I decided to perform the first oil change on my RS3 at 600 miles since this is the first interval listed in the manual for break-in. I will likely do my second around 1,500-1,600 miles.

Yes, I know this is far earlier than the recommended 10,000 miles or year from Audi, but IMHO clean oil is the key to engine longevity and there isn't really a downside to frequent oil changes (aside from wear and tear on belly pan fasteners).
Unfortunately the oil filter housing on the 2018 RS3 is located on the underside of the engine so to change the oil filter the car needs to be lifted and belly pan removed.

Here’s what you need to do a complete oil change.
Consumables
Oil Filter: VW 06D115562 ($10-16)
Crush Washer: VW N0138495 ($2)
Drain Plug: VW N91167901 ($2)
8 quarts Oil that meets Audi Oil Quality Standard VW 502 00 ($50)

Tools
Jack / Ramps / Stands
8 Quart drain pain / Oil extractor
Torx bits/wrenches - T25 and T45
VW Oil Filter wrench
Optional – VW oil filter drain tool

Warm up the engine slightly so that the engine oil flows freely.

LIFT CAR
Place the car securely on ramps or jack stands. There are arrows on the side skirts that show where on the inner body it’s safe to jack. I like to use a block of wood between my jack and the body mount.

REMOVE BELLY PAN
Once securely the air you can remove the belly pan. It is secured by 7 Torx 25 screws and 3 Torx 45 bolts. The smaller T25 screws are located 3 across the side of the pan on either side and 1 securing the pan at the front. Once you remove the 7 T25 screws you can remove the 3 T45 bolts that secure the back of the belly pan. Once those have been removed the pan should fall away from the bottom of the car with just two tabs at the front holding it on. Press the tabs to disengage and pull the pan free.

DRAIN OIL
Once the belly pan is free you can drain the oil. First loosen the fill cap on the top of the engine to allow air to enter the engine. Remove the oil drain plug and let the oil drain(careful it’s warm and can splash). I used an oil extractor (Mityvac 7300 PneumatiVac Air-Operated Fluid Evacuator) from the dipstick tube. It was able to remove 7 quarts and when I pulled the oil pan drain plug it was bone dry. Once oil pan is empty wipe off any excess and replace with a new plug and washer, be careful tightening as the oil pan is aluminum.

CHANGE FILTER
The oil filter is around the front of the engine, between the block and radiator. I would recommend purchasing a VW oil filter drain tool, as it allows you to drain the oil from the canister without a mess. There’s a small cap on the bottom of the housing that unscrews and exposes a spring loaded drain nipple. I didn’t have the tool and just spun the housing off and oil dripped everywhere around the block and pan. Also after the fact I watched a YouTube video that showed someone pressing on the drain valve with a screw driver and draining the filter. It was probably a little cleaner than just spinning off the filter. Removing the oil filter drained another quart of oil from the system. Once the filter housing is off remove the old filter, replace and lubricate the rubber gasket/o-ring, and put in a new filter (make sure to press the filter all the way into the housing). Once the filter has been replaced tighten the housing back onto the block.

REFILL SYSTEM
Refill the engine with 7.5-8 quarts of VW specified oil.

CHECK FOR LEAKS
Once engine has been filled look for leaks. Then start engine let run for a min or so and check for leaks again. If it’s all still dry button it all up.





Overall at 600 miles the bulk of the oil looked clean without any metallic shimmer. Then when I removed and drained the oil filter canister I saw quite a bit of silver and copper metallic particulate. Looks like the oil filter has been filtering as designed, but I’m happy to have removed all of that particulate from the engine.

 

The sticker under the hood of the RS3 specifies to use 504 or 502 spec oil. I'd highly recommend using 504 - it's a newer, tougher standard that gives better protection than 502, and is better compatible with direct injection fuel systems.

 

So the car is not shipped with "break in oil" from the factory? Have you verified that?

 

What 504 oils do peole here on the board use and average costs?

Here's the Audi TSB on oil.
Audi Oil Quality Standards

And a quote:I have done a fair amount of research on this subject and "...504 - it's a newer, tougher standard that gives better protection than 502..." can you give me a little more detail around this statement? It is a newer standard, but "better" seems to be up for debate based on cycle interval and quality of gas...

