what oil would you recommend - 3.0 with 130k miles
Thread Starter
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
what oil would you recommend - 3.0 with 130k miles
Mobil 1 high mileage? what viscosity? I live in coastal NC.
I think it uses/burns a little oil now but not bad for the mileage of 131k.
I did not bring the owners manual to my office, I think it was 6qts - going to stop and buy some oil and filter on the way home.
I think it uses/burns a little oil now but not bad for the mileage of 131k.
I did not bring the owners manual to my office, I think it was 6qts - going to stop and buy some oil and filter on the way home.
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Mobil 1 0w-40. dont go for that high mileage oils. Stay with the audi recommends for our cars
Tech Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,006
Likes: 2
I believe Mobil One's only 10w40 is the HM.
Which is just fine - a bit of extra ZDDP which is never a bad thing, and an HTHS of 4.0, also a good thing.
Truth is i dont think on a normally driven car it makes all that much difference.
The 3.0s wear badly, so i'd use an oil with good wear properties and would not leave it in for the duration - maybe 5-6k (if a good synthetic, half that if not).
G
Which is just fine - a bit of extra ZDDP which is never a bad thing, and an HTHS of 4.0, also a good thing.
Truth is i dont think on a normally driven car it makes all that much difference.
The 3.0s wear badly, so i'd use an oil with good wear properties and would not leave it in for the duration - maybe 5-6k (if a good synthetic, half that if not).
G
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 826
Likes: 2
I believe Mobil One's only 10w40 is the HM.
Which is just fine - a bit of extra ZDDP which is never a bad thing, and an HTHS of 4.0, also a good thing.
Truth is i dont think on a normally driven car it makes all that much difference.
The 3.0s wear badly, so i'd use an oil with good wear properties and would not leave it in for the duration - maybe 5-6k (if a good synthetic, half that if not).
G
Which is just fine - a bit of extra ZDDP which is never a bad thing, and an HTHS of 4.0, also a good thing.
Truth is i dont think on a normally driven car it makes all that much difference.
The 3.0s wear badly, so i'd use an oil with good wear properties and would not leave it in for the duration - maybe 5-6k (if a good synthetic, half that if not).
G
Tech Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,006
Likes: 2
I know of no reason that a xw40 cannot meet the modern specs. M1 0w40 does. QED.
No, M1 0w40 is a good oil,but not one of my preferred ones, for reasons noted below.
I agree that many of the new specs are ill advised. They are designed to promote very long drain intervals, whcih have been proven to not work as intended (Toyota, VW, and Porsche all rescinded theirs after sludge and/or wear issues). Further, the low zddp is intended to reduce damage to the cats. But if a motor does not burn substantial oil, no (well, in practice, minimal) zddp gets to the cats anyway. So that's mis-aimed.
But back to the point, the HM oils are, by definition, aimed at out of warranty cars, and need pay no heed to the specs.
I'll also point out that for wear, the two approvals to look for are:
ACEA A3/B4 - Hths > 3.6, and
Porsche approval, which implies ACEA A3/B4 plus some proprietary wear tests
Finally, all should remember that oil is a large series of trade-offs. Thick (good wear at high temp) is not "good" - rather it favors hard, hot operation over cold flow.
Wide ranges (e.g.: 0w60, 0w40) appear to be best of all worlds, but are not. They require modifiers and break down, creating more sludge producing materials than would otherwise exist, AND shearing to a lower grade - nullifying the reason for their very existence. Pass.
G
No, M1 0w40 is a good oil,but not one of my preferred ones, for reasons noted below.
I agree that many of the new specs are ill advised. They are designed to promote very long drain intervals, whcih have been proven to not work as intended (Toyota, VW, and Porsche all rescinded theirs after sludge and/or wear issues). Further, the low zddp is intended to reduce damage to the cats. But if a motor does not burn substantial oil, no (well, in practice, minimal) zddp gets to the cats anyway. So that's mis-aimed.
But back to the point, the HM oils are, by definition, aimed at out of warranty cars, and need pay no heed to the specs.
I'll also point out that for wear, the two approvals to look for are:
ACEA A3/B4 - Hths > 3.6, and
Porsche approval, which implies ACEA A3/B4 plus some proprietary wear tests
Finally, all should remember that oil is a large series of trade-offs. Thick (good wear at high temp) is not "good" - rather it favors hard, hot operation over cold flow.
