.

 

one more time:

 

The rear seat comes out first, two screws under a cut out flap in the carpet at the front base of the seat, then remove the seat back, IIRC, it just slides up, then you can get at the screws, etc holding the panel in. You have to remove the bolt holding the front seat belt at the side panel, of course. Did you try the 'all windows' switch in the console first to see if that worked? Don't give up on this. The windows have to work for the top to work. As to troubleshooting for the top, search the forum. Many have posted help on this. If you are detailed oriented and have a vag-com and a Bentleys, you will be miles ahead. Great general knowledge from The New Audi Cabriolet, from which I have posted many pages, and this site http://audifans.net/ftopict-29457.html for getting into the Vag-Com block values and what is EXACTLY suppossed to happen and when, using the Bentleys measuring block values. The quick answer for the top though, is it's the trunk wiring.

 

Please note:

The most important words in Hub's reply are:

"The windows have to work for the top to work."

The first part of the top opening procedure is that the 4 windows all go down about 5 inches to drop them out of the way of the (eventually) moving parts of the top. If the car doesn't "feel" all 4 windows go down, it will flash the top symbol on your dash, and won't begin the opening procedure.

(edit) It is QUITE possible that, once you solve the window issue, the top will function normally.

For the rest of the top trouble shooting, you're on your own to search here for the info. Just like I will be when my top eventually fails.

(edit) One other thing: If you fix the window and the top functions normally, DON'T WORRY if your convertible top warning light on your dash flashes 10 times when you start the car for a few days. It takes a bunch of successful openings and closings to reset that warning light. Just let it be. DON'T try opening and closing the top 10 times in a row when you get it to work. It likely hasn't gone through its opening and closing cycles in some time, and the hydraulic seals need to adjust to being used again.

Cheers,
LG

 

Thanks for the responses. I have the rear seat completely removed and have taken out all the fasteners I can find for the panel. Does the small hex head bolt that attaches the little flap have to come out? I don't have any tools that can reach it to remove it.

The right rear window is down and has been for some time. When I push the window button I hear it trying to move, but can't see anything happening.

As far as the top, I do not have a flashing icon on the dash. The wierd thing it is doing now, is when I pull the button to open the top it lights up solid red. When I release the switch it goes back out. The trunk area was completely full with the transmission in several boxes, so I have removed everything for now. I was just hoping to get the window up quickly since it is the "monsoon" season here in AZ.

 

You need to have the emergency brake pulled up, and its dash light illuminated in order for the top to start its opening procedure. The fact that that your top warning light comes on solid when you hit the top switch tells me something very important... I don't think this is a problem with your top.

The e-brake dash light illuminates when a small click-switch under the brake handle pops up. Obviously, the click switch is supposed to pop up when you lift the handle, and is pressed back down when you put the handle down.

Because this switch and the main top control switch are both located (stupidly) so close to the cup holders, they frequently fall prey to soda and coffee spills. Sticky sugar = no "click" to your "click-switches." Standard rubbing alcohol is your friend, in this situation. But let's get back to the top issue.

Try this:

Pull up on the e-brake handle, and if the "BRAKE" light comes on, unlatch and lift the front of your top. Maybe 10 inches up from the windshield frame. Does your top warning light come on solid when you lift the top up? It should. If it doesn't, let me know, and I can go into more detail.

What I'm getting into here is the most simple set of issues you can have with these tops. You don't get any warning light until you attempt to open the top using the switch. When you pull up on the switch the light comes on, and when you let go of the switch, the light goes off. Right? That's not a problem with your top. That's your car saying you have an issue with one of the surrounding systems that need to be "right" in order for the top to be allowed to do its thing.

Anything else more severe, any problem with the function of the top mechanism itself, and it'll throw a code... that's when you see the flashing top warning light on startup.

Your rear window is very likely the culprit, but until you figure out how to get at the window motor/regulator, I've given you a few other things you can check in order to fill your time.

While you do that, I'm gonna hop on the ElsaWin and see if I can pull an exploded diagram of that rear panel. I give it about a 60% chance, but hey. It's better than nothing...

Cheers,
LG

 

OK, here ya go!

Yeah, I'm as suprized as you are...



Interior trim
Rear side trim panel, removing and installing


• ‒ Remove rear seat bench and backrest
• ‒ Remove belt fastener at B-pillar

1. Three point seat belt, rear

2. Side trim panel
o ◆ Move trim panel upward to disengage from tabs

3. Cover

4. Screw and washer assembly
o ◆ To remove, open convertible top storage compartment

5. Speaker cover
o ◆ Secured with clamping washers

6. Trim
o ◆ Secured with clamping washers to trim panel -7-

7. Trim panel

8. Screw and washer assembly (4x)

9. Self-tapping screw

10. Sill panel trim

 

I haven't had window trouble, so I can't speak from experience. Here's a page for a big picture look at where you're going. Looks like a cable driven system, so I guess it's a good thing that you can hear the motor. There are several pages on adjusting this beastie. $100 bucks would be well spent on a Bentleys CD and it's a good thing to have. That's not like giving in and asking for directions with your wife in the car, either. Heck, today I just spent 10 bucks on a lousy PDF manual for a dishwasher, had to fight with the wife to please NOT call the repairman, and eventually found a bad solder joint on the control board after working all day on it with a multimeter. So pony up the hundy. Oops, I cut off number 6, the window regulator motor.

 

I can kind off see where the window regulator will mount, but until I find some way to get the panel removed, I am stuck.

I might buy some more allen wrenches tomorrow hoping that is the one thing holding the panel on, but I amreally not sure.

 

You're kind of in an odd situation here, Mike...

You need to get the top storage door lifted in order to get at the last bolt, but you likely need a properly functioning window in order to get the top storage door to lift.

There is a way to manually open that top storage door, but I don't know how. Search the forum. I know that the procedure is listed somewhere around here. Peolpe have been using the manual way to open and close our tops for years, since the mechanicals are prone to gremlins.