I yanked the EGR from my '95 90q winter car while I had the trans out for a clutch job a couple of weeks ago. I recoded the ECM to Norwegian spec, got a threaded brass plug from Home Depot that fit perfectly in the ds exhaust manifold, made a blockoff plate for the intake manifold and tossed the EGR freq. valve. Using a spare Y I rigged the remaining vac hoses as if the Y was the EGR fv... I knew it wasn't going to work right, but I just needed to get it sealed up and running. The constant popping on decel was cool for the first five minutes I test drove the thing, but I can tell it will get annoying after a while, and I really want the intake runner changeover to function as it should.

Anyone have the proper routing of the remaining vac lines when you do a complete EGR delete? I could probably noodle through it, but I just don't have the time.

 

Do you have a FAQ on how to do this?
I'd like to do an EGR delete also.

 

Someone named "Audiboy" and Moribundman did this a few years ago - there's some more info on the 12v board.

here's the diagram they did...



try these links...
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=22378006
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2591659

 

I kind of went off a few different very old threads that I sought out. Basically I got the inspiration after looking for instruction on how/what to use my VAG-Com on the B4.

I will write up a detailed DIY for this once I figure out the vac lines. I don't suggest using the B5 guides because they cannot change the coding of the ECM (OBII compliant) and must leave the EGR frequency valve in the loop.

What year is your B4? There are three different ECMs used in the B4 and they are all different in how you recode them to permanently delete the EGR.

 

Mine is a 1993 90cs quattro.
Original AAH engine.
Controller: 8A0 906 266 A

I've got to take the intake apart to do the valley pan gasket, so while it's out, I should get rid of that useless EGR part.

 

Let us not confuse the EGR mod with the EGR delete.

The pic is of the EGR mod, this allows fresh air into the system when needed vice dirty carbon laced engine air which will eventually clog up the changeover solenoid and such.

 

the EGR valve is so expensive for what it is.

 

because it is a audi only part I think

 

So much for the EGR delete... And the $1200+ and 100+ hours I dumped in the car over the past couple of months.

So today I decided to drive out to a little Audi get-together and hang out with some of my local Audi friends I don't get enough time to hang out with because I am either too busy with work, flying or working on my cars. Did I drive my ultra-reliable TT roadster? No. Oh, my stage 3+ B5 S4 that makes enough torque to spin the earth in the opposite direction? Nope. How about my ultra-cool, old school Coupe quattro with a 20v swap? Ha! No way, Jose. I decided to take the $600 '95 90 quattro I bought for a winter car that I pulled the entire interior out of the other day to clean the carpet and fix the door cards...

A little background on this car: I bought this POS to be my winter beater. Now, it doesn't snow very much where I live in the winter, but when it does, you see idiots in Mustang Cobras spinning down the interstate and *******s in Grand Marquis with 26 inch cheap *** chrome rims and Chinese tires but no car insurance sliding into people, etc. I have had quite a few close calls the past couple of winters and when I saw this pop up on Craigslist in the beginning of the year I snatched it up. I was told all it needed was a clutch... But I ended up replacing the clutch, the flywheel, the clutch master and slave, the tranny mounts, the rear main seal, the brake master cylinder, the ignition wires, the spark plugs, the coolant tank, all the coolant hoses, all the vac lines, decarbonizing the intake manifold, replacing the valley pan gasket, rebuilding the breather hose assemblies, the valve cover gaskets, cam plug, air filter, control arm bushings, subframe mounts, strut mounts, ball joints, ignition switch and even replaced the damaged stock headlights with Depos that took about 3 months to arrive after I ordered them. I even went through the pain of swapping out the front bumper rebar and mounts with those from a Coupe quattro and a bunch of other custom stuff...

Well, today I decided to drive it 30 miles away to eat BBQ and drink beer with other Audi nuts, and about a quarter of the way there, the car starts to lose power and make some awfully strange noises. The power drop gets worse and worse until I can no longer even maintain 60 mph. I exit the highway looking for a gas station and don't find one for miles. The power continues to drop to the point of almost stalling out - even shifting down doesn't do anything. Then it seems to perk up, but the strange noises and vibrations continue, and when a gas station finally comes into sight, it's on the opposite side of the road which is divided by a median. As I get into the left hand turn lane, I hit the clutch and put it in neutral, and the motor dies. A turn of the key cranks the starter for a second and a half, maybe, but it too quits. Subsequent turns of the key do nothing but make a CLUNK sound and dim the idiot lights on the dash. All power accessories work, windows, hazards, a/c blower, radiator fans. I put the car in 5th and try to roll it down a slight hill - nothing. The car doesn't budge. I get it towed back to my house and check the oil - full up, just as it was the day I changed it earlier in the week. The t-belt is stil intact and though I am not 100% sure, I'd venture a guess it's still on correct timing. I even tried jump starting it with 4 gauge cables. So I am guessing the motor is siezed due to a locked up oil pump or blocked passage way.

Looks like it's time to do something with that ABZ I have had crated up sitting in the corner of my shop...

 

I'd still like info on how to recode my ECU to eliminate the EGR in my car.
Even if you can point me toward the FAQs you used, my EGR being stupid and it needs to go away.