Wide ranges (e.g.: 0w60, 0w40) appear to be best of all worlds, but are not. They require modifiers and break down, creating more sludge producing materials than would otherwise exist, AND shearing to a lower grade - nullifying the reason for their very existence. Pass.
G
Trending Topics
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,467
Likes: 0
I know of no reason that a xw40 cannot meet the modern specs. M1 0w40 does. QED.
No, M1 0w40 is a good oil,but not one of my preferred ones, for reasons noted below.
I agree that many of the new specs are ill advised. They are designed to promote very long drain intervals, whcih have been proven to not work as intended (Toyota, VW, and Porsche all rescinded theirs after sludge and/or wear issues). Further, the low zddp is intended to reduce damage to the cats. But if a motor does not burn substantial oil, no (well, in practice, minimal) zddp gets to the cats anyway. So that's mis-aimed.
But back to the point, the HM oils are, by definition, aimed at out of warranty cars, and need pay no heed to the specs.
I'll also point out that for wear, the two approvals to look for are:
ACEA A3/B4 - Hths > 3.6, and
Porsche approval, which implies ACEA A3/B4 plus some proprietary wear tests
Finally, all should remember that oil is a large series of trade-offs. Thick (good wear at high temp) is not "good" - rather it favors hard, hot operation over cold flow.
Wide ranges (e.g.: 0w60, 0w40) appear to be best of all worlds, but are not. They require modifiers and break down, creating more sludge producing materials than would otherwise exist, AND shearing to a lower grade - nullifying the reason for their very existence. Pass.
G
No, M1 0w40 is a good oil,but not one of my preferred ones, for reasons noted below.
I agree that many of the new specs are ill advised. They are designed to promote very long drain intervals, whcih have been proven to not work as intended (Toyota, VW, and Porsche all rescinded theirs after sludge and/or wear issues). Further, the low zddp is intended to reduce damage to the cats. But if a motor does not burn substantial oil, no (well, in practice, minimal) zddp gets to the cats anyway. So that's mis-aimed.
But back to the point, the HM oils are, by definition, aimed at out of warranty cars, and need pay no heed to the specs.
I'll also point out that for wear, the two approvals to look for are:
ACEA A3/B4 - Hths > 3.6, and
Porsche approval, which implies ACEA A3/B4 plus some proprietary wear tests
Finally, all should remember that oil is a large series of trade-offs. Thick (good wear at high temp) is not "good" - rather it favors hard, hot operation over cold flow.
Wide ranges (e.g.: 0w60, 0w40) appear to be best of all worlds, but are not. They require modifiers and break down, creating more sludge producing materials than would otherwise exist, AND shearing to a lower grade - nullifying the reason for their very existence. Pass.
G
AudiWorld Stories
Bringing Audi to Life for Audi Fans
10 Strangest Audi Designs That Actually Made Production
Joe Kucinski
2027 Audi Q7 and SQ7: Audi Upgraded EVERYTHING!
Michael S. Palmer
Audi Unveils Absurdly Cool New Supercar: 10 Things You Need to Know!
Verdad Gallardo
The Highs & Lows of Every Audi C-Class Generation
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Audis Ever Sold on Bring-A-Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Audi Features & Options We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Audi Recreates Crazy-Looking Speed Record Breaker From 1935
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilder Recreates the 1995 Audi TTS Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Every Audi V10 Car Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
Tech Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,006
Likes: 2
I no nothing of it. but for the turbos, the two things to look at are:
1. the flash point (high temp stability), and
2. The long term stability / shear down, which will lower both hths and flash
That's where most non-synthetics fall down. Change more frequently.
Valvoline however has a long history of dealing with turbo cars. Back in the early 80s they had the first turbo specific motor oil, Valvoline Turbo V ( a 15w50 as i recall) designed to have a high temp stability and low incidence of coking.
Of course, its also best to cool down your turbos - then you dont need "superoil".
G
1. the flash point (high temp stability), and
2. The long term stability / shear down, which will lower both hths and flash
That's where most non-synthetics fall down. Change more frequently.
Valvoline however has a long history of dealing with turbo cars. Back in the early 80s they had the first turbo specific motor oil, Valvoline Turbo V ( a 15w50 as i recall) designed to have a high temp stability and low incidence of coking.
Of course, its also best to cool down your turbos - then you dont need "superoil".
G
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA USA
Audi Approved Oil List