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aligning camshafts after removal

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:04 PM
  #1  
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Default aligning camshafts after removal

I'm replacing timing belt etc. and valve cover gaskets, cam seals, chain tensioner seal etc. - all the stuff from the Blauparts kit.

Before I get it all apart I'm trying to understand something about the camshafts...if I take them out to replace the seals, how do I keep them aligned? I mean the two camshafts from a single bank. I've read up on other threads and I know I can use the cam locking tool to get one cam into the right position...but how do you make sure the other cam is correctly lined up? Will I need to just make sure the cams don't turn relative to each other once I take them out, or are there marks to get the 'second' cam lined back up?

Or, should I just try to replace all the seals without removing the cams? I do have the special tool to compress the tensioner.

Thanks!I know all this might be obvious when I get to it but I won't be near a computer when I do so I am just trying to be as prepared as possible.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by divil
I'm replacing timing belt etc. and valve cover gaskets, cam seals, chain tensioner seal etc. - all the stuff from the Blauparts kit.

Before I get it all apart I'm trying to understand something about the camshafts...if I take them out to replace the seals, how do I keep them aligned? I mean the two camshafts from a single bank. I've read up on other threads and I know I can use the cam locking tool to get one cam into the right position...but how do you make sure the other cam is correctly lined up? Will I need to just make sure the cams don't turn relative to each other once I take them out, or are there marks to get the 'second' cam lined back up?

Or, should I just try to replace all the seals without removing the cams? I do have the special tool to compress the tensioner.

Thanks!I know all this might be obvious when I get to it but I won't be near a computer when I do so I am just trying to be as prepared as possible.
You don't remove the cams to do the seals. You just remove the seals and install the new ones. For cam tensioner seals, you just compress the tensioner and unbolt it. You have enough room to fish out the seals under the loose tensioner.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
You don't remove the cams to do the seals. You just remove the seals and install the new ones. For cam tensioner seals, you just compress the tensioner and unbolt it. You have enough room to fish out the seals under the loose tensioner.
OK...the instructions I have from Blauparts say to remove them, but if I can do it without removing them that's cool.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by divil
OK...the instructions I have from Blauparts say to remove them, but if I can do it without removing them that's cool.
On the passenger side, you can remove the front cam bearing bridge and get the seals out easier. Same for the driver's side, just at the rear I believe. It's been a while since I've done it, but the cams never need to come out for this job.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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I did it last year on my 4.2 w/o taking the cams out.

It's delicate work under the tensioners--you don't have a lot of room, and you want to make sure to clean out any dirt, old gaskets, sealer, etc. I used carb cleaner and a small wooden popsicle stick to scrape off stuff. Don't want to nick any surfaces under there.

To get to the cam oil seals behind cam sensors, you have to remove the trigger wheel (13mm bolt), but you don't want cams to move. I held the intake cam with a pair of channel-lock pliers between lobes (very carefully, don't want any metal to come off cam). Same for torquing trigger wheel bolt after installing new seal. Be careful with trigger wheel, it bends very easily.

Take your time, be careful, and you'll get it done. Good luck.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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On the 2.8, I remove the cams on the passenger side. I remove the cams with the chain tensioner between them, so chain timing does not change.
To reinstall, just eyeball.

As far as removing the end caps to get to the cam seals and caps, this works well front and rear on both sides.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:10 AM
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Thanks guys. I have a way to go before I get in there anyway. I just started taking the front apart to get access to the belts. Trying to swing the whole front open like a door is a real PITA. But the last time I tried this with the standard service position I damaged some bolts and didn't have enough access to get them out. Now I'm just trying to find a way to support the carrier...it wants to fall out "head first". No doubt I'll be back with more questions before the job is finished.
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