Quattro not working (fwd not working)
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
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From: Southern Indiana
Quattro not working (fwd not working)
Front wheel drive is not working. I have a rubber grinding noise from the rear end when I take off. I can hear and feel it anytime I let out the clutch and going slow. Once going a few mph the noise is gone. While trying to figure out the issue I pulled the haldex fuse out and wanted to try moving the car to see if noise is gone. Now I have now power. I can hear the Trans or whatever spinning but nothing to the wheels.
So I have
1. Noise in rear end under take off
2. No fwd
So I have
1. Noise in rear end under take off
2. No fwd
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
Your post makes no sense. You say FWD is not working, but you say you get a noise from the rear when you take off, release the clutch, and going slow. The TT is basically a FWD car with a haldex in slippery / hard driving conditions, so it wouldn't move if you had a front end driveline issue. Post again and be more precise.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Southern Indiana
My front end is not working. If I remove fuse for the haldex the car does not move. The front is not grabbing somehow. I think the noise in the rear is just a sticking caliber. So my only issue now is the front end not working.
I understand how the quattro system works. I don't understand how the Trans is not grabbing for the front wheels.
I swapped motors a while back. I changed the Trans fluids well.
When the car is put into gear and the clutch is let out you can hear that the front is not engaging!
The Trans was in perfect working order when the motor went out. I swapped the motor with another audio to motor.
I understand how the quattro system works. I don't understand how the Trans is not grabbing for the front wheels.
I swapped motors a while back. I changed the Trans fluids well.
When the car is put into gear and the clutch is let out you can hear that the front is not engaging!
The Trans was in perfect working order when the motor went out. I swapped the motor with another audio to motor.
Last edited by mikemounlio; Jul 25, 2016 at 07:09 AM.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Southern Indiana
If I have the haldex fuse in the car can drive but only rear wheels are under power. The front end has no power! Something is wrong. I would think it has something to do with the fluid change. I did nothing else to it.
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Several years ago a forum member in the NE had a similar problem. It turned out to be stripped splines in a CV joint. A new axle fixed it. It seems that the driveline control engages the Haldex clutches as if it were sensing wheel spin at the front. Regardless of the reason SOMETHING is broken in your front drive and it has to be in an axle or a stubshaft. The rear drive you are getting indicates that the transmission and differential are connected and being driven by the engine.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Southern Indiana
So i found out that the new front axle i put in is not right. I did something wrong. The axle does not grab. Its all bolted down but sounds like its just slipping on the inside on the joint that botls to the car. Will have to pull it out and see what i did wrong.
Still have a rear end noise tho. I have changed the brakes front to back top to bottom. With the tires in the air the noise is not there. If the car is on the ground i have a bad noise as i take off. I put some pressure on the e brake and took off and the noise sounded about the same (which is why i bought all new brakes). I can tell now that the noise is in the center section (diff). I swapped out the motors. I had the rear shaft off for months. COuld the shaft just not be tight to the trans and letting it grab or something?
Anyway. Ill look at the front end tonight. What about my rear end noise tho. Its just just i let the clutch out and in the rear.
The front is not working right now so could that be why i have rear noise? The system is overloaded! maybe
Still have a rear end noise tho. I have changed the brakes front to back top to bottom. With the tires in the air the noise is not there. If the car is on the ground i have a bad noise as i take off. I put some pressure on the e brake and took off and the noise sounded about the same (which is why i bought all new brakes). I can tell now that the noise is in the center section (diff). I swapped out the motors. I had the rear shaft off for months. COuld the shaft just not be tight to the trans and letting it grab or something?
Anyway. Ill look at the front end tonight. What about my rear end noise tho. Its just just i let the clutch out and in the rear.
The front is not working right now so could that be why i have rear noise? The system is overloaded! maybe
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Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Southern Indiana
So i found out that the new front axle i put in is not right. I did something wrong. The axle does not grab. Its all bolted down but sounds like its just slipping on the inside on the joint that botls to the car. Will have to pull it out and see what i did wrong.
Still have a rear end noise tho. I have changed the brakes front to back top to bottom. With the tires in the air the noise is not there. If the car is on the ground i have a bad noise as i take off. I put some pressure on the e brake and took off and the noise sounded about the same (which is why i bought all new brakes). I can tell now that the noise is in the center section (diff). I swapped out the motors. I had the rear shaft off for months. COuld the shaft just not be tight to the trans and letting it grab or something?
Anyway. Ill look at the front end tonight. What about my rear end noise tho. Its just just i let the clutch out and in the rear.
