Puzzled?!?! Battery, Alternator, Etc...
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Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
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Puzzled?!?! Battery, Alternator, Etc...
Alright guys, I desperately need some guidance.Yesterday as I was driving home my battery night turned on. This morning as I was on my way to work, it happened again except this time as the voltage became really low, the ABS lights turned on and the car would shift roughly. After work I was scared that the car would not start but it fired right up with the voltage meter (inside the car) read normal (13-14 Volts). As I was driving it would drop to (11-12 Volts) anytime I was under 3000 RPM or so, anything over it would return to 13-14 volts. In the past I've noticed that the volts would drop when I would roll multiple windows down. My questions are:
What should I do? lol
(Charge battery overnight and get it tested tomorrow?)
Try to get to the alternator?
Can someone point me in the right direction (DIY)to remove an alternator?
I found multiple alternators for a 98 A6 engine code AHA, is there a way to tell if its 90A,120A,150A without removing alternator?
Thank you very much in advance guys
P.S. as I was coming home from work; lights died, ABS light come on again,etc. But it started up perfectly at 14V after sitting off in the lot for about 8 hours...huh
1998 Audi A6 Quattro; engine code AHA
What should I do? lol
(Charge battery overnight and get it tested tomorrow?)
Try to get to the alternator?
Can someone point me in the right direction (DIY)to remove an alternator?
I found multiple alternators for a 98 A6 engine code AHA, is there a way to tell if its 90A,120A,150A without removing alternator?
Thank you very much in advance guys
P.S. as I was coming home from work; lights died, ABS light come on again,etc. But it started up perfectly at 14V after sitting off in the lot for about 8 hours...huh
1998 Audi A6 Quattro; engine code AHA
Tech Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,011
Likes: 194
From: Olney, MD
Concur with 4D4 that it's likely a bad alternator, likely a worn set of brushes. On later model audi/bosch alternators you have to replace the voltage regulator to get a new set of brushes, on older Bosch alternators you can replace the brushes.
Worn brushes will give intermittent operation but are otherwise diagnosed only by inspection.
Worn brushes will give intermittent operation but are otherwise diagnosed only by inspection.
Thread Starter
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 16
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Thanks a lot guys. Got the battery checked out and it is fine. I just walked in from getting a new "used" alternator. It is a Bosch 14V/120A alternator taken from a 98/99 VW Passat. This should work right?..My alternator says Bosch 0 123 510 061, the one i just found is a Bosch 0 123 510 053. Anything I should be concerned about before I take my whole car apart?, AGAIN! haha
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: North Carolina
alternator voltage regulator question
Today I noticed the battery light came on and the voltage dropped to 12. It didn't last more than 30 or 40 seconds and occured maybe two or three times in 50 miles. Can I get by with a new voltage regulator or should I go ahead and get a new alternator and how can I tell which? The battery is good. No other symptoms so far. Recommendations please.
Tech Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,011
Likes: 194
From: Olney, MD
Here's VR for 2001 A6...$83 or so.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLS-VR1020...ht_1270wt_1180
p/n is 1 197 311 548
Here's VR for $26 for a 1999 A6...I would recommend you pull the alternator and examine the VR/brushes. OTOH, if you have more than 140K miles on the alternator, just get a new VR/brushes and replace the VR/brushes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-V...ht_1743wt_1180
Normally you can just look at the new VR and see if the brushes can be changed out. If the pigtails are spot-welded rather than soldered you generally can't. A new VR comes with new brushes.
Fair warning...when I found worn brushes on our 2K4.2A6 (had the alternator out to do the pesky plastic coolant pipe in the oil cooler housing) the VR was not in stock locally...took several days to get one. $100 or so. But still cheaper than a new one. Helps to have the p/n off the old VR. Sometimes the dealer doesn't have the VR as a service part (they clearly prefer to do remanufactured or new alternators...guess why.) so you have to drill down for the p/n.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLS-VR1020...ht_1270wt_1180
p/n is 1 197 311 548
Here's VR for $26 for a 1999 A6...I would recommend you pull the alternator and examine the VR/brushes. OTOH, if you have more than 140K miles on the alternator, just get a new VR/brushes and replace the VR/brushes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-V...ht_1743wt_1180
Normally you can just look at the new VR and see if the brushes can be changed out. If the pigtails are spot-welded rather than soldered you generally can't. A new VR comes with new brushes.
Fair warning...when I found worn brushes on our 2K4.2A6 (had the alternator out to do the pesky plastic coolant pipe in the oil cooler housing) the VR was not in stock locally...took several days to get one. $100 or so. But still cheaper than a new one. Helps to have the p/n off the old VR. Sometimes the dealer doesn't have the VR as a service part (they clearly prefer to do remanufactured or new alternators...guess why.) so you have to drill down for the p/n.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; Feb 25, 2012 at 01:43 PM.
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Tech Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,011
Likes: 194
From: Olney, MD
No, I would go with the p/n on the voltage regulator. Pull the alternator and get the p/n off the VR.
You can also visually inspect the slip rings and check for any other visible problems.
It's a small risk you get the wrong VR (although probably returnable) if you just give the car/engine/VIN to the parts guy.
Not only that, but by pulling the alternator you get to spin it and feel whether the bearings are shot. You can generally tell when bearings are gone but just because they spin easily/heavily doesn't mean they're good. If you just replace the VR on place you miss this opportunity.
You can also visually inspect the slip rings and check for any other visible problems.
It's a small risk you get the wrong VR (although probably returnable) if you just give the car/engine/VIN to the parts guy.
Not only that, but by pulling the alternator you get to spin it and feel whether the bearings are shot. You can generally tell when bearings are gone but just because they spin easily/heavily doesn't mean they're good. If you just replace the VR on place you miss this opportunity.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; Feb 26, 2012 at 06:38 AM.