Hubturn? need info about my factory B4 Antenna?
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Hubturn? need info about my factory B4 Antenna?
Ok, when I bought the car in 2008 the Antenna always went all the way up and never went back to rest portion.
In 2009, I noticed when I turned of the radio it never raises and I don't hear no noise in the trunk area if it was trying to go up.
I have been using a Alldata Audi cd and can't find nothing in detail. So I guess I need some info like the voltages that should always be there and when I turn the radio on? The mast always had a kink in it and that's probably why it stuck up a little bit when turning off. I seen your photos of a plastic gear in a other post. I need all the details about this that you give me.
Thanks Hubturn for any suggestions and what to look for in voltages and mechanical.
Right now it acts like its not receiving power too it?
Duane, MI
In 2009, I noticed when I turned of the radio it never raises and I don't hear no noise in the trunk area if it was trying to go up.
I have been using a Alldata Audi cd and can't find nothing in detail. So I guess I need some info like the voltages that should always be there and when I turn the radio on? The mast always had a kink in it and that's probably why it stuck up a little bit when turning off. I seen your photos of a plastic gear in a other post. I need all the details about this that you give me.
Thanks Hubturn for any suggestions and what to look for in voltages and mechanical.
Right now it acts like its not receiving power too it?
Duane, MI
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Posts: 541
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From: Charlotte, NC
Duane,
All the voltage is 12 volts. The antenna I have posted about is 8G0 035 509A. Attached is the exploded view that comes with a new antenna mast, from Audi,$45. If you have the stock radio, you should hear the antenna motor run when you turn the radio on or off. If this is an aftermarket radio, and you don't hear it run, it may be wired incorrectly. There are adapters to hook it up correctly. You need to get power back to it to test it. If it won't run, remove it. Disconnect it, and it will pull straight down out of the grommet. Take it apart, put 12v to the motor and see if it operates. If OK, you will see a circuit board with two relays. They have copper wire wrapped around them. These relays are one of the weak points. There are small springs on the relays that hold the contact points apart. These springs rust and break. Go to a good, old fashioned hardware store and get new springs and fit them in. If not take apart a cheap ballpoint pen and cut the spring to fit. Forget the antenna mast and plastic cable for now, and yes that is white grease in there, and reassemble it. Test it again to see if it will operate. If the motor runs, the relay is OK. Disassemble and pull gear labled 34 out of the assembly. Run you finger along the inside of the teeth. If there is a low spot, with the teeth chewed up, you are screwed. That's the other weak point. The metal drive gear eats the plastic gear. That's $400 for a whole new antenna at Audi or shop the junkyards for one you can scavenge parts from. I've been through three already. Let us know how it goes. By the way, part 33 is a clutch. When the down command is received, the motor spins part 34, which fits into the inside of part 33. When the antenna is all the way down, 34 and the aluminum inside of 33 continue to spin, rotating along the inside of the plastic part of 33 for a set amount of time to ensure the antenna mast is down. If that isn't properly lubed, and/or it siezes, the metal gear eats 34. Way too much engineering here. That's why the thing is $400. And no, you can't just buy 34. I've tried.
All the voltage is 12 volts. The antenna I have posted about is 8G0 035 509A. Attached is the exploded view that comes with a new antenna mast, from Audi,$45. If you have the stock radio, you should hear the antenna motor run when you turn the radio on or off. If this is an aftermarket radio, and you don't hear it run, it may be wired incorrectly. There are adapters to hook it up correctly. You need to get power back to it to test it. If it won't run, remove it. Disconnect it, and it will pull straight down out of the grommet. Take it apart, put 12v to the motor and see if it operates. If OK, you will see a circuit board with two relays. They have copper wire wrapped around them. These relays are one of the weak points. There are small springs on the relays that hold the contact points apart. These springs rust and break. Go to a good, old fashioned hardware store and get new springs and fit them in. If not take apart a cheap ballpoint pen and cut the spring to fit. Forget the antenna mast and plastic cable for now, and yes that is white grease in there, and reassemble it. Test it again to see if it will operate. If the motor runs, the relay is OK. Disassemble and pull gear labled 34 out of the assembly. Run you finger along the inside of the teeth. If there is a low spot, with the teeth chewed up, you are screwed. That's the other weak point. The metal drive gear eats the plastic gear. That's $400 for a whole new antenna at Audi or shop the junkyards for one you can scavenge parts from. I've been through three already. Let us know how it goes. By the way, part 33 is a clutch. When the down command is received, the motor spins part 34, which fits into the inside of part 33. When the antenna is all the way down, 34 and the aluminum inside of 33 continue to spin, rotating along the inside of the plastic part of 33 for a set amount of time to ensure the antenna mast is down. If that isn't properly lubed, and/or it siezes, the metal gear eats 34. Way too much engineering here. That's why the thing is $400. And no, you can't just buy 34. I've tried.
