1988 audi 90 water pump help.
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1988 audi 90 water pump help.
I am the proud owner of a 1988 audi 90. The water pump started to weep so I'm looking at replacing the harmonic balancer along with tensioner and timing belt. I found a kit from Blauparts.com. They ask if the timing belt is square or round tooth. I'm guessing mine is square but how do I tell without taking the front clip off?
Also the heater core was leaking and is now bypassed. I was looking at pulling the dash out but looks like a real pain in the ***! I saw this new stuff called K-Seal and was thinking maybe I could use that. I even thought of circulating it only through the heater core and then flushing. I would use a turkey fryer and a drill pump. Also block the discharge a little to up the pressure. It sure would be a good test of the product that's for sure.
Thank you all who offer opinions. I love the internet!
Also the heater core was leaking and is now bypassed. I was looking at pulling the dash out but looks like a real pain in the ***! I saw this new stuff called K-Seal and was thinking maybe I could use that. I even thought of circulating it only through the heater core and then flushing. I would use a turkey fryer and a drill pump. Also block the discharge a little to up the pressure. It sure would be a good test of the product that's for sure.
Thank you all who offer opinions. I love the internet!
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Audiworld Junior Member
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ok, der, found the sight hole. Square tooth. I read the crank bolt is 350 lbs. So I need a 350 lb. torque wrench? Can I cheat that and just put it back on roughneck tight or does it have to be that exact 350? I can get a 30" breaker and a swamper and put an easy 600 on it if I have to. Or would 200 and some blue lock tight do the job? maybe just jump on the breaker bar a couple times. I'm 150 on a 30" lever would be what? gotta be somewhere close to 350 right?
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From: LA, California
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Thank you very much for the links. No torque wrench there goes to 350 lbs. 
I don't want to spend $150 on this! Maybe I'll just poor boy it and rent one from autozone. eeeeeek! does this have to be 350 exact? can I just go over tight here or do I "HAVE" to use a torque wrench to get 350 exact? Sorry to be such a worm, I'm running on unemployment at the moment. Thank you for any help here.
I don't want to spend $150 on this! Maybe I'll just poor boy it and rent one from autozone. eeeeeek! does this have to be 350 exact? can I just go over tight here or do I "HAVE" to use a torque wrench to get 350 exact? Sorry to be such a worm, I'm running on unemployment at the moment. Thank you for any help here.
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just crank it on tight by hand with a breaker bar. mine never fell off and also none of the cars i've ever seen in the dealer i work at either. just make sure its tight. maybe a little bit of locktite. just keep an eye on it for a few days after. you will be fine.
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OK. Job done. Thank you very much AudiWorld for the guide that I followed. Helped a lot! My crankshaft seal was bonded to the engine. I will need to do it again and possibly mill out the seal with a rotozip or a dremel and a lot of time. When I replaced it I put a pin in a drill and tweaked the tip a just a bit to router out the old seal but all I get to is metal. Has anyone else ran into this. It's like the aluminum inside the seal boded to my engine!!! I mangled the new seal trying to pound it in but I have no leaks. Is this even something I should worry about?
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