So my most pressing issue as winter arrives here in the northeast is rapid loss of my power window functionality. A few months back, my interior got soaked by a thunderstorm but everything seemed fine after I cleaned it out. A few days later my windows would not work as I drove to work, but started to work about half way there. From then on, they have been working/failing intermittently.

Now they are failing more and more, sometimes for many days at a time, especially if the switches get wet again. So I was hoping someone could advise me on the best way to diagnose and remedy the issue- switches, relays, etc. I am not the most experienced electrician, but I can usually figure things out once I get in there. Here's a little more background info on the problem:

-When the windows are not working on the main panel, they do not work from any switch in the car. But everything else on the driver door panels still function normally- power mirrors, locks, power seat (on the side of driver seat)

-The only time I can be fairly certain they will not work is when (and after) they get wet, usually knocks them out for a day or two but then they "work fine" once dried out. I keep a tarp along in case rain is coming and the windows decide not to work prior to...

-Some days they will not work for a few minutes after I start driving, but then will work fine. Other times it is the other way around. Other times they will be working/failing when I make a stop (gas, etc); when I restart the car a few minutes later the windows status may be reversed!

So hopefully someone out there can relate to my frustration and help pinpoint the problem. I'm guessing it has to be a failing or bad switch/connector but I am just not sure where to start. Thanks for your time and help!

PS- My inside door handle recently broke as well! When I pulled it one day a spring-loaded pin popped out and now it is not catching anything...and I could not find the pin. So to make things much, much worse, I need to reach out and use the outside handle to open my door. So when the windows are not working, I am climbing out the passenger side! An ideas for this would me much appreciated as well.

Thanks again,
Andy

 

rip out the window/sunroof relay and look for cold solder points

 

Luxus,
Thanks for the tip, but I guess I should have it clearer how inexperienced I am with auto electronics so I need a little more guidance. Where/what am I ripping out and what am I looking for? My door panel controls windows, mirrors and locks, and the sunroof switch is on the ceiling by the dome light. Would you suspect the problem is from water damage or just old age?
Thanks!

 

BIG relay under the steering wheel. More than likely old age.

 

Thanks again for the advice. I have still not resolved the issue...I have pulled and opened the "363" relay- the largest, 10 pin relay. Can someone tell me what I am looking for inside the relay? I have been told to check the cold solder points and clean up the contacts. Can I test the relay with a multimeter?

Thanks,
Andy

 

Sure, try the "search" function here. This has been gone over. And over. When your windows went kapooey, if the Sunroof didn't work either, then the relay is the culprit. This is a must grab item every time I hit the junkyard. In fact I carry a spare in the trunk. If you got water on the switches, odds are good you should see something fugly looking inside that relay.

 

Hi,

I have had a malfunctioning rear door window and in 20 minutes I replaced the whole regulator.
It is extremely easy to do. But your case pinpoints exactly to the relay under the kickpanel above
your knees.

Don't lose your time trying to repair that relay. Replace it, it costs 10$ at any junk yard and it's standard from
91 upwards. Do get two if you're there and as 1993Audi90 said it. I have one spare aswell, electrical components go bad often in these cars, you need to know their weak spots and replace them. Audis are built very logically for parts to be easily replaceable, it's a breeze.


Another thing, once you do replace the relay, please replace the whole driver's side console with switches and attach it back to the door panel. Another 1 hour max and another 20-30$ from a good car. The car has been built in a way, put it back the same way, it is impossible for water to get in there if set as the factory built it. This way you KNOW you don't have anything to worry about.

 

Ok, thanks guys. I am currently searching for a used/salvage relay. I have searched the forums but have not found a detailed explanation of exactly how to repair the bad relay...just the "re-solder and clean" instructions. But just today I found this excellent guide with pictures if anyone else is going to try this.
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53181

I may give it a shot while I search for a relay...anyone know if they sell these online? I have found the 4-pin relays but not the 10-pin "363" relay. Also, my sunroof switch is still getting power...but its has come off its track so I just have in secured in the closed position w/o the damaged track. Might find a new sunroof while searching for a relay. And my window switches have definitely gotten wet as my windows are stuck halfway open on the front driver and passenger side. But the intermittent window failure had already began before getting wet a few times-and they usually did not work for a day or two when they did get wet during that period.

So I will keep looking for some backup relays but work on repairing the 363 relay in the meantime. If i do find a nicely stocked parts car, any suggestions on any other spare parts I should look for? Anyone need anything? There is a 95' A6 and a 96' A4 in my area I am going to check out. There's also an 87' Coupe GT that looks to be fully stocked with parts (engine, trans, interior, panels, lights, etc) is anyone is looking.

And I found this 18" Audi RS6 Black Wheel and tire package for $200!: http://lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/2714408427.html
Not sure if they are knockoffs but seem like a great deal if not.

 

Bad news mate. The 363 Relay works the windows and the Sunroof. If you have power to the sunroof with 363 out, your problem may lie elsewhere. Unplug the wiring going to the sunroof motor until you can fix it.
If you have the window switches accessible, see if you have a plastic connector joining the front window switch hot wire and a wire going to the power mirror switch. If you do, remove it and inspect the wiring under it. In fact, remove it altogether and tape each wire where it was. Not saying this is your problem, but that connector is plastic and metal. The wire on the window side is hot all the time. The mirror wire is not. When the metal in that connector breaks through the window wire all kinds of bad things can happen. Including fire.
I think there are a couple fuses on the underside of the steering column, bigger jobs than are in the fusebox. One is green, one yellow. Check these for continuity.
Use a power probe and hit the power wire on the front window power switch wire on the windows that are halfway open. This will at least get your windows closed until you can stop the bleeding.