Last edited by hubturn; Jan 17, 2012 at 08:08 PM.
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Duane,
All the voltage is 12 volts. The antenna I have posted about is 8G0 035 509A. Attached is the exploded view that comes with a new antenna mast, from Audi,$45. If you have the stock radio, you should hear the antenna motor run when you turn the radio on or off. If this is an aftermarket radio, and you don't hear it run, it may be wired incorrectly. There are adapters to hook it up correctly. You need to get power back to it to test it. If it won't run, remove it. Disconnect it, and it will pull straight down out of the grommet. Take it apart, put 12v to the motor and see if it operates. If OK, you will see a circuit board with two relays. They have copper wire wrapped around them. These relays are one of the weak points. There are small springs on the relays that hold the contact points apart. These springs rust and break. Go to a good, old fashioned hardware store and get new springs and fit them in. If not take apart a cheap ballpoint pen and cut the spring to fit. Forget the antenna mast and plastic cable for now, and yes that is white grease in there, and reassemble it. Test it again to see if it will operate. If the motor runs, the relay is OK. Disassemble and pull gear labled 34 out of the assembly. Run you finger along the inside of the teeth. If there is a low spot, with the teeth chewed up, you are screwed. That's the other weak point. The metal drive gear eats the plastic gear. That's $400 for a whole new antenna at Audi or shop the junkyards for one you can scavenge parts from. I've been through three already. Let us know how it goes. By the way, part 33 is a clutch. When the down command is received, the motor spins part 34, which fits into the inside of part 33. When the antenna is all the way down, 34 and the aluminum inside of 33 continue to spin, rotating along the inside of the plastic part of 33 for a set amount of time to ensure the antenna mast is down. If that isn't properly lubed, and/or it siezes, the metal gear eats 34. Way too much engineering here. That's why the thing is $400. And no, you can't just buy 34. I've tried.
All the voltage is 12 volts. The antenna I have posted about is 8G0 035 509A. Attached is the exploded view that comes with a new antenna mast, from Audi,$45. If you have the stock radio, you should hear the antenna motor run when you turn the radio on or off. If this is an aftermarket radio, and you don't hear it run, it may be wired incorrectly. There are adapters to hook it up correctly. You need to get power back to it to test it. If it won't run, remove it. Disconnect it, and it will pull straight down out of the grommet. Take it apart, put 12v to the motor and see if it operates. If OK, you will see a circuit board with two relays. They have copper wire wrapped around them. These relays are one of the weak points. There are small springs on the relays that hold the contact points apart. These springs rust and break. Go to a good, old fashioned hardware store and get new springs and fit them in. If not take apart a cheap ballpoint pen and cut the spring to fit. Forget the antenna mast and plastic cable for now, and yes that is white grease in there, and reassemble it. Test it again to see if it will operate. If the motor runs, the relay is OK. Disassemble and pull gear labled 34 out of the assembly. Run you finger along the inside of the teeth. If there is a low spot, with the teeth chewed up, you are screwed. That's the other weak point. The metal drive gear eats the plastic gear. That's $400 for a whole new antenna at Audi or shop the junkyards for one you can scavenge parts from. I've been through three already. Let us know how it goes. By the way, part 33 is a clutch. When the down command is received, the motor spins part 34, which fits into the inside of part 33. When the antenna is all the way down, 34 and the aluminum inside of 33 continue to spin, rotating along the inside of the plastic part of 33 for a set amount of time to ensure the antenna mast is down. If that isn't properly lubed, and/or it siezes, the metal gear eats 34. Way too much engineering here. That's why the thing is $400. And no, you can't just buy 34. I've tried.
Thanks again for the excellent writeup,
Duane, MI
Last edited by duanevw; Jan 18, 2012 at 07:36 AM.
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If it isn't one thing its another lately,
Thanks Duane, MI
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 541
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From: Charlotte, NC
I have a '95 Cab so I only have that wiring diagram. Others may know better. You might as well get at it and fix the trunk wiring and then go from there. Many posts on the trunk wiring issue.
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