A collection of questions from a new owner!
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AudiWorld Newcomer
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A collection of questions from a new owner!
Hey all!
I'll get right too it, it's a 2.3E 5 cylinder audi 100 CD (c4) from 1992 (non quattro)
The interior fan doesn't blow out any air in the vents on the dashboard that's situated and chest level. When setting the cooling system to blow at the feet and/or windscreen it works fine, but nothing when it's set in the "middle" part. Where could I start searching? I've got a feeling this could be hard to fix.
The cruise control doesn't work. I've just eyed the vacuum line and it looks good, not sure if it's doing anything when pushing the selector though. What could be the culprit? I want to start searching other parts than the leaver.
It's hard to start when i've had a short drive, it starts but seems like it gets drowned in fuel before ignition kicks in and it starts to run. Never has any issues with power from what i've felt. I've heard that it might be the coolant temp. sensor giving wrong values, or perhaps the oil pressure sensor.
Is there any way to adjust the gear linkage? It's very vague and there's a couple of cm of play when you have it in gear (side to side). The only other issue is that it's quite hard to get into 2nd gear in higher speeds (40kmh for ex) so i'm guessing thats a sync ring issue in the gear box or is it a design to prevent any accidental damage?
That's all for now, would be really greatfull for any tips!
I'll get right too it, it's a 2.3E 5 cylinder audi 100 CD (c4) from 1992 (non quattro)
The interior fan doesn't blow out any air in the vents on the dashboard that's situated and chest level. When setting the cooling system to blow at the feet and/or windscreen it works fine, but nothing when it's set in the "middle" part. Where could I start searching? I've got a feeling this could be hard to fix.
The cruise control doesn't work. I've just eyed the vacuum line and it looks good, not sure if it's doing anything when pushing the selector though. What could be the culprit? I want to start searching other parts than the leaver.
It's hard to start when i've had a short drive, it starts but seems like it gets drowned in fuel before ignition kicks in and it starts to run. Never has any issues with power from what i've felt. I've heard that it might be the coolant temp. sensor giving wrong values, or perhaps the oil pressure sensor.
Is there any way to adjust the gear linkage? It's very vague and there's a couple of cm of play when you have it in gear (side to side). The only other issue is that it's quite hard to get into 2nd gear in higher speeds (40kmh for ex) so i'm guessing thats a sync ring issue in the gear box or is it a design to prevent any accidental damage?
That's all for now, would be really greatfull for any tips!
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
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As an UrS owner, (but also having owned an '84 80q and a 200q) I may be able to help you.
1) venting only floor and defrost. One of two things, (1) vacuum leak. Use a vacuum pump (such as a Mity-Vac) to find the leak(s) by sound with the engine off, or starter spray on ALL vacuum related parts with the engine on (it'll speed up or smooth out when you are spraying a leak. A quick test to see if you have leaks before doing anything else is to pull the dipstick while the engine is at idle. If it stalls, your leaks are minimal. If it runs, you have leaks. Go to the "original S-cars" part of this forum to find the link to Scott Mockry's "Secrets of High Boost" webpage. Although your car is not boosted, the principals and tests are still valid. At the age of your car, leaks are not unexpected.
2) no blower motor - also an age/milage thing. Brushes wear out on the blower motor, especially on cars with climate control (runs motor all of the time) usually around 100K miles (160K km). Test is to find the vent hose to the blower motor in the plenum (by the windshield wipers) far left side of the car. It's a 90 degree elbow rubber hose connected to a roughly 3cm cylinder under the plastic cover. Pull hose
1) venting only floor and defrost. One of two things, (1) vacuum leak. Use a vacuum pump (such as a Mity-Vac) to find the leak(s) by sound with the engine off, or starter spray on ALL vacuum related parts with the engine on (it'll speed up or smooth out when you are spraying a leak. A quick test to see if you have leaks before doing anything else is to pull the dipstick while the engine is at idle. If it stalls, your leaks are minimal. If it runs, you have leaks. Go to the "original S-cars" part of this forum to find the link to Scott Mockry's "Secrets of High Boost" webpage. Although your car is not boosted, the principals and tests are still valid. At the age of your car, leaks are not unexpected.
