I posted the below question on vwvortex forums and haven't got much feedback. Hoping someone here might be able to help me out?

I've done the reading and can't quite find the answer I'm looking for. Any thoughts?

Post:

I have an '01 TTq 225 with 110k miles. Purchased in January from the original owner, a friend of mine. I've replaced the a/c compressor, some cracked hoses, and the coolant flange so far.

The clutch just went out on me, and along with a friend, we're going to try to try to replace the clutch on our own to save the $1,000+ in labor.

Mechancially: Coil packs have been replaced, Timing belt blew at 61,000 and the head was rebuilt, so approx 49k on the rebuilt head.


Question 1: Has anyone replaced their clutch on here that may offer some words of wisdom?
I found the following TT-specific walkthrough ( http://www.artio2m.com/index.php?c66...5ff0b05eec2174 ) and am curious if anyone has used this walkthrough to change their clutch? (Note: I also found this walkthrough for an a4, though I'd prefer to use the TT-specific one (http://audi-diy.blogspot.com/2007/11...placement.html) unless you guys think otherwise.


Question 2: I am thinking of going with the single mass conversion. I've read through other threads here and seen some limited discussion about South Stage and Clutchnet clutches. I'm curious as what people would recommend for my setup. As far as power and future mods, although the car is completely stock now, I'm looking to add a few mild mods (remapped ECU, 42dd downpipe, modshack intake, and Milltek sport exhaust to get me to the 270+/- crank HP range) so I don't think I need too much capacity on the new clutch. Any advice?

Question 3: What else should be done at the time I'm changing the clutch? Transmission has a minor grind in 3rd gear when shifting quickly (synchro?)
I was thinking:
1) Replacing the pilot bearing
2) Grease the fork contact points

Are there any other suggestions on parts to replace while we've got it torn apart?

I appreciate any help you guys can provide.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Seen as the R32 and the TT are practically the same car, use this DIY
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-Quick-Version

I'd replace the rear main seal and for the flywheel, if you don't want drive chatter from a single mass light weight 9lbs flywheel you can always get the eurospec 18lbs flywheel for a lot less money than what other companies sell single mass flywheels for Unless you plan on going crazy with a bigger turbo the SACHS clutch kit will do you just fine for $350 from mjmautohaus

Clutch kit:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/i...6184_6852_8688

Eurospec FW:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=3390

Seen as you'll probably drop the sub frame, you might want to change out the control arm bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends too...

 

do NOT get a single mass flywheel, you will hate driving your car around town, the chatter gets annoying and the fast rev up also mean fast rev down, no momentum to carry you at slow speed driving. DON'T DO IT

 

I just put a Valeo single mass flywheel kit on mine last week. It still does have mass to it-- not as light as most of the SMFs. Drives just fine. I found the clutch action to actually be a little light.

I didn't change my rear main seal, since I've been told that they're not problematic and changing them causes more of a chance for it to leak. That is unless it is visibly leaking.

My kit included the slave cylinder/release bearing, so I changed that.

I spent alot of time fixing broken steering rack bolts, a few other small ones, and generally greasing and cleaning up alot of threads.

 

Thanks, I'll use this one. Isn't the engine mounted trasnversly or am I off my rocker? Have you done yours? Any specific tools one might not think of that would be needed? I bought the Bentley repair manual for torque specs, etc.

Interesting, appreciate that idea, and not really sure about going too much higher on power. However, if in the future, I wanted to, is there a "stage" higher cltuch you'd recommend?
Like that flywheel, think I'm going to go with it. Do you have one or do you know of anyone that has used the setup?


Thanks for the link!

Correct - I'll add those to the list. What do you think about the RMS leaking when replaced? Anything to watch out for?

 

Any tools you'd recommend, pitfalls to avoid? Approx how many hours did it take you, out of curiousity? Where the broken steering rack bolts expected based on steering feel (e.g., did you order them in advance) or was this simply something you noticed when you had everything apart?

 

The R32 engine is mounted exactly the same as the TT, remember the TT comes with the same 3.2 motor as well.

When my buddy changed his clutch on his Jetta he went with a single mass 11lbs stock Corrado G60 FW on his O2J and it was great, no drive chatter and it felt a bit peppier. Now granted the transmission is different to the O2M, but I'm sure the 18lbs FW Eurospec makes, wouldn't give you drive chatter... But I'm sure the 9lbs Autotech one would!

With 110k miles, if I were you, I'd change the RMS... You don't want 10k to 20k down the road that the RMS fails and then you'll have to drop the tranny again... I'm sure anyone wouldn't do the clutch replacement without changing the master cylinder!

The clutch DIY show that you'll need an extra long 6mm allen socket and if you work on German cars a lot, you'll want to buy this 12 point triple square set... I'm buying this same set so I can change the brakes on my wife’s Q7:
http://www.mltoolsequipment.com/Prod...3416M&CartID=1

Look at the power steering rack diy, which is a few threads up/down, it'll help if you want more room to change the clutch

I haven't done this job yet, but I have the DIY printed out and ready for when I will have to tackle this issue someday seen as I’m at 116k

 

We have the Valeo single mass flywheel and clutch on our (chipped) 225 TT. No chatter, great reving, zero issue at slow speed. Only positive change, at least in our car

My wife didn't even notice any drivability issues after doing the clutch.

 

Do not go with a single mass flywheel.

Consider putting in a Fluidampr pulley to smooth things out.

South Bend is where you should be looking. The Stage 2 Endurance with Fermic/OFE is what you want.

The OEM clutch has trouble past 270 ft-lb, which you will be able to pass with what you have planned.