Crankshaft Locking Pin only goes in half-way & wont lockdown the crank.
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Crankshaft Locking Pin only goes in half-way & wont lockdown the crank.
Guys - I'm using Blaupart Timing Belt kit and this tool #3242says "The first six threads are NOT defective/stripped. The Tool comes that way from the manufacturer. Thread-in tool and gently turn with 10MM wrench."
So I pulled out the plastic plug from the block along with it's O-ring and the proceeded to hand-thread this Pin tool. I easily got 13 turns done by hand but then I was only able to get about a half-turn with a wrench. The problem is that this is not enough turns to lock-down the crank shaft. There's easily another 6 turns of thread left on the tool but I can not wrench it anymore without slipping off/stripping the tool with the wrench.
Here are the pics - what do you think?
http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/njcotte/
So I pulled out the plastic plug from the block along with it's O-ring and the proceeded to hand-thread this Pin tool. I easily got 13 turns done by hand but then I was only able to get about a half-turn with a wrench. The problem is that this is not enough turns to lock-down the crank shaft. There's easily another 6 turns of thread left on the tool but I can not wrench it anymore without slipping off/stripping the tool with the wrench.
Here are the pics - what do you think?
http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/njcotte/
Thread Starter
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1. Yes, I did try turning the crank back and forth a few degrees (with the camshaft sprocket lock bar installed) & with the Pin half-way installed in the picture. And with the pin installed as pictured I could have kept on turning the crank in either direction for as much as I wanted to. The blaupart instructions say "With a 12 point 24mm socket wrench, double check that the crankshaft will not move by lightly turning the crankshaft".
2. How do I know it's lined up meaning how do I know the crank is at TDC and the camshafts are likewise at TDC? I just turned the crank to lineup the TDC mark and since the camshaft came up as being at TDC I'm assuming therefore that everything is lined up correctly at TDC.
After what you just said I'm starting to think that the crankshaft is designed with a certain divot when it's truly at TDC to accept the locking pin tool - or am I reading too much into this?
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Remove the cam locking bar until you get the pin locked in. I've seen them off by as much as 10 degrees. I've also seen the divot get packed with sludge, so you might try sticking a sharp screwdriver in the hole to clean out the divot.
Thread Starter
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Thanks - ok, so I've got another question about how the car would perform in this condition. I havent really had a chance to drive this car since I picked it up since I've been sorting-out fault codes before it'll pass state inspection. But I have been able to drive it around the block a few times at like 15-20mph and I didnt notice any idling issues - would there be anything noticeable? Also, would it be giving me any fault codes or is it simply a retarded timing situation that wouldnt be really noticeable at such low speeds?
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Less power.
This car ran fine, just not as quick as other 2.8's. A timing belt service transformed the car. Note that the cam locking bar is installed (you can see it in the foreground) and that the arrows show timing to be at least 10 degrees off. This is also evidence that the tools must be used for the proper result.
This car ran fine, just not as quick as other 2.8's. A timing belt service transformed the car. Note that the cam locking bar is installed (you can see it in the foreground) and that the arrows show timing to be at least 10 degrees off. This is also evidence that the tools must be used for the proper result.
Thread Starter
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 35
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Less power.
This car ran fine, just not as quick as other 2.8's. A timing belt service transformed the car. Note that the cam locking bar is installed (you can see it in the foreground) and that the arrows show timing to be at least 10 degrees off. This is also evidence that the tools must be used for the proper result.
This car ran fine, just not as quick as other 2.8's. A timing belt service transformed the car. Note that the cam locking bar is installed (you can see it in the foreground) and that the arrows show timing to be at least 10 degrees off. This is also evidence that the tools must be used for the proper result.
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From: Olney, MD
Could also be evidence that the tang on the timing gear sprocket is hashed and not indexed on the crankshaft properly.
http://www.blauparts.com/audi_techni...t_pulley.shtml
The engine will time correctly if the crankshaft sprocket tang is tango uniform as long as the crankshaft/sprocket is tight...the harmonic balancer timing mark will simply be øff.
http://www.blauparts.com/audi_techni...t_pulley.shtml
The engine will time correctly if the crankshaft sprocket tang is tango uniform as long as the crankshaft/sprocket is tight...the harmonic balancer timing mark will simply be øff.
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Never trust the front crank damper timing mark to be 100% on spot. Those damper pulleys are known to rotate all the time. Not just on this engine, but all VAG engines have been known to do this. Since the outer pulley is mounted on rubber, they tend to rotate slightly compared to the inner part of the pulley, yet they don't come apart or wobble and run the serpentine belt accessories just fine from what I've seen.
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Before I do this - If I remove the cam locking bar until I get the pin locked in, wont turning the crankshaft make the timing belt move the camshaft's timing marks that I already have here in my pictures? Or does this not matter?