2001 Audi A6 2.7T APB engine FAQ Tranmission
Ok. So I pick up my car at the garage, my car is completely cooled off and I head up the uphill exit ramp. I decided to give it a little boost because I was in a rush to pick up my wife. So as I floor it I hear the turbos whining up and then suddenly a pop and whooosh, and there is no more power. UGHHHHH.
I had to get home no matter what, so i continued to drive. The engine sputters above 2k rpm. The idle bounces around between 500 and 750, but if I keep the car around 1k - 1750 rpm its ok.
I get home connect the vag, I have a whole bunch of o2 codes, and a maf code. I turn on the car again, idle bounces around, turn off the car, 2 more codes come up 16490 and 16622.
Are my turbos blown, or some hose came off or what? I cant check anything tonight, its already late, but in the morning I was hoping you guys can give me a to-do list.
This car has been giving me soooooo many problems the last couple months.
Last summer it was the transmission leak, then bad starter, then control arms, then front axles, then water pump, then trying to pass inspection, always shaking while driving- probably out of round wheels, its nonstop!
Please give me a list of things to check, clean, hope for the best, I'm really tired.
I checked the throttle body boot when I got home and it was fine. I just checked the car again after 2 hours, and I was able to revv the engine past 2K to about 5K, I didn't want to go more. There was a different dentist drill sound than the usual turbo sound this time....

 

Sounds like a major boost leak. Check the 'Y' pipe one the intake where the two intake tubes come together. Common spot for a leak. If not there start checking all the other intake piping from the turbos to the intake manifold.

There is a chance a turbo went, but it should still be able to rev with no load and idle. It sounds more like a bad vacuum/boost leak.

In the future don't ever run it hard when cold. Hard on engine and very hard on turbos.

 

I have a feeling that the metal pipe I removed to be able put the crank lock pin in under the driver side right behind the intercooler popped off from the rubber hose that goes to the turbo, well the rubber hose part must have popped off. I decided to lube it with oil to get it in easier because its not really easy to get it back in without being able to actually touch anything there, but I'm pretty sure I tightened the hose clamp good enough, I really really hope this is it.
Honestly though, I wouldn't even mind changing the turbos, but it would really suck not having a car for a couple days or a week or 2 again. But lately, EVERYTHING is breaking, its seriously crazy! When will it stop :`(

 

if you mean the throttle body boot, I already removed it and inspected it. There are no tears anywhere. No hoses look lose or broken on the top of the engine, but its dark out, and I just did a quick glance.

 

"pop and whooosh" is the key - pretty much guarantees you popped a hose and heard the boost air blasting out. Not having boost work when the engine computer expects it due to a big leak will throw all kinds of codes. And you're right to suspect the one you disconnected, unfortunately...
Jim

 

Absolutely. A hose blew off. Betcha don't put oil on any hoses anymore...

One trick you can use to get home when this happens is to unplug the MAF sensor...engine goes into limp-home mode. Engine runs smoother but you'll get a code; you'll have to clear codes anyway with massive boost leak.

 

this car! will seriously give me a heart attack one of these days.
it was not the hose I was messing with to put the crank lock pin in, it was on the passenger side the rubber hose that goes right into the bottom of the intercooler, which I never even touched. I took the hose out and some oil came out, i'd say about a tablespoon or 2, is that bad? I put the hose back, cleared codes, nothing came back, did tb adaptation a couple times just in case.


i hate when i press clear codes by accident, i did meas block 77-basic setings, to get past the sai pump codes, it passed the first time, but I clicked clear codes for some unknown reason and then i did the test again like 5 times and couldnt pass, it would only do TEST ON if the rpm was below 2550 this time, does the car have to cool off a little or something?
Perhaps I should take those valves off and put the sai block off plates finally...?

 

those hoses always seem to have a layer of oil anyway, inside and out, lol.

 

ohh, I forgot to mention.
something was a little weird when I was trying to pass the secondary air injection test. Sometimes the engine would rev normally and I can just hear the engine revving normally when holding the rpm between 2500-3k rpm. but then something changed sometimes and I can hear like a blowdryer sound. it wasn't loud, it was like a blowdryer on low settings. what could that be?

 

second. Had that happen to me.