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Adding sub and amp to Bose system

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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Default Adding sub and amp to Bose system

Starting a new thread for the Bose upgrade.

My JL Audio CP108GL box has not arrived yet, but I decided to go ahead and install the amp anyway.

Good thing the battery is in the trunk, very easy to run the power line. The ground point is right in front of the Bose amp.

Looking at the Bose sub under the deck, you might think the wires should be Grey and Grey/Red, but no such wires in the Bose connector.

Looking under the speaker grill, it turns out the wires are actually Brown/Blue and Brown/White

Spliced into these at the Bose amp.

Continued in next post.
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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Default Bose upgrade continued

Tried to find a remote turn-on wire in the Bose connector, but couldn't find one. Ran the remote wire to an empty fuse holder in the fuse bay on the right side of the trunk instead.

Fastened a couple of braces on the bottom of the amp, to get some air between the two amps.

Secured the JL Audio amp on top of the Bose with a strap.

Done! Now I just have to wait for the box to arrive and plug it in. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like!
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mickelin
Tried to find a remote turn-on wire in the Bose connector, but couldn't find one. Ran the remote wire to an empty fuse holder in the fuse bay on the right side of the trunk instead.

Fastened a couple of braces on the bottom of the amp, to get some air between the two amps.

Secured the JL Audio amp on top of the Bose with a strap.

Done! Now I just have to wait for the box to arrive and plug it in. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like!
What gauge power wire did you use? and did you add a fuse to the remote wire?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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I use an 8 guage wire kit for amps up to 350watts. I soldered the remote wire onto a 10 amp fuse that I inserted in an empty fuse holder.
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mickelin
I use an 8 guage wire kit for amps up to 350watts. I soldered the remote wire onto a 10 amp fuse that I inserted in an empty fuse holder.
Sweet thanks. Did you complete the power wire to the battery, then the amp and added the fuse last?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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Yes, well I completed all the wiring with the battery disconnected (power, ground, remote, signal in, speaker out), then reconnected the battery and finally inserted the 60 amp in-line fuse in the power line.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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How does it sound?
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:31 AM
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Still waiting for the sub to be delivered, will let you know as soon as I get it.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mickelin
I use an 8 guage wire kit for amps up to 350watts. I soldered the remote wire onto a 10 amp fuse that I inserted in an empty fuse holder.

Do you think soldering was the best choice? (in case the fuse ever blows, you need to resolder)

Have you ever heard/seen the "Add-a-circuit" fuse method. Link below

http://www.google.com/search?q=add+a...w=1280&bih=646

Can't wait to hear your feedback on the outcome. I havent even taken delivery yet, but so far, a lot of people seem to say the Bose is sub-par... I plan on doing something similar myself once i get the car
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Yes, I've seen those but haven't found them in any store here and didn't want to wait for delivery from ebay. As you can see in the picture, I solder on only an inch or so of wire onto the fuse and then screw the remote wire onto that. Takes a minute to fix a new one and cost is zero, in the very unlikely event the remote fuse would ever blow. It's the "poor man's Add-a-circuit", works very well. In fact that's they way I usually tap in to the fuse box and I keep a couple of ready soldered extra fuses in the car.

The Bose system sounds great except for the pathetic bass performance. I have very high hopes the extra sub will make it sound great overall!
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