2) no blower motor - also an age/milage thing. Brushes wear out on the blower motor, especially on cars with climate control (runs motor all of the time) usually around 100K miles (160K km). Test is to find the vent hose to the blower motor in the plenum (by the windshield wipers) far left side of the car. It's a 90 degree elbow rubber hose connected to a roughly 3cm cylinder under the plastic cover. Pull hose
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
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from the cylinder and press a pencil eraser into the resultant hole to push one brush against the motor rotor. This often (temporarily) restarts the blower. If this works, a new motor is called for. The motor is cheap, the labor is steep, but it can be done yourself over a weekend.
3) hard starts with fuel smell. Most likely injector leakdown, particularly if hot starts are easy and cold starts require lots of cranking with a lot of raw fuel smell. Can be confirmed using a fuel pressure gauge overnight, they should hold ,most of their pressure overnight. If no, replace the injectors. Can be done yourself, not too expensive.
4) sloppy shifter. Replace the bushings. Cheap.
Good Luck. Bear in mind this is a 23 year old car, and at this age, if it hasn't been carefully looked after this is likely par for the course.
3) hard starts with fuel smell. Most likely injector leakdown, particularly if hot starts are easy and cold starts require lots of cranking with a lot of raw fuel smell. Can be confirmed using a fuel pressure gauge overnight, they should hold ,most of their pressure overnight. If no, replace the injectors. Can be done yourself, not too expensive.
4) sloppy shifter. Replace the bushings. Cheap.
Good Luck. Bear in mind this is a 23 year old car, and at this age, if it hasn't been carefully looked after this is likely par for the course.
Audiworld Junior Member
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From: Norway
I suppose this is the Scott Mockry writeup. (It didn't surface well on google for me.) SJM Autotechnik, Audi Technical Service Repair Information
Audiworld Junior Member
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Yes. Go thru EVERYTHING suggested to "set the car up" for raising boost pressures. No, you aren't doing any boost work, but it's a thorough guide to getting a 10V I-5 into prime running shape. Yes, there are differences between your 2.3 and the 2.22 MC's, but the basic principles are there
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I've found, well, something at least. I'm not sure, but shouldn't these holes be connected with a vacuum line? Check the pics below!
PS; the second picture, the fitting is towards the firewall, quite hard to see but you can if you look close!
PS; the second picture, the fitting is towards the firewall, quite hard to see but you can if you look close!
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
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The top picture could be an air temp sensor..white line is a metered vacuum to pull air across the sensor..input for the climate control. Or..it could be the vacuum switch for the heater valve..can't tell.
The bottom picture is the vacuum switch for the outside air recirculation flap..two hoses and an (both vacuum switches) open third port to dump the vacuum when the vacuum switch is turned off..and allows the recirculation flap to open and allow outside air into the cabin.
The bottom picture is the vacuum switch for the outside air recirculation flap..two hoses and an (both vacuum switches) open third port to dump the vacuum when the vacuum switch is turned off..and allows the recirculation flap to open and allow outside air into the cabin.
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Yep, checked out another audi from the same year, it had the same setup so that gave me nothing :P
But, I need to fix the cruise control, I can't really see if the vacuum part works since you need to be driving over 30km/h and well, I won't do that with the hood up :P
How does one go about in trying to see where the error is ? The stalk , i've heard, is a usual culprit but a bit of a mess trying to get at it, no?
But, I need to fix the cruise control, I can't really see if the vacuum part works since you need to be driving over 30km/h and well, I won't do that with the hood up :P
How does one go about in trying to see where the error is ? The stalk , i've heard, is a usual culprit but a bit of a mess trying to get at it, no?
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