Cam Seal Job- Need Guidance
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Cam Seal Job- Need Guidance
I am currently doing full timing and seals on my 2.8 A6. I'm pretty sure I made a mistake as I tried to remove the camshaft position sensor bolt with the t-belt off and the force I used to loosen it actually turned the camshaft. I tried to turn it back but it feels like it wont go. I used the locking tool (bar) when I removed the camshaft sprockets, but it was removed when I tried to remove the sensor bolt...Anyway, I have removed the shaft/chain/and tensioner assembly to do the seals(thinking I could just mark the sprockets and rotate the two shafts together, then place back in in the correct position. My question is...Do I need to place the shafts and tensioner assembly back in just as it came out and somehow rotate it until it ends up in the correct position? I was feeling pretty confident about the job until this happened. Any guidance is appreciated. I don't want to do any permanent damage to the motor!
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From: NE Ohio
Important!
At this point the big question would be, did you lock the crank before you started this job?
TB jobs are one of the most posted items here you could just about spend a day and a half reading them.
TB jobs are one of the most posted items here you could just about spend a day and a half reading them.
Thread Starter
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AudiWorld Super User
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From: NE Ohio
Good move..
Now we know the crank is in position, the fact to keep in mind is the camshaft and sprockets mean nothing in their relation when the sprockets are free because the ears of the cam dictate the position when the lock bar is in, large holes inside/small holes outside.
So if you did not turn the cam outside of 20 degrees start with the drivers side cam ear on the bar and lower it counter clockwise the passenger side,
this condition seems to be common with most TB jobs because the tension you feel is a few valve springs.
Thread Starter
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The driver side cam is OK (flat of shaft inward with large hole in ear facing directly inward. The passenger side definitely turned more than 20 degrees when I removed the position sensor bolt.Why 20 degrees?
Thansk for the assistance.
Thansk for the assistance.
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From: NE Ohio
OK
Then given all said, start with the passenger side and lower the cam lock bar down to the driver side.
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Thanks. I'm all square now. used the cam locking bar to align the cam. Thanks for the halp jcman.
Just putting this out there: those shoe pads on the tensioner are a pain to get on. Mine definitely needed replaced as the old ones were quite brittle. Even with the tensioner apart, the new ones come so close but just wont snap into place.It took me about an hour to get those suckers on.
Just putting this out there: those shoe pads on the tensioner are a pain to get on. Mine definitely needed replaced as the old ones were quite brittle. Even with the tensioner apart, the new ones come so close but just wont snap into place.It took me about an hour to get those suckers on.
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A quick question regarding similar steps to this. I was removing the cam sprockets using blauparts instructions and their 3 prong pulley puller. I did not mark on the cam itself before I pulled the sprocket off. I'm not sure if the cam rotated or not, but it seems like it could have right before the puller blasted it off. Is there a way to check if anything went out of whack? I did mark the driver side cam and it didn't move any when I pulled it's sprocket off. This is on a 2000 2.7T if that matters as well.