A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

trans, better to over or under fill

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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 05:39 AM
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Default trans, better to over or under fill

I know, the correct answer is to do it right. However, the bottom of the trans pan is not flat. I can put the level on different spots and get different readings. I've put it on what I think is the correct spot, but how do I know? Thus, my question. What I think to be the wrong spot to use for level would cause the rear of the car to be raised and would require more fluid.

I am aware that under filling is bad, what about over filling? Or, the better question, just where does one put the level?

Thanks

This is for a 2001 A6 2.7
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 05:47 AM
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I guess you could drop the pan and clean it, get a new filter, etc.
With the pan off you could put the level across the trans casting and level the car. Install the filter/pan and recheck and see where you could put the level.
Is your pan dented/damaged? You could pound out the dent(s) or get a new pan.

IMHO underfilling is the worse thing you could do. Gross overfilling is apparently also bad due to foaming or some such. Just fill it like the procedure says.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 06:19 AM
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I got 12 L of original audi trans fluid. how do I get most of the old fluid out?
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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Car sitting level is correct level.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Default surprisingly dirty for only 3k miles

The pan is not dented. Sometimes the obvious to one is not to a dummy. Upon a second look there is a logical spot for the level to be placed. Didn't seem like it yesterday. So how does one decide if the car is level? Looks level, but is there an official place to measure level?

Anyway, changed the fluid. Almost exactly 6 quarts, add another half quart for the amount that dripped back out during the gear changes and such. Bought this car at 80k, had the trans fluid changed by the shop. Then changed the fluid at 135k, very black,no other visible debris. Then again today at 138k. Again, very black, no visible debris. Change filters each time. I did not expect it would be that dirty looking, but realize the 6 new mixed with the old. I'll change it one more time in another 3-5k miles. Do you suppose it will be black again?
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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you dont want to completely flush it. By leaving a good portion of the old fluid, you avoid hgih detergency that can cause problems in older vehicles. Juts drain what comes out - typically 5-7L!

G
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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I also did the ATF service on my C5 Avant a few weeks ago at 117k miles. It was last done at 96k miles, and the fluid this time was very dark. No visible signs of debris. Cleaned the pan well, magnets. And of course a new filter. It took 6.5L of fluid at correct temperature before it started weeping out the fill hole. I noticed that just within the minutes it took to bring the fluid up to temperature it had already darkened considerably by mixing with the old fluid remaining in the box and torque converter.
As stated my another post, don't attempt to flush it all, which is almost impossible. Just properly refill with quality fluid and new filter.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Sounds like the new fluid is cleaning out the trans over time. It's right that it doesn't get cleaned out all at once or possible to clog something.
However, since you've already added 12L over the last 3K, you should be able to flush it all out. Disconnect the return hose from the trans cooler (on my S6 there are two lines visible under the left hand/drivers side of the belly pan) and use the hydraulic pump on the trans to empty out/flush the old fluid. With the fill port on the pan open and ready to fill the pan, engine running and the return side of the cooler (the metal) pumping, just keep filling the trans until the fluid coming out of the pipe runs clean. If the fluid is coming out the hose, you've got the pressure line, reconnect and use the other one...cleans out the trans cooler..

From past experience with power steering pumps and transmissions, a LOT of fluid gets pumped through that line so you'll have to have a large bucket to catch the old fluid and pump a lot of fluid quickly into the pan...shut off the engine if you can't pump fast enough, fill the pan and start it again.

Once the fluid comes clear you can stop engine, button up the cooler line and then set the transmission fluid level the same way you did before...if the trans got too hot while this is going on you'll just have to wait for it to cool, probably several hours.

I saw one setup where a guy punched a hole into the trans fluid liter bottle cap and put in a hose and used a piece of coat hanger wire to bend the other end of the hose so it would hang/fill into the filler port.
Then he punched a hole into the side of the fluid bottle with a compressed air blower tip....drop the air pressure to the blower tip using the air pressure regulator (most compressors have one) to about 10-15psi and then use the blower tip to pressurize the fluid bottle and transfer fluid to the pan. Might have to throw some gorilla glue around the hose into the bottle cap the day before but it looked like a faster way than pumping....This would work like gangbusters if you get the 10liter containers of fluid.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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ughh, now I know I'm not going to have enough fluid. I need like 2 extra liters to do 2 changes...
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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Just do one change anyway - do the next after 10-20k miles. Its likely a better plan anyway, and eliminates your problem.

G
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