The front is not working right now so could that be why i have rear noise? The system is overloaded! maybe
Still have a rear end noise tho. I have changed the brakes front to back top to bottom. With the tires in the air the noise is not there. If the car is on the ground i have a bad noise as i take off. I put some pressure on the e brake and took off and the noise sounded about the same (which is why i bought all new brakes). I can tell now that the noise is in the center section (diff). I swapped out the motors. I had the rear shaft off for months. COuld the shaft just not be tight to the trans and letting it grab or something?
Anyway. Ill look at the front end tonight. What about my rear end noise tho. Its just just i let the clutch out and in the rear.
The front is not working right now so could that be why i have rear noise? The system is overloaded! maybe
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Replace transfer case if you can verify that neither FWD output "cup" is rotating yet the rear driveshaft is. Put Car up on four jacks/jackstands or hoist.
To replace; Transmission has to be removed. Might be easier to remove engine & Trans as a unit.
See here for some pics: Not easy to diagnose remotely. I don't think the timing belt can be thrown by one tooth. There are too many teeth that would have be thrown on either toothed wheel.
You can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Then you can move the crankshat to the TDC position and see whether the camshaft toothed wheel "dot" aligns with the mark on the valve cover. Service manual required or good luck with a free youtube video which I wouldn't trust.
I'm going with either a cracked piston skirt or a snapped connecting rod bolt. You have some time before disaster strikes with those. But fair warning, these things won't heal themselves.
Check our what a snapped connecting rod bolt can cause:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-...story-2901563/
To replace; Transmission has to be removed. Might be easier to remove engine & Trans as a unit.
See here for some pics: Not easy to diagnose remotely. I don't think the timing belt can be thrown by one tooth. There are too many teeth that would have be thrown on either toothed wheel.
You can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Then you can move the crankshat to the TDC position and see whether the camshaft toothed wheel "dot" aligns with the mark on the valve cover. Service manual required or good luck with a free youtube video which I wouldn't trust.
I'm going with either a cracked piston skirt or a snapped connecting rod bolt. You have some time before disaster strikes with those. But fair warning, these things won't heal themselves.
Check our what a snapped connecting rod bolt can cause:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-...story-2901563/
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Southern Indiana
Timing is just fine. The car starts idles and drives good. Its the rear end noise that im worried about. I did try and remove the transfer case when i was having issues getting the trans back on. I could have it back together wrong! When i tried to pull it apart i could not get it. Like it has a special screw on the inside that i couldn't get to or something.
My main concern is the rear end noise. Why do i have it now and not before the motor swap? It sounds like the brakes dragging but with the rear in the air i get no noise when i let the clutch out. Its only with the cars weight do i get the noise. It could be a binding bushing noise or something like that. I bounced on the car and could hear no noise. Its only when letting the clutch out and power goes to the rear that the noise happens.
My main concern is the rear end noise. Why do i have it now and not before the motor swap? It sounds like the brakes dragging but with the rear in the air i get no noise when i let the clutch out. Its only with the cars weight do i get the noise. It could be a binding bushing noise or something like that. I bounced on the car and could hear no noise. Its only when letting the clutch out and power goes to the rear that the noise happens.
Replace transfer case if you can verify that neither FWD output "cup" is rotating yet the rear driveshaft is. Put Car up on four jacks/jackstands or hoist.
To replace; Transmission has to be removed. Might be easier to remove engine & Trans as a unit.
See here for some pics: Not easy to diagnose remotely. I don't think the timing belt can be thrown by one tooth. There are too many teeth that would have be thrown on either toothed wheel.
You can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Then you can move the crankshat to the TDC position and see whether the camshaft toothed wheel "dot" aligns with the mark on the valve cover. Service manual required or good luck with a free youtube video which I wouldn't trust.
I'm going with either a cracked piston skirt or a snapped connecting rod bolt. You have some time before disaster strikes with those. But fair warning, these things won't heal themselves.
Check our what a snapped connecting rod bolt can cause:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-...story-2901563/
To replace; Transmission has to be removed. Might be easier to remove engine & Trans as a unit.
See here for some pics: Not easy to diagnose remotely. I don't think the timing belt can be thrown by one tooth. There are too many teeth that would have be thrown on either toothed wheel.
You can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Then you can move the crankshat to the TDC position and see whether the camshaft toothed wheel "dot" aligns with the mark on the valve cover. Service manual required or good luck with a free youtube video which I wouldn't trust.
I'm going with either a cracked piston skirt or a snapped connecting rod bolt. You have some time before disaster strikes with those. But fair warning, these things won't heal themselves.
Check our what a snapped connecting rod bolt can cause:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-...story-2901563/