'91 Audi 90 Quattro 20V Update

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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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Default '91 Audi 90 Quattro 20V Update

For the first time in a long time, I've experienced a long streak of consistent progress on my Audi. I started by figuring out that I had two missing fuses for engine timing and replacing them. Then I had to replace the throttle valve potentiometer. I didn't get it on quite right, so I had to take it back off and readjust it, but now it seems to be on right if my understanding is correct. A couple weeks later (this past week), I installed new front sway bar end links which made a huge difference by tightening up the front end a bit and getting rid of clunkiness. Then I tightened the alternator belt which has been squeaking for a while, cleaned the ISV, and took it to a shop to have the exhaust fixed. Turns out I still have a leak at the back of the muffler, but at least the loud leak in front of the catalytic converter is fixed.

So here is a list of things I still need to fix:

Front right wheel bearing
Timing belt
Clicking noise from relay or something
Handbrake
Hydraulic pressure accumulator
Gauge cluster issues (odometer/LCDs)
ABS Sensor

The symptoms I'm experiencing right now include:

-A loud low humming when turning the wheel right at speed (noticeable most on gradual right hand curves). I've never replaced a wheel bearing before, so any advice on that in comments would be helpful. Not completely clueless; just lack of experience.
-I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed. I bought the car two years ago and have never changed it myself. I have never really daily driven the car though either, so it hasn't gone very far. Either way, it needs changed.
-The clicking noise is really random. It doesn't seem to happen for any particular reason or cause any specific problem. It's just a clicking noise almost like a loud turn signal (not the same as the actual turn signal) and it comes from under the dash far to the driver's side. I'm guessing it's a relay cycling on and off quickly or something.
-Handbrake is out of adjustment. I think the springs have seen better days.
-This is a problem I've had for a long time. The brake pedal is sometimes stiff for the first stop or two of a drive. ABS doesn't work. The power steering also has inconsistent assistance. So, possibly the pump but maybe the accumulator as well? Seems like a blip of the throttle can sometimes boost the steering assistance if it gets heavy when driving slowly like in a parking lot. Red "BRAKE" idiot light flickers or stays on most of the time I'm driving.
-The actual gauges on the gauge cluster function just fine, but the clock LCD sometimes isn't illuminated or is dim and the instant MPG readout display is "leaking" or something. I can still read the top half of the numbers, but not the bottom. Also the odometer and trip-meter are currently non-functional.
-ABS idiot light is on steady after a short amount of driving (not immediately upon starting the car). I've never felt the ABS kick in even in snow (but I haven't driven it in snow for well over a year).

Advice, tips, and wisdom are all appreciated. I will respond. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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CV axle, wheel bearing, water pump (for timing belt installation), coolant, Redline MT-90 transmission fluid, Pentosin hydraulic fluid. Wish me luck in being able to get it all done in only two days.
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 11:07 AM
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good luck man ive just replaced 2 front CV axles while doing my clutch/flywheel and im in need of doing my rear right wheel bearing :-(
there is a tool that pulls and presses the wheel bearing in and out, looks like this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262557294.jpg
on the brakes... have you bled them? it sounds like you are enjoying working on this car:-) keep it up man
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Default Re: Driver's side clicking noise from relay or something....

"The clicking noise is really random. It doesn't seem to happen for any particular reason or cause any specific problem. It's just a clicking noise almost like a loud turn signal (not the same as the actual turn signal) and it comes from under the dash far to the driver's side. I'm guessing it's a relay cycling on and off quickly or something."

Absolutely right, my car does this sometimes when the seat heaters are on and the relay for that (same location as above) goes into fibrillation. If I adjust the setting up or down slightly, it settles down into a more steady and un-noticeable operation.

Hope that helps,
Lago
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the replies, guys! Lago Blue, that sounds like a very likely scenario given that I've only noticed it since it got colder and I've had the seat heaters on a lot. What do you think causes it though, the relay or something else? Might just replace it sometime. It makes my wife think the car is crazy.

CRAZY RUSSIAN, I'll probably just take the hub to my local Napa and have them press it out and press the new one in.

Do any of you know of any good write-ups on how to replace the front wheel bearing and CV axle (not expecting to have a write up of them both done at once, but if that exists, awesome!)? I've had a hard time finding a good walkthrough of that. I printed off a couple of instructions for the timing belt and water pump, but nothing for the bearing and axle.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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i dont recall cing a wright up. its all straight forward, jack up car, remove wheel, remove axle bolt, remove tie rod, remove ball joint, remove ABS wheel speed sensor, remove caliper and the bracket that holds the brake line and wheel speed sensor, remove 2 bolts that hold the strut and the wheel hub, remove 6 bolts that hold the axle. assemble in the opposite order, make sure that you use new bolts on the axle
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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Today was an interesting day of working on the Audi. My goals for the day were to change the front passenger-side wheel bearing and front driver-side CV axle. I got the hub off for the wheel bearing and discovered the axle on that side looking like this (compared with the new axle below it). I decided to replace the passenger-side axle instead. The teeth that the ABS wheel speed sensor uses are completely worn away or something. No wonder I've had ABS issues ever since I bought the car.

Last edited by NinetyQ; Dec 5, 2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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WOW... wtf?! are u shure that axle head ABS sensor on it to begin with?
makes me wonder how dose the other side look like?
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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@CRAZY_RUSSIAN, yeah it's ridiculous! I don't know that the axle ever had an ABS tone ring since I've only had the car two years, and it's hardly been on the road in that time (less than 1500 miles anyway). The ABS has never worked for me. Not hard to see why! I'm not sure what the other side's axle looks like yet, but it's on my list of things to replace, so it'll likely come next or at least sometime relatively soon. Wondering if I should replace the bearing on that side. I don't really want to spend the money, but... well, I'll probably just let it go for now.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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I am tackling the front left axle assembly also, since my CV boot ripped.I figured might as well just put in a whole new assembly. Luckily I am going to have two others helping me so I am hoping to knock it out fast.

Did you ever figure out why your odometer and speedometer weren't working?
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