I'd like to use the best possible for my vehicle and if someone could convince me that was the best 504.00 I'd use it. Anecdotally, it seems like 504 could be better for very long change intervals (longer than the fixed intervals that Audi mandates), and may be more emissions friendly, but 502 could be better for fixed interval and high sulfur gas.

At the moment I will be changing my oil on extreemly short intervals to flush particulate matter from the engine so the cheaper 502 oils will be fine but I may switch to the more expensive 504 in the future but I'm still not totally convinced.

Here are a few threads about 502/504 from "the" oil site on the web.

2017 very Pro 504 asside for US sulfer gas

2016 discussion indifferent

From 2009 - pages and pages

By the way the oil debate is never ending. :-)

 

Use the oil with the less sulfur gas to help mantain the cylinder plasma coating.

 

I've read a LOT over the years on appropriate oils for direct injection engines, going back to prior to my purchase of a 2010 Audi S5 with the DI 4.2 V8. The best source on the subject of 502 vs 504, technically, is actually Lubrizol, maker of chemical additives. To answer a couple of your questions -

504 oils - Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 is available from several vendors up here in Canada, including NAPA and Canadian Tire. I buy Castrol Professional SLX Longlife III 5W30 from the Audi dealer - both VW and Audi stock this, Audi uses is as standard here in the R8s but still wanted to use their bulk 502 Castrol in my S5... I always specified for them to use the SLX LL III on my oil changes (under Audi Care), I paid the small cost difference for the better oil. I also changed the oil myself, mid-service interval, using the same SLX LL III.

Better specs for 504 - 504 was designed specifically for direct injection engines and is a low SAPS EURO-IV oil, and is also lower volatility - this is very critical for DI engines where intake valve deposits can be a big problem, and part of those deposits is oil vapours that get through the PCV system and deposit on theback of the intake valves and don't get washed down by solvent (ie port fuel injection). The lower volatility of 504 vs 502 means lower amounts of oil vapours making it through the PCV system - Lubrizol testing in around 2006 showed intake valve deposits in DI engines were reduced by 40% by using a low volatility low SAPS EURO-IV oil. THAT is important and worthwhile!

My old links are all broken, but I found this again - Lubrizol's online Relative Performance Comparison Tool for Passenger Car Specifications: https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

On the left side, you can check the specifications you want to compare, from all their testing of the different specification oils - select VW 50200 (2005) and VW 50400 (2012). You'll see that they are about equal performance on Soot Thickening and Oxidative Thickening, close (with the advantage to 504) on Piston Deposits and Sludge; and that 504 has a huge performance advantage in Wear, AFtertreatment Compatibility, and Fuel Economy.

504 also specifies lower ash levels (the 'A' part of SAPS), which contributes to the better wear performance - but is preferred with ultra low sulfur fuels as are common in Europe and less common in North America. That, and the lower TBN for 504 oils, means that they are not preferable for longer extended OCI - so especially if you run shorter OCI, then 504 is definitely the better oil spec all around.

 

Hey guys. Sorry to revive old threads, but it seemed relevant. Can someone tell me if this oil is OK to use in the RS3? It says its VW 504 00 certified, but its not on the "Audi approved list."

Oil:
RAVENOL J1A1520 VMP 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil (5 Liter)

Audi list: https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-1.22.2018.pdf

 

Guys,

I and a buddy of mine in San Antonio, Texas are both going to have our Audi Dealerships change the Oil & Filter at 1,000 miles.
We both agreed that will be a good point for the engine to have gone and the end of the Break-in-Period.
I do-not know the cost but I want to do it just for peace-of-mind.

Terry

 

I have a question. I was considering using 504 spec oil due to its higher efficiency and properties, however I do plan to run e20-e30 on a mild tune (built for that blend). I'm aware low sap oils like 504 don't do well long term with ethanol, but it question is, if I plan to change every 5k, would I still be able to enjoy the mild benefits of using 504 over 502? I know I probably can't goto 10k miles, but perhaps 5? Or just goto 502?

 

If you want to know all about oil, check our the "Bob the oil guy" website... 8 qts! that's a surprise.

I tend to like Motul 8100 in the stuff I'm worried about.