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Paint Question
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Paint Question
My car is listed as polar white, but i have had my front bumper and driver mirror resprayed and they look slightly different, a little more off white in the shade. the interesting thing is i had my rear bumper spot fixed and it matches the color of the side panels. i even asked the auto body guys and they showed me the AUDI polar white paint they used the first time i had it done. my question i guess is, is it possible my paint code is wrong? its located int he wheel well corret?
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My car is listed as polar white, but i have had my front bumper and driver mirror resprayed and they look slightly different, a little more off white in the shade. the interesting thing is i had my rear bumper spot fixed and it matches the color of the side panels. i even asked the auto body guys and they showed me the AUDI polar white paint they used the first time i had it done. my question i guess is, is it possible my paint code is wrong? its located int he wheel well corret?
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Olney, MD
White can be a funny color to match...it depends on the primer color as well as air/paint mixture. Put it on a dark primer and it will look different than on a white primer. The pearlescent whites are worse.
OTOH, given today's computer matched paint systems correction for how many years old the paint is, the color gets pretty darned close.
OTOH, given today's computer matched paint systems correction for how many years old the paint is, the color gets pretty darned close.
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i think the issue is that the paint is technically a color clear. i believe they put too many coats on and this it caused the color to shift.
i thought it was a matching issue, but they paint code was identical to my cars so who nkows.
i thought it was a matching issue, but they paint code was identical to my cars so who nkows.
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From: NE Ohio
Could be your finish condition
I'm sure that the paint finish on our cars is base coat "pigment" and clear coat even on non-metalic shades, pearls and irridescent's are a different story.
My knowlede of paint goes way back to my Michigan high school days at our career prep center Auto Body class of two years and three hours a day, of course that was when we did lead finish and sprayed laquer too but the base/clear was new to auto finishes starting into the 80's to current. Also had the chance to work at a Vette restoration shop right out of school stripping/ panel flattening and repainting a 63 roadster and a 67 coup "big block 454" all laquers and clear, after that job I reconditioned cars for four years for a few dealerships using compounds/glazes/sealers/waxes on just about all types of finishes along with spot painting. Dam I'm getting old!
My point here is if your clear coat has hazed or slightly yellowed the best match/mix is the color gun to correct the shade not the factory mix on older cars, I have seen paint guys even match the clear coat to these conditions.
Or you can bust down "re-finish" your clear with a wool cutting pad and compound with a electric polisher and build-up with a soft pad and glaze,
might make a world of difference that you never have seen before with your finish.
My knowlede of paint goes way back to my Michigan high school days at our career prep center Auto Body class of two years and three hours a day, of course that was when we did lead finish and sprayed laquer too but the base/clear was new to auto finishes starting into the 80's to current. Also had the chance to work at a Vette restoration shop right out of school stripping/ panel flattening and repainting a 63 roadster and a 67 coup "big block 454" all laquers and clear, after that job I reconditioned cars for four years for a few dealerships using compounds/glazes/sealers/waxes on just about all types of finishes along with spot painting. Dam I'm getting old!
My point here is if your clear coat has hazed or slightly yellowed the best match/mix is the color gun to correct the shade not the factory mix on older cars, I have seen paint guys even match the clear coat to these conditions.
Or you can bust down "re-finish" your clear with a wool cutting pad and compound with a electric polisher and build-up with a soft pad and glaze,
might make a world of difference that you never have seen before with your finish.
Last edited by jcman; Apr 4, 2012 at 06:27 PM.
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its weird, because the old paint is a bright cool white, the new pain has the slight yellow to it. im not sure about the audi paint but i though the color and the clear were the same. could layering another clear ontop of the audi pain cause it to yellow?
a little back ground, i sprayed my driverside mirror after i broke it. when i first sprayed it with one coat it looked perfect! unfortunately i dropped it, cracked it, and had to fix it up with some bondo. when i resprayed it, i hit it with several coats. could adding more then one coat have caused the yelloing?
a little back ground, i sprayed my driverside mirror after i broke it. when i first sprayed it with one coat it looked perfect! unfortunately i dropped it, cracked it, and had to fix it up with some bondo. when i resprayed it, i hit it with several coats. could adding more then one coat have caused the yelloing?
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From: NE Ohio
Its possible that...
You got some old clear, crap in the spray gun, water from your compressor or cold rated too fast "dry time" reducer trapping humidity or hazing as its called on a hot day, I have found myself a couple of times where the clear was not so clear like water and age will do that or how it's stored, not so clear reducers are good enough for primers and sealers or just cleaning the